VintageRice Posted December 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 fully agree. i have been going there since i was a little guy and he has always been there with the same classical music playin. Holy crap another Arlington, wa 510 ! Horray! What car is yours? Have I seen you around? Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 i am just down jordan rd closer to the granite side. Quote Link to comment
Rustina 510 Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Forward this to tristangrind Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted December 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Forward this to tristangrind you. :P Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Look... I'm just a machinist... I don't know what you expect me to do about... Oh wait. :rofl: So are people looking for sets? - is that the gist of what's going on in here? Quote Link to comment
D52E Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 But with the tires already being to close to the footwell (only made worse by a severely lowered car), wouldn't it be better to add caster by pulling the bottoms forward? Good point. That would be something to take into consideration vehicle by vehicle depending on your particular combination of wheels/tires and ride height. It would not be a one size fits all. For my combination I will be using adjustable T/C rods but I wouldn't mind some increased caster from the upper mount moved rearward. One other relatively low cost alternative would be 240SX camber plates. Cheap eBay ones can be found for about $75. Its not as resourceful as making your own steel plates for $20 but they do have an integrated bearing. Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted December 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Good point. That would be something to take into consideration vehicle by vehicle depending on your particular combination of wheels/tires and ride height. It would not be a one size fits all. For my combination I will be using adjustable T/C rods but I wouldn't mind some increased caster from the upper mount moved rearward. One other relatively low cost alternative would be 240SX camber plates. Cheap eBay ones can be found for about $75. Its not as resourceful as making your own steel plates for $20 but they do have an integrated bearing. Same bolt pattern as 510? Quote Link to comment
D52E Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 yes, they have the same 3 bolt pattern. Here is a picture of mine: Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Good point. That would be something to take into consideration vehicle by vehicle depending on your particular combination of wheels/tires and ride height. Yes, but if your car is low enough, and the tires are the right diameter, they rub. :rofl: At stock ride height the TC rod goes from a high point (radiator support) to a low point (LCA). When you lower the car even a little bit, it flattens out. Thus making it effectively longer. And it pushes the wheel back, into the footwell. If nothing else, this needs to be addressed just to maintain something akin to the stock geometry. :thumbup: Tilting the top back, while increasing caster, doesn't address the "problem". Quote Link to comment
HudsonMC Posted December 3, 2012 Report Share Posted December 3, 2012 Yes, but if your car is low enough, and the tires are the right diameter, they rub. :rofl: At stock ride height the TC rod goes from a high point (radiator support) to a low point (LCA). When you lower the car even a little bit, it flattens out. Thus making it effectively longer. And it pushes the wheel back, into the footwell. If nothing else, this needs to be addressed just to maintain something akin to the stock geometry. :thumbup: Tilting the top back, while increasing caster, doesn't address the "problem". On a 510, I almost feel like there's no such thing as too much caster with a mostly stock front suspension and fenderwells. I think most folks max out in the 5°-6° range. Vintage, why not do both? Quote Link to comment
RedBanner Posted December 3, 2012 Report Share Posted December 3, 2012 Becouse the grant steering wheel adapter can't take it :( Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted December 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2012 On a 510, I almost feel like there's no such thing as too much caster with a mostly stock front suspension and fenderwells. I think most folks max out in the 5°-6° range. Vintage, why not do both? Cause drilling round holes is ez. Slots are not. Quote Link to comment
RedBanner Posted December 3, 2012 Report Share Posted December 3, 2012 Drill 2 sets of holes instead of a slot? Then its got 2 castor settings. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted December 3, 2012 Report Share Posted December 3, 2012 On a 510, I almost feel like there's no such thing as too much caster with a mostly stock front suspension and fenderwells. If you spend enough time on a track with high speed sweepers, you wouldn't think that. But few 510 owners do, so... ^_^ "Too much" caster means when the wheel is turned, the contact patch gets smaller. Look at 80s/90s Mercedes (which run a shit ton of caster) when the wheels are turned all the way. Almost looks like it's laying the tire on it's sidewall. :o Quote Link to comment
HudsonMC Posted December 4, 2012 Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 If you spend enough time on a track with high speed sweepers, you wouldn't think that. But few 510 owners do, so... ^_^ "Too much" caster means when the wheel is turned, the contact patch gets smaller. Look at 80s/90s Mercedes (which run a shit ton of caster) when the wheels are turned all the way. Almost looks like it's laying the tire on it's sidewall. :o Depends on how much static camber you run. If you've got too much static camber, as you turn the wheel and the body rolls, then yeah, it's possible that it could be too much. One of the major benefits of caster, in addition to the steering feedback, is the camber gain with steering angle. This allows you to run less static camber. This can reduce camber thrust, improve straight line braking, etc. With anything, yeah, you can overdo it, but 5° of caster isn't all that extreme IMHO. Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 i ran 5 degrees of caster on my 4 door it was awesome i loved how stable it felt on the free way Quote Link to comment
HudsonMC Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Now that I think of it, John, I think you and I have had this conversation before. Via email in response to a bb list post I think? I don't remember what we came up with though... Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Now that I think of it, John, I think you and I have had this conversation before. There is no telling... :rofl: Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted December 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 Got these in the mail, went to napa got two big washers the size of the stock 510 tophat bearings, used the washers between the bearings and the tophats just for more surface area contact. Didnt like that small area of the top of the top hat riding on the plastic part of the bearing. All together, went for a test drive and it seems alot more stable driving down the road and also more responsive. Seems to want to center itself better now rather than pulling one way or the other. Best part is my front is no longer higher than the rear. Looks and rides great. I just hope the rigidly mounted struts hold up. Think they will though. Quote Link to comment
ssnapz Posted December 29, 2012 Report Share Posted December 29, 2012 drill the hole in your plate bigger and run the stud bushings for a sock. that should give you the flex you need for a couple bucks. Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted December 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2012 drill the hole in your plate bigger and run the stud bushings for a sock. that should give you the flex you need for a couple bucks. What bushings? Post pic of what you mean. I shud get something in there. Quote Link to comment
graveltrapp Posted December 30, 2012 Report Share Posted December 30, 2012 Maybe just having the hole in the plate a few thousandths over would allow for the strut to move a bit without it binding or rattling. Skateboard truck bushings or generic swaybar bushings might be trimmed to fit.? Keep us up on this, I like where your going. Quote Link to comment
ssnapz Posted December 30, 2012 Report Share Posted December 30, 2012 using my phone so pain to post pics, but the shocks that have a stud at the end. they run a washer, rubber, mounting point, rubber, washer, then nut. my rear shocks on my 720 run them on the bottom mount. can someone post a pic for me please. it looks like a cheap easy fix, my favorite type Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted December 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2012 Ok i get what your sayn' Quote Link to comment
ssnapz Posted December 31, 2012 Report Share Posted December 31, 2012 good cause to post a pic i have to type out the link myself, no paste with phone on this forum. last time took me 4 trys and someone else to do it for me. and as cheap as you made those you could do 2 more, a degree more and less, adjustable. just swap plates. i love the idea of your camber plates Quote Link to comment
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