datzenmike Posted November 3, 2012 Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 Unless someone changed the release collar, the dogleg was only ever used with a 200mm clutch. If you used your 510 collar that would be fine too. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 3, 2012 Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 If it is a TO bearing, quit running it, as it can smoke your roadster cover fingers also. Quote Link to comment
hobbes_the_cat Posted November 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 The issue I ran into was the dogleg came to me with a wasted T/O collar so I needed a new one. The pressure plate that was being used with the dogleg when I got it was not as deep as the roadster unit so I bought a thinner collar to compensate for the thicker/deeper roadster pressure plate. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 3, 2012 Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 Actually if a 225mm or 240mm collar was used the release bearing would be further from the fingers because they are shorter than the 200mm collars. The clutch would have trouble disengaging. When the peddle is all the way down the release bearing wouldn't be close enough to the diaphragm fingers. Quote Link to comment
hobbes_the_cat Posted November 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 If it is a TO bearing, quit running it, as it can smoke your roadster cover fingers also. It's not my daily so I won't drive it. as a matter of fact I let it sit for almost two weeks and when I started it this happened. Quote Link to comment
hobbes_the_cat Posted November 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 Actually if a 225mm or 240mm collar was used the release bearing would be further from the fingers because they are shorter than the 200mm collars. The clutch would have trouble disengaging. When the peddle is all the way down the release bearing wouldn't be close enough to the diaphragm fingers. there are different 200mm clutch depths. the old clutch was 200mm as well. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 3, 2012 Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 It's not my daily so I won't drive it. as a matter of fact I let it sit for almost two weeks and when I started it this happened. Pull the starter. Pull the starter.... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 3, 2012 Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 the 510 200mm is the same diaphrame height as a Roadster so a 510 T/O bearing and collar is all that is needed. a 200sx 200mm 77-79 does have a different diaphrame height so I dont know if they use a different T/O bearing collar. Asssume here is were the Slave cyl rods lengths can cause proplems.Being to short or to long using the 200sx 5speed NON hole fork arm,Unlike the 510 trans Fork arm has a hole and can be adjusted alot better. 225mm for sure is different T/O bearing and sleeve length. however you sue the trans and engine bolts are tight? I had them come loose 2 times and all lossen up. Quote Link to comment
hobbes_the_cat Posted November 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 OK, I pulled the starter and swapped it with another good one, checked the trans to motor bolts and they're tight, and turned to motor over without trying to start it. While it turned over I heard a heavy clunk, clunk, clunk, out of the bellhousing. I tried to move the flywheel while the starter was out and it didn't move, but maybe that wasn't the side that came loose. Guess I have to pull the trans, I just don't see how the flywheel could have come loose when I took such care to torque the bolts to spec. Quote Link to comment
hobbes_the_cat Posted November 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 OK, so I pulled the trans and the flywheel WAS loose. Half the bolts were finger tight and 1 was backed out a few threads. I am POSITIVE I torqued them to spec at install so should I use loc-tite on them this time? What color should I use? I don't want to mess with this again. On a similar note while checking everything out I noticed that my front crankshaft pulley bolt was loose too, should I loc-tite that as well? Are the torque specs wrong in the Haynes manual? Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted November 8, 2012 Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 Crazy man, the motor spins in a direction that would make the crank pulley bolt tighten down.... Blue loc-tite works fine. Just a little, not a lot lol. Idk what could have happened, ive never done them to spec with a torque wrench, and none have ever fallen apart. **edit In the past i just put a socket on the crank pulley, then wrenched the flywheel bolts down... Rustina is still cruising in the wagon we did this on in my driveway, last winter, cold as f*ck, in the dark... :rofl: Quote Link to comment
hobbes_the_cat Posted November 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 I'm confused too, only thing I can reckon is this motor is high compression and vibrates a ton, maybe that's why everything is coming loose. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted November 8, 2012 Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 Possibly? But i haven't heard or seen any other high compression motor / owners saying my shit came loose. (then again, i don't really read up on high compression L series motors) On that note, crank pulley spins in the direction to tighten the bolt... Try the blue loc-tite stuff on the flywheel bolts. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 10, 2012 Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 Flywheel bolts are 101 - 116 ft lbs. You are sure that you have the correct bolts? Auto and standards use different lengths as do the L16 and L20B Crank pulley bolts are 87 - 116 ft lbs. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted November 10, 2012 Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 Check your torque wrench for calibration. (if clicker) engine shouldn't vibrate much at all high compression or not. Quote Link to comment
hobbes_the_cat Posted November 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 Flywheel bolts are 101 - 116 ft lbs. You are sure that you have the correct bolts? Auto and standards use different lengths as do the L16 and L20B Crank pulley bolts are 87 - 116 ft lbs. 5 of the bolts I used were from my old L18/standard and one came from Datdoug, I think he said was a L20. They all looked the same and threaded deep. are L18 bolts the same as L20b? Check your torque wrench for calibration. (if clicker) engine shouldn't vibrate much at all high compression or not. I used a bar type torque wrench as I was unsure if my clicker was accurate. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 10, 2012 Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 I hit mine with the impact and call it good, never had any come loose to date. It's good you figured it out before anything was damaged. :) Quote Link to comment
hobbes_the_cat Posted November 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 I hit mine with the impact and call it good, never had any come loose to date. It's good you figured it out before anything was damaged. :) Yeah I am happy nothing got messed up. I picked up some lock-tite and borrowed my dads impact. I'm going to put it back together as soon as i find out if i'm OK using the bolts I currently have. They seem like the right ones... Anyway I noticed a stress crack on the throwout fork while everything was apart so I had a local welder run a little bead on it. I don't want to pull this thing apart for a while. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 10, 2012 Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 I think you need to find out if you have the correct bolts for sure, somewhere in that era, they went from SAE to Metric. Was the L18 a 5 bolt crank, if it was then I would be looking for L20b bolts. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 10, 2012 Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 5 bolt cranks use a different part number than 6 bolt. Automatic bolts are different again. Quote Link to comment
hobbes_the_cat Posted November 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 Ok, we'll I have another l20b so I'm going to tear it apart and see what bolts it has on it. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 10, 2012 Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 If too long they will bottom out and even though you torque it perfectly it isn't holding it. Easy enough fit, no harm done. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 10, 2012 Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 Im thinking 100pounds should do it with or w/o thread locker. Quote Link to comment
hobbes_the_cat Posted November 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2012 Everything is back together and running good. Lock-tite and an impact wrench should prevent this from happening again. It runs smoother now, I think the flywheel rattling around was throwing the motor off balance. Anyway thanks for all the help and suggestions. :hug: Quote Link to comment
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