alexmeans Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 No sorry yeah it would be an LZ.. I I was going to put a Z24 crank into the L20 and bore the block to 89mm Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 Mike, what makes the L20 slant? It is not the crossmember in the A10..... I'm almost positive the L20 slants due to the horns that are actually on the block? . As far as I can see the cross members are exactly the same. Hell the L20B and the Z20 series motors are actually almost identical, just the position they sit is different. The engine is positioned in place by those engine brackets between the rubber isolator and the block itself. There is a longer driver's side and a shorter pass side bracket, and the block between them is tilted exactly 12 degrees to the right. The L tranny mounting bolts are arranged so that the transmission is properly upright and the oil pan on the bottom, level with the road. Same with the engine oil pan. Level to the road and slightly tilted to meet the block. Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 Ah, you're right. After putting some thought into It I remember that the metal brackets between isolators and block are different lengths. Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 (Please be advised.. opinionated statement to follow) Why are we all caught up in underhood labels lately ?? If it has a label on the outside with 510 printed on it it makes it a 510 ,,, albet a newer 510 but a 510 none the less.. Example: It`s like anyone under the age of 25 thinks it's their civic fucking dutie to HAVE to call a corolla a E-31, Ae86 or a TE87 or some other super secret fanboi type label.. I have at present time and have owned many more Toyotas than most of them will even own cars,, or even work on in a year... :rofl: And i'm going to call my 1976, 1977 1985, 1986, 1987, 19861/2 , and 1988 Toyotas i currently own,,,,,,,,,, celicas MR2s and supras respectively not some underhood nomenclature that is the newst internet fad.. Thank you. Signed Father of a 1979 510 owner 2 Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 And yes i have been missing the Breaking Bad maration on AMC dealing with people i would probably strangle in real life,,, on Craigslist this morning!!! :wacko: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 (Please be advised.. opinionated statement to follow) Why are we all caught up in underhood labels lately ?? If it has a label on the outside with 510 printed on it it makes it a 510 ,,, albet a newer 510 but a 510 none the less.. Thank you. For the same reason a North American sedan shouldn't be called a coupe. They are not the same and saying coupe (unless it really is an imported 2 door, right hand drive coupe) is just confusing and thus wrong. Saying 510 automatically defaults to the original '68-'73 pl510. Signed Father of a 1979 510 owner Now this is correct. Stating the year qualifies it as an A10 or later HL510. The under hood 'label' avoids ambiguity. Saying you own a 200sx isn't enough either. They were made for over 10 years with 3 generations and 5 series of motors. S10, S110 and S12. They 'morphed' into the 240sx (S13 and even the S14). Just like the A10, a later FWD 200sx was also offered, being a badged Sentra. By no stretch of the imagination was it (other than the badge) a 200sx. (end counter rant) Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 I understand where you're coming from Hamuck, but with so many different models it's easier to just say TE-72, A10, S12, S13, etc... Easier to know exactly what someone's talking about when they identify their chassis! Quote Link to comment
alexmeans Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 So it won't work. Alright I'll leave my engine alone. Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 Frankly, if you're going to upgrade go for awesomeness! Go with a CA, KA, or even a VG! Quote Link to comment
robopineapple Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 So a guy called me yesterday and offered me a l18 with around 120k miles on it. i believe he said he wanted $150... i think i might have to go get it if thats true Quote Link to comment
alexmeans Posted December 28, 2013 Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 That's how much this L20b is going to cost me. And only $300 to get the race cam, and stroker parts. 1 Quote Link to comment
alexmeans Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 How much would a LZ 2.4 stroker with a 1500-5500rpm; Adv. Dur. 268 Int./Exh.; Valve Lift .42 Int./Exh.; Lobe Angle 110 degree Cam make horspower wise with a aftermarket 3 inch exhaust. If anyone has any good thought since I'm noob and curious. Not looking to make alot like alot of people but wouldn't mind making more then I'm aiming for.. Aiming for atleast 100HP to the wheels. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 The stock Z24 make more than that and 130 torque!!! A Z22 with an L series head would make about 115. Probably more with a larger carb. Don't get carried away looking for a cam. Generally the more cam the less drivable it will be. Better to have too little and want more than to have too much and want less. Big cams are like high maintenance girlfriend. Great when flat out but a total bitch to live with the rest of the time. Quote Link to comment
alexmeans Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 That actually made the most sense.. High Maintenance... What type of cam would be recommended? Not really caring about Drivabillty anymore then it's going to be an all around car, Rally,Race,Road so what ever will help blend... More then 130Tq? Dang.. so would I be looking about what 120Hp? and more in torque out of the Z20/Z24 Stroker? I'm putting an L head on it and going to Cam it.. But mainly for breathability... SO any help would be accepted.. And appreciated.. Quote Link to comment
Fat510 Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 You need to research more Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 THIS 1 Quote Link to comment
alexmeans Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 But that would render you God's useless Quote Link to comment
alexmeans Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 And that there isn't really much info at all. Because that's all I do is try and look around for info and every time I come up with something and ask that's all I really get is I need to research more. Haha bout as helpful as my gym teacher calling me fat, we all know it but no one help advise how to start losing it. Haha Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 So a guy called me yesterday and offered me a l18 with around 120k miles on it. i believe he said he wanted $150... i think i might have to go get it if thats true If it comes with a flywheel ,, because your 6 bolt one won't fit on a 5 hole engine.. Contact Dillion or Frank or Logical1 in Everette ( i don't know what the first twos screen names are off hand ) At franks yard sale some guy there,, had a L20b that was supposedly a running take out,, It had everything ,,carb, distributor, the whole shittery.. Tristen or Datwifey might have their numbers but i can't find it right now.. They were asking $500. but i don't know anything about how well it ran as it was already in the back of a pick-up truck Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 :ninja: wire all the things 1 Quote Link to comment
alexmeans Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 Looks beast Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 But that would render you God's useless OK You have a... Z20(S) or carburetor motor. Which is basically an L20B with a cross flow head (carb and exhaust on opposite sides) on it that is leaning to the left or driver's side to allow the intake and carb room on the right or passenger side. The easiest swap is another Z series motor as it will fit your application and transmission. They are.... Z20E same motor as what you have now but with fuel injection. About 95 hp Z22E a 2.2 liter motor also with fuel injection. Both motors are from the early '80s S110 200sx car. About 105 hp Z22S a 2.2 liter motor but with carburetor from the early '80s 720 truck. About 105 hp Z24S a 2.4 liter motor but with carburetor from '83-'86 720 truck. About 110 hp All these will swap in with some small mods. You will need your car oil pan if using the truck engines. Some wiring and the high pressure fuel pump for the fuel injection engines. All Z series are low pollution engines and thus were designed to run at normal highway speeds and make good power/torque there. Because of this the head could be designed to do it's job without the thought of future performance development. Port angles are poor and valves will touch if there is too much lift. It's not easy to add performance to them. On the pluss side, they have hemispherical combustion chambers and dual spark plugs. These two engines will actually bolt to your transmission having the same mounting angle as your Z20, however they make 50% more power so the transmission should be changed, requiring the drive shaft to be shortened and the engine and trans mounts modified as well. They are also a much more complicated fuel injection system. KA24E a 2.4 liter motor with 3 valves per cylinder found in the early S13 car and D-21 truck. 145 hp KA24DE a 2.4 liter dual cam 4 valve per cylinder found in the S14 and the D-21 truck. 155 hp LZ motors The idea here is to get rid of the Z series poor flowing non performance head and convert them for use with the higher potential L series head. This will require the motor to be leaned over to the right to allow intake and carb clearance on the left side. With the engine repositioned into an L series configuration the following must also follow... An L series transmission must be used also. The oil pan changed to a L series. Timing chain cover and all timing chain parts forward of the block changed to L series to match the L head. If using a Z24 block which is 3/4" taller the top of the timing cover must be welded or modified to seal. An L series intake and exhaust manifold and down pipe added. Quote Link to comment
Fat510 Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 OK You have a... These two engines will actually bolt to your transmission having the same mounting angle as your Z20, however they make 50% more power so the transmission should be changed, requiring the drive shaft to be shortened and the engine and trans mounts modified as well. They are also a much more complicated fuel injection system. KA24E a 2.4 liter motor with 3 valves per cylinder found in the early S13 car and D-21 truck. 145 hp KA24DE a 2.4 liter dual cam 4 valve per cylinder found in the S14 and the D-21 truck. 155 hp The dual cam is also found in the S13. S13s had an optional single or dual cam Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 S13 KA24E '89-'90 S13 KA24DE '91-'94 S14 KA24DE '95-'98 The first built year ('88) of S13 actually had different internals and had a raised compression ratio, but nissan changed it after a short amount of time. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 The dual cam is also found in the S13. S13s had an optional single or dual cam . yes, I think that's right. :blush: Perhaps a changeover year? S13 KA24E '89-'90 S13 KA24DE '91-'94 S14 KA24DE '95-'98 The first built year ('88) of S13 actually had different internals and had a raised compression ratio, but nissan changed it after a short amount of time. . Yes the first three months of '89 production was 9 to 1 compression. The pistons were different with a slight dome in them. Later ones were 2.8cc 'dish'. Quote Link to comment
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