A10's U-nite !!!!

[robopineapple]

I have two hoses thag have been hanging around for forever.. one runs down to a hardline pretty close to tje one pivtured. could that be it,

[datsunfreak]

Also, for those not wanting to run the bypass, every L/Z engine uses that same lower radiator hose outlet. But they don't all have that bypass tube. Some just have the rear-facing heater hose pipe.  ;)

 

Get one of those and you don't need the butt plug. 

[datzenmike]

Also, for those not wanting to run the bypass, every L/Z engine uses that same lower radiator hose outlet. But they don't all have that bypass tube. Some just have the rear-facing heater hose pipe.  ;)

 

Get one of those and you don't need the butt plug. 

.

The problem with that, is the loss of the heated/cooled intake. (if you have one... only the '75-'77 L20Bs didn't) At the least you should have the thermostat by pass. The thermostat housing is NOT inside the motor but outside the head. The water surrounding the thermostat is stagnant and not moving. The engine is heated up but the water around the thermostat is colder. It relies on convection for the heat to warm it up. The by pass constantly circulates some water past the thermostat so it can sample it. Without the by pass the thermostat is way behind the motor in reacting to temp changes.

[datsunfreak]

Not saying it's a good idea, mind you...   ^_^

[datzenmike]

Ah. Yes some did not have this but probably relied on a jiggle valve in the thermostat. Basically a controlled leak that allowed coolant to flow past the thermostat. The by pass hose is much better.

[4thgearcruisen]

Drill hole in thermostat. Hope that didnt blow your mind.

Im an engineer, trust me.

[bananahamuck]

Drill hole in thermostat. Hope that didnt blow your mind.

Im an doctor, trust me.

 

 

 

 

From 1983 ,,, the last year Datsuns were Datsuns

[robopineapple]

Well considering i was over heating with no thermostat, i dot think ahole is going to help jhaha. and all that other stuff was like jibberish to me...

[datsunaholic]

Overheating with no thermostat is common- flow is too fast, so the water never has time to pick up heat from the engine, so the metal parts get way hotter than the water.

[datzenmike]

How is that possible?

 

I've heard the same with rads, flowing too fast to cool the water. Makes no sense to me.

[datsunfreak]

How is that possible?

 

I've heard the same with rads, flowing too fast to cool the water. Makes no sense to me.

 

If the water is not in contact with the radiator long enough, it cannot transfer it's heat to the radiator, then out to the ambient air. 

 

Consequently, if the engine is not in contact with the water long enough it cannot transfer it's heat to the water. 

 

Make sense? 

[mhub91]

Taking my A10 to U.P. Garage here in Tacoma, WA in the next few weeks to have Doug fab up a trans mount and make me a driveline!

[datzenmike]

If the water is not in contact with the radiator long enough, it cannot transfer it's heat to the radiator, then out to the ambient air. 

 

Consequently, if the engine is not in contact with the water long enough it cannot transfer it's heat to the water. 

 

Make sense?

 

Not one bit of sense.

 

Find your hot water heater and turn on the hot kitchen and bathroom taps and the shower. Grab that copper pipe and try to hold onto it. It will be every bit as hot as when you turn the taps off and have only one on at a trickle. 180 degree water is 180 degree water no mater how fast it's traveling. If it's in contact with something it will transfer heat at the same rate.

 

 

 

Here's another...

 

You are the hot engine and the electric fan is the coolant. On a hot day you turn the fan to high speed and you feel cooler than on low speed. More air draws away more heat, simple as that.

[q-tip]

Indeed.

 

What we are trying to say is that if the coolant flows thru the radiator too quickly the heat cannot dissipate heat because it is going back into the hot motor and getting hotter.

 

If the coolant flows thru the engine too quickly it cannot accumulate the heat and thus does not cool the engine.

 

Not saying that heat isn't transfered in either case just saying its not enough.

[datzenmike]

Rubbish!! It's all rubbish!!!!

 

Lets say that 10 gallons flow through the rad in one minute and the the temp in is 180 and the temp out is 179.

 

Now you increase the flow to 100 gallons per minute. The temp out is 179.9 degrees. It looks like the water wasn't cooled as much but it did, over the 90 extra gallons. At least the same amount of heat was removed but it's a smaller drop over a larger amount.

 

In fact I bet increasing the flow actually removes more heat than slower flow. Here's why. Heat transfers faster the larger the difference in temperatures. An example... you heat a paper clip to 2500 F... glowing white hot and take the flame away it immediately cools through red hot (1200F) in a second or two. Same paper clip in boiling water takes a few seconds to cool 100 degrees to body temp.. The point is the the larger the temp difference the faster it will try to equalize.

 

Now the rad with the slow flowing water. Goes in at 180F comes out at 179F. The bottom of the rad is about 179F. The faster flowing rad is going to be 179.9F at the bottom. A higher temp is going to radiate more because of the higher temp difference.

 

A faster flowing rad is going to be hotter.

[Fat510]

[datsunfreak]

In fact I bet increasing the flow actually removes more heat than slower flow. 

 

You'd lose that bet.   B)

 

Why did BRE put restricters in the lower radiator hose? Because at the RPMs they were running the water moved through the radiator too fast to actually cool off. The restriction (slowing the flow down) made the car run cooler than it could at max flow. 

 

If the water is not in the radiator long enough to transfer it's heat to the radiator, it goes back into the engine at a higher temp. 

[robopineapple]

i simply cant figure my shit out, i havnt been driving in fear of ruining my new head gasket... so here is how my story goes so hopefully you guys can help me out. i feel like a tard btw.

 

so i took my 510 from everett to salem oregon, with a couple out of the way stops. so lets say a 600 mile round trip in two days. the whole time i had zero problems, didnt get anywhere near hot the whole time and i drove hard the whole time, 90+ mph majority of the time. 

about a week later my brother and i take a trip down to the local pick and pull like usual in my wagon because more space for more parts. i get home and when i take the key out of the ignition it decides to diesel for a good ten seconds because i had no idea what to do. lots of steam comes from the engine bay once it stops and it dumped coolant everywhere. since then i was killing it with the clutch because it is still trying to diesel every time. blah blah blah i started to notice i weird almost a gurgling or buzzing noise when i would accelerate, but only at the beginning of acceleration. i thought it wasnt a very big deal, but it just so happen to be the noise being made after i blew my head gasket every time i tried to press the gas on the freeway. anyways, some time after i noticed it dieseling it started to over heat, probably a couple weeks. cant really remember how long it was. 

i then replaced my lower radiator hose because its where i thought the steam was coming from and it seamed to work for a couple days, then right back to over heating. i made the mistake of chasing some pussy down to seattle and thats when i over heated... oh what i will do for some tail. she actualy ended up using AAA to tow my ass home  :rofl:

blah blah blah got everything put together and had spudly come over to figure some stuff out to get it back on the road. the weird buzzing gurgling noise that i mentioned ealier is gone now, but im over heating worse then before. thats when i noticed that plug was busted. i also noticed that i never had a thermostat. so i got a 180 degree thermo and replaced the plug as a temp thing. ill go out and try to find some hoses that i can use for the bypass. any ideas of where i can get one? 

i find it very hard to believe that that once hose is the problem though considering it wasnt there before and the car made the 600 mile round trip just fine. i dont think its the radiator cause water is clearly moving because that but plug was just pissing water every time i stopped the car. 

the thing with my temp gauge is that it will slowly go through the cold section, which is small. then once it hits the "middle" area which is most the gauge, it races through that super fast. like two minutes out of the cold section its already hitting the small hot section... 

 

Literally nothing has been going right for me the last couple of months and its really putting me in the dumps, then having to keep asking for help and not being able to figure out my own problems makes me so ashamed of myself. my motto is "shit happens" haha but i can only say it so many times in a row before i start saying "why the fuck is it me again?!" karma is a bitch i guess. Sorry all of that was off topic, just ranting now.

 

ANYWAYS, if y'all have any ideas or solutions please let me know. make it easy for a nub (me) to read haha, pictures of the ideal cooling set ups would be ideal. thanks for helping and putting up with me guys. 

[Fat510]

wow thats shitty dude. maybe its time for L20?  :lol:

 

so you said you put a thermostat in, it gets hot faster than if you dont? and have you replaced your water pump?

[mhub91]

Gurgling noise. Did you bleed the system? I'm available weds thurs and Friday if you would like some help this coming week

[datzenmike]

The fact that it did not have a thermostat tells me a previous owner was trying to solve a pre existing condition by removing it. Any car with a missing thermostat probably has a heating issue. All motors no matter how built-up should work just fine with a thermostat. If not, you have too small a rad or some other cooling problem.

 

With the thermostat in, the engine is over heating but the gauge has stagnant cooler water around it and so reads slowly through the cold range. When it finally opens the super heated water rushes past it and the temp sender rockets to the top. This is why you need the bypass connected, so that the thermostat opens as soon as the motor is warmed up.

 

You can drill a 1/16" hole in the thermostat, (or get one with a giggle valve) not the best but it will work. Or get the by pass hose working. You still have an over heating problem though but your gauge will now be reading correctly what the engine is doing temp wise.

 

Now this is not likely the reason you are over heating as once the thermostat opens it should stabilize.

 

Very unlikely air is trapped as the L series thermostat is mounted vertical. As soon as it opens the first time air can get up and out to the rad.

[robopineapple]

wow thats shitty dude. maybe its time for L20?  :lol:

 

so you said you put a thermostat in, it gets hot faster than if you dont? and have you replaced your water pump?

its already a l20 lol. it gets hot just as fast as before with the thermo in, just the gauge reads differently. i havnt replaced the water pump yet.

 

The fact that it did not have a thermostat tells me a previous owner was trying to solve a pre existing condition by removing it. Any car with a missing thermostat probably has a heating issue. All motors no matter how built-up should work just fine with a thermostat. If not, you have too small a rad or some other cooling problem.

 

With the thermostat in, the engine is over heating but the gauge has stagnant cooler water around it and so reads slowly through the cold range. When it finally opens the super heated water rushes past it and the temp sender rockets to the top. This is why you need the bypass connected, so that the thermostat opens as soon as the motor is warmed up.

 

You can drill a 1/16" hole in the thermostat, (or get one with a giggle valve) not the best but it will work. Or get the by pass hose working. You still have an over heating problem though but your gauge will now be reading correctly what the engine is doing temp wise.

 

Now this is not likely the reason you are over heating as once the thermostat opens it should stabilize.

 

Very unlikely air is trapped as the L series thermostat is mounted vertical. As soon as it opens the first time air can get up and out to the rad.

i will do the bypass when i can find a hose for it, half inch should do i think. once i get the gauge working properly what would be the next thing to check? 

[bananahamuck]

You say it doesn`t over heat at  high freeway speeds but does puttering around town ,, my guess would be the fan clutch..

 

 

Maybe get one of these but test it on other engines to get a feel of readings it is giving because ,,, made in China... That way you could pop hood and instantly compare what your running as compared to what your gauge is reading.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-infrared-thermometer-with-laser-targeting-69465-8905.html

[datzenmike]

Simple. With engine off spin the fan blade. It should be very firm to turn with a finger and should not spin loose when you stop pushing. For most speeds above 20-35 MPH (depending on engine load) you don't even need a fan. The vehicle motion pushes air through. For extra cooling climbing hills at lower speed or idling in traffic a fan is needed. If very loose the special silicone oil inside has leaked out.

 

Over heating causes to think about can be narrowed down to mechanical, poor air flow or poor coolant flow.

 

Mechanical

Ignition retarded. More waste heat is absorbed by coolant around the exhaust ports.

Lean mixture. Improper jetting. Idle mixture if at idle.

Brakes dragging

Improper anti freeze/coolant mix .

Bad rad cap

Blown or blowing head gasket.

 

Poor air flow

Shroud missing. Nothing increases air flow efficiency like a shroud.

Missing skid pan under rad. Similar to shroud.

Dirt, bugs, leaves, plastic bag blocking air flow through rad.

Excessively slipping clutch fan.

Loose or glazed fan belt.

 

Poor coolant flow

Sticking thermostat or wrong heat range.

Soft lower rad hose collapses from water pump suction at high revs.

Inner rad core is plugged with hard water (scale) deposits. Use distilled water.

Sediment in coolant passages in block from not running anti freeze/coolant.

[robopineapple]

i will admit that i brought the wagon to a shop today for a diagnostics... because i was desprite for my baby back. all they had to say is that they think that it i might have a warped head or bent or cracked or whatever. they wanted $1000 to do what i literally just did lol i told them to not touch my car anymore. they said that if i wanted to do it myself, i can bring just they head in and they will inspect it closer and fix whats wrong for $125. should i go for the second option? or try to work around and have my fingers crossed that they are just pulling my legs