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H190 diff limits


andys320

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Diffs are rated by how much torque they can handle. H-190 is just under 300 pound feet.

 

diff inches max. torque capacity

H145 5.71 ~100 lb. ft.

H150 5.91 ~125 lb. ft.

H165 6.50 ~225 lb. ft.

H190 7.49 ~285 lb. ft.

R200 7.88 ~300 lb. ft.

Ford 8.00 ~325 lb. ft.

Ford 8.80 ~500 lb. ft.

Ford 9.00 ~600 lb. ft.

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depends on how wore out the diff is to begin with. I've busted 9 inch fords with 300hp engines if H-190 parts were avalible you would see more people NOT swapping them out and using them as their a strong diff (truck ones are) I dont think you can even buy a new ring and pinion for them anymore.

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I think its a very conservative list. People are putting twice that through r200's just fine. Its kind of relative though, I bet 200tq could blow anything on the list if the idiot driving burns out all the time and blows a spider gear. Used properly even twice that power and slicks wont break a r200 though. 

Blowing a 9 inch with 300tq? I never even heard of that before. 

motivator1789543.jpg

 

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I dont have a lot of power, and my spiders are welded up ( the first thing that usually breaks) , but I leave at 7k with the pedal mashed. I broke the driveshaft, 1st gear in the trans, and the trans mount. 60 plus passes and the diff is fine. And as you can see, it hooks.

 

 

 

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More than 1 lol ? Pictures ? How lol

worn out diffs man, swap meet parts etc it happens. shredded a 9 inch once turning a corner and the roll pin broke and the spider gears collapsed into each other. parents race car is 650hp with dutchman axles and the splines have started to twist on those. popped a few dana 44 axles destroyed 12 bolt chevys. busted input shafts off of datsun trannys with a built lz 2.2 shit breaks when ya use it hard or abuse it lol

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I dont have a lot of power, and my spiders are welded up ( the first thing that usually breaks) , but I leave at 7k with the pedal mashed. I broke the driveshaft, 1st gear in the trans, and the trans mount. 60 plus passes and the diff is fine. And as you can see, it hooks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

sweet what engine ya runnin?

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Ya looks like it hooks alright. I think you made people nervous with that tire warm up haha

Ah ya well again relativity, abuse lowers ratings lol. tq limits on a dif are new and ready to go though not after a lifetime of abuse and god knows what from po's. 

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]

worn out diffs man, swap meet parts etc it happens. shredded a 9 inch once turning a corner and the roll pin broke and the spider gears collapsed into each other. parents race car is 650hp with dutchman axles and the splines have started to twist on those. popped a few dana 44 axles destroyed 12 bolt chevys. busted input shafts off of datsun trannys with a built lz 2.2 shit breaks when ya use it hard or abuse it lol

:rofl: ... that sucks and ya sound like my old buddy lol :D

 

I've heard that about shortened axles :(

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My old buddy raced the shit out of everything in american muscle (he could get his hands on lol) is what I meant nothing more.

 

Somehow I read "shortened dutchman axles" not "dutchman axles"

 

Case hardening makes a difference. That's what I was implying without having to spell it out.

 

My bad

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He has no turbo, and his best run this year was 14.53, just shy of 90mph as I recall.

 

 

That is correct. U67 head with stock Z valves. Delta .490x.290 cam, shitty shorty header and 40 DCOE's, Really just a bunch of leftover shit I had laying around. Getting a bit more serious now.

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The reason I'd love to stick to a standard length diff axle is due to the cost of cutting a diff down is to much ie. cutting it down isn't an issue it's the axles, getting them re splined, they won't have there original case hardening strength and every time I brake an axle ill have to cut it down then get it re splined, I don't need a 9 inch I'm aiming for 350-400hp I'm thinking a run the standard diff ill just give it a new set of bearings and a lap maybe. Thanks for your help guys

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I posted this in another thread the other day, so I'll just copy and paste here.

 

 

If you are worried about breaking stuff, do this.

 

IMG_1895.jpg

 

Plumb a line lock into your clutch hydraulics and put a bypass line with a valve like this. ( $27.00 mcmaster carr)

 

IMG_1897.jpg

 

Wire the line lock to a momentary switch so it is only activated when held in 1st gear.

 

IMG_1900.jpg

 

So now when it's in 1st, you can control the flow, and soften the hit. Now you can leave on the rev limiter with the pedal mashed and nothing goes KABOOM.

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The reason I'd love to stick to a standard length diff axle is due to the cost of cutting a diff down is to much ie. cutting it down isn't an issue it's the axles, getting them re splined, they won't have there original case hardening strength and every time I brake an axle ill have to cut it down then get it re splined, I don't need a 9 inch I'm aiming for 350-400hp I'm thinking a run the standard diff ill just give it a new set of bearings and a lap maybe. Thanks for your help guys

 

Depends on the axleshaft one more reason I narrow Toyota diffs. Dutchman even said what I thought was true. Toyota 4x4 axle have a deep hardnening process when they respline my shafts their still hard. They said the import shafts have always been good quality.

One reason maybe ya don't see to many of them fail. I've never seen a broken Toyota rear shaft. Or a h-190 shaft outta a truck broken. I have seen broken GM axles broken mopar axles, and a narrowed 9 inch axle cause.they cut past the case hardening.

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There are 4+ ? or so ratsun members here that I remember reading saying they were tired of scraping multiple h190's (within weeks) behind stock to mild 327-355 sbc datsun 620 conversions. Power was around 300-350 that I remember. I have no idea the condition of them beforehand. It's nice to have less parastatic drag and less un-sprung weight though. I personally have no experience with this swap , but this is something to keep in mind :) .

 

The case hardening is what I was referring to earlier on shortened axles and why I choose against shortening my 8.8 (don't want to upgrade axles , locker/carrier yet either until car is done). I've talked to dutchman as well as I live 15 minutes from them.

I've seen a handful of yota diffs gone to poop on the R&P (keeping in mind all R&P wear out).diff condition does matter. All elements and engineering originally incorporated matter.

Lower gear ratio (numerically higher) from my understanding will also play a huge role in twist occuring atm when the tires hook.

 

I'm not a pro , engineer or dedicated racer though so I won't pretend lol

Idk if you're runing a wider torque curve and don't lose your mind it might be fine.(as opposed to a stock sbc curve in general)

 

Cheers

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