Weber 38/38 adapter?

[LenRobertson]

I did some searching, but the answer isn't jumping out at me. Does the 38/38 Weber use the same adapter to an L-series manifold as the 32/36 uses? How about the aircleaner? Same as the 32/36 version? Any difference in height between the two different carbs that would cause a hood clearance problem on a 510 with L20b? I've never seen a real live 38/38. They look different enough from a 32/36 that I have no idea if the top and bottom are the same size.

 

Len

[Zeusimo]

I Believe They Are Exactly The Same

[Zeusimo]

I Believe They Are Exactly The Same

[datsunaholic]

1) Bottom base pattern is exactly the same.  Barrel holes are bigger.  Generic adapters are usually big enough for both.  Some are port-matched to the 32/36, which would be small for the 38.

 

2) Carb overall height is the same as a DGV

 

3) Air cleaner mount on a 38DGAS is the same as a 32/36 DGV/DGAV/DGEV but not the same as a 32/36 DFAV.

[LenRobertson]

Okay, thanks for the replies. I figured this was something everyone knows but me. Somehow the 38/38 in pics always looks way bigger to me than the 32/36, so I had to know for sure. Every so often a 38/38 shows up locally, but I didn't know if I'd need to buy another adapter for $35 or so.

 

I'm afraid my Hitachi 340 is winning the battle. I guess it wants to go into the dead Hitachi pile with all it's friends. If I take it off and put a kit in, it would probably behave, but if I take it off, I'll probably rebuild a 32/36 Weber to put back on. The 38/38 is kind of a fantasy that may turn into an impulse buy if I stumble onto one. Knowing I don't need a different adapter will make it much easier to give in to the impulse.

 

Len

[Sealik]

Hmmmmmm.....Looks like the 38 is a tad shorter???

I could measure....but....

 

 

 

The Redline adapters are the same for the 32/36 and 38

[LenRobertson]

I don't think I've ever seen a side-by-side pics of the two. I just checked CL and the 38/38 that was on there for $150 for several days is gone. But I'll be ready the next time one shows up. Chances are the 32/36 will be just fine for me anyway.

 

Len

[bananahamuck]

That seems a little over carbureted to me ,, maybe if it was a 4x6,  but even then, off the line performance for that type of lumber might suffer...

[Sealik]

That seems a little over carbureted to me ,, maybe if it was a 4x6,  but even then, off the line performance for that type of lumber might suffer...

 

 

Some guys are running 38s on their L20Bs.....they say it's a worthy swap, excellent performance upgrade.

They might be surprised though when they put a wide band on it and see some numbers, which... is all relative to how the 'used' carb is jetted and or.

 

Specific kits from Redline are jetted for the size of engine....not sure about the L20B app

[LenRobertson]

Some guys are running 38s on their L20Bs.....they say it's a worthy swap, excellent performance upgrade.

They might be surprised though when they put a wide band on it and see some numbers, which... is all relative to how the 'used' carb is jetted and or.

 

Specific kits from Redline are jetted for the size of engine....not sure about the L20B app

Yeah, that is my main hesitation in getting a 38/38 - having to dick around with the jetting when there may not be much info around for that app on an L20. I'm so slow working on anything it would take me forever to figure it out myself, unless I found a post giving exact numbers for jets. I don't know how much (if at all) carb jetting is affected by altitude. I'm at about 2200 feet here in the sticks. Maybe the 38/38 jetting that works great at sea level in Cali wouldn't be good for here. When I get everything else right on the 510, then maybe that would be fun to play with. Of course it is easy to say I don't really want a 38/38 now that I know the one on CL is sold. If it was still available, I'd probably be rationalizing how I can't live with out it!

 

Len

[banzai510(hainz)]

a 38/38 is the simplest upgrade in power even over a header. esp for a L20. Just L20s seem to have all that nasty emission shit on that intake/nasty exhaust manifold also.

there is a 32/36 sync linkage so the 32/36 opens up like a 38/38.

best to open up the manifold or the carb adapter to get a little more air i there.

[Sealik]

 

best to open up the manifold or the carb adapter to get a little more air i there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Not perfect....but a definite improvement

[hobbes_the_cat]

Like banzai said, there is a kit for converting a 32/36 from progressive to synchro operation and I noticed a difference in off the line performance with my old L18 that had a ported head and offy manifold. Good option if you can't find/afford a 38/38.

[Sealik]

Like banzai said, there is a kit for converting a 32/36 from progressive to synchro operation and I noticed a difference in off the line performance with my old L18 that had a ported head and offy manifold. Good option if you can't find/afford a 38/38.

 

Yeah.....I was looking at them.

But.......... for 50 bucks plus shipping.....I bought a 38

Can always use another carb...... :D

 

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails2.asp?utm_expid=10520551-6&RecID=6942&utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.ca%2F

[banzai510(hainz)]

good photos of the match porting and carb adapter

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

there is a 32/36 sync linkage so the 32/36 opens up like a 38/38.

 

I would actually run the progressive linkage even on the 38/38. Better economy and the same performance. It all depends on how quickly you mash the skinny pedal.

[hobbes_the_cat]

Yeah.....I was looking at them.

But.......... for 50 bucks plus shipping.....I bought a 38

Can always use another carb...... :D

 

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails2.asp?utm_expid=10520551-6&RecID=6942&utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.ca%2F

Yeah they are pricey and I probably wouldn't spend that kind of dough on it myself, but I have a homemade one that came on a parts carb and it works great

 

I would actually run the progressive linkage even on the 38/38. Better economy and the same performance. It all depends on how quickly you mash the skinny pedal.

I am not sure but I have never seen a progressive conversion for the 38/38. That might have to be a custom job. If economy means anything to you I would stay away from the 38/38 anyway.

[bananahamuck]

Some guys are running 38s on their L20Bs.....they say it's a worthy swap, excellent performance upgrade.

They might be surprised though when they put a wide band on it and see some numbers, which... is all relative to how the 'used' carb is jetted and or.

 

Specific kits from Redline are jetted for the size of engine....not sure about the L20B app

 

 

I was just being a knucklehead,, and making fun of your hot rodded out Canadian saw horse.... :lol: :lol:

 

That`s why a said 4x6 because the 2x6 you were running them on seem to small...

 

Im soory

:rofl:

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I am not sure but I have never seen a progressive conversion for the 38/38. That might have to be a custom job. If economy means anything to you I would stay away from the 38/38 anyway.

 

If you had a donor 32/36 and some time, you most certainly could make it work.

 

Back to my motto: Anything can be built with a pile of cash and a welder.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I agree about the 38/38 though, if economy is your schtick, go 32/36.

[ggzilla]

Specific kits from Redline are jetted for the size of engine....not sure about the L20B app

-------

 

No they are not. L16/L18/L20B all use the same air/fuel ratio of 12:1 to 14.7:1. The main tuning difference would be the accelerator pump and the emulsion tubes, but Weber just jets them all somewhat rich so they work well on any stock engine (but fuel economy is not optimal). Only their "smog legal" kits (no longer offered) were fine-tuned for specific engines.