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Weird noise from belhousing/engine? with vid


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Actually if a 225mm or 240mm collar was used the release bearing would be further from the fingers because they are shorter than the 200mm collars. The clutch would have trouble disengaging. When the peddle is all the way down the release bearing wouldn't be close enough to the diaphragm fingers.

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Actually if a 225mm or 240mm collar was used the release bearing would be further from the fingers because they are shorter than the 200mm collars. The clutch would have trouble disengaging. When the peddle is all the way down the release bearing wouldn't be close enough to the diaphragm fingers.

 

there are different 200mm clutch depths. the old clutch was 200mm as well.

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the 510 200mm is the same diaphrame height as a Roadster so a 510 T/O bearing and collar is all that is needed.

 

a 200sx 200mm 77-79 does have a different diaphrame height so I dont know if they use a different T/O bearing collar.

Asssume here is were the Slave cyl rods lengths can cause proplems.Being to short or to long using the 200sx 5speed NON hole fork arm,Unlike the 510 trans Fork arm has a hole and can be adjusted alot better.

 

225mm for sure is different T/O bearing and sleeve length.

 

however you sue the trans and engine bolts are tight? I had them come loose 2 times and all lossen up.

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OK, I pulled the starter and swapped it with another good one, checked the trans to motor bolts and they're tight, and turned to motor over without trying to start it. While it turned over I heard a heavy clunk, clunk, clunk, out of the bellhousing. I tried to move the flywheel while the starter was out and it didn't move, but maybe that wasn't the side that came loose. Guess I have to pull the trans, I just don't see how the flywheel could have come loose when I took such care to torque the bolts to spec.

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OK, so I pulled the trans and the flywheel WAS loose. Half the bolts were finger tight and 1 was backed out a few threads. I am POSITIVE I torqued them to spec at install so should I use loc-tite on them this time? What color should I use? I don't want to mess with this again. On a similar note while checking everything out I noticed that my front crankshaft pulley bolt was loose too, should I loc-tite that as well? Are the torque specs wrong in the Haynes manual?

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Crazy man, the motor spins in a direction that would make the crank pulley bolt tighten down....

 

Blue loc-tite works fine. Just a little, not a lot lol. Idk what could have happened, ive never done them to spec with a torque wrench, and none have ever fallen apart.

 

 

**edit

 

In the past i just put a socket on the crank pulley, then wrenched the flywheel bolts down... Rustina is still cruising in the wagon we did this on in my driveway, last winter, cold as f*ck, in the dark... :rofl:

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Possibly? But i haven't heard or seen any other high compression motor / owners saying my shit came loose. (then again, i don't really read up on high compression L series motors) On that note, crank pulley spins in the direction to tighten the bolt... Try the blue loc-tite stuff on the flywheel bolts.

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Flywheel bolts are 101 - 116 ft lbs. You are sure that you have the correct bolts? Auto and standards use different lengths as do the L16 and L20B

Crank pulley bolts are 87 - 116 ft lbs.

5 of the bolts I used were from my old L18/standard and one came from Datdoug, I think he said was a L20. They all looked the same and threaded deep. are L18 bolts the same as L20b?

 

Check your torque wrench for calibration. (if clicker)

engine shouldn't vibrate much at all high compression or not.

I used a bar type torque wrench as I was unsure if my clicker was accurate.

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I hit mine with the impact and call it good, never had any come loose to date.

It's good you figured it out before anything was damaged. :)

Yeah I am happy nothing got messed up. I picked up some lock-tite and borrowed my dads impact. I'm going to put it back together as soon as i find out if i'm OK using the bolts I currently have. They seem like the right ones...

Anyway I noticed a stress crack on the throwout fork while everything was apart so I had a local welder run a little bead on it. I don't want to pull this thing apart for a while.

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