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My 1980 daterpillar


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Here's my project datsun pickup. I picked it up for 950 from a college kid as a daily driver. I have an old willys jeep that I like sinking money in to but I also couldn't resist putting a little in the truck. Here she is as I got her (not dead just hauling wood redneck style).

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A short while later I decided to lower it

 

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Then I decided to paint it. Primer:

 

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Black:

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Then for the final color, since I was having a friend paint it who works at a heavy equipment paint shop we decided on caterpillar yellow and black, thus creating... THE DATERPILLAR

 

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The wheels are stock tundra unlimiteds 17x7.5 and they don't require routing, however you do have to get the correct lug nuts as the holes are made for M14, NOT M12. I found that nissan/infinity had a lug nut with the correct 12x1.25 pitch and .73" hole diameter that I needed.

 

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Alas, now she sits with a tired motor that has 2 broken exhaust bolts in the head, whilst I ponder what to do next... I'm thinking chevy 4.3? Or maybe just budget build the l20b...

 

Thoughts???

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Welcome to Ratsun B)

Great first post.

L20b's are cheap, find one and get it going, hunt around on this site in the for sale section, and craigslist.

Another vancouver Ratsun member. :rolleyes:

Who did your bodywork?

 

My friend and I tag teamed the body, the bed was rough! His boss did the paint... I'll leave the rest to anonymity. Not bad for 100$ in materials.

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Welcome to Ratsun B)

Great first post.

L20b's are cheap, find one and get it going, hunt around on this site in the for sale section, and craigslist.

Another vancouver Ratsun member. :rolleyes:

Who did your bodywork?

 

Wayno,

you know anywhere I can take this motor to for a rebuild if I go that route? Tough to find a machine shop that would know these engines around here...

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Wayno,

you know anywhere I can take this motor to for a rebuild if I go that route? Tough to find a machine shop that would know these engines around here...

 

 

I don't know anyone that can get it done in a reasonable amount of time, I take my stuff to AC nutter on fourthplain in orchards, but it takes them sometimes months to do a head, as they do a lot of racecars there, and the racecars take priority.

I had them do a LZ23 block and they put the block together, and a valve job on my modified head(they did the head several years ago), and it cost me under $1400.00, and they bought everything including the gasket set and even the oil pump, oh and a new cam also.

Here's the thing though, it took them 5 or 6 months to do it.

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My friend and I tag teamed the body, the bed was rough! His boss did the paint... I'll leave the rest to anonymity. Not bad for 100$ in materials.

 

 

I ask as I am looking for a reasonable body man that is looking for extra work on the side for cash, I can't say I really hate bodywork, but I am not very good at it, it takes me several times to fix just one dent, and when I think it is good, I will stand back and look, and then see that it's not good and have to do it again for the 5th time.

I need someone that is good at puddy/mud, I have work right now if anyone is interested.

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whatcha got? I might be interested... Im going to be moved back in PDX area next week.

 

 

What I have is my 520 project, it needs a lot of grinding and mud/bondohair, I need the same thing that was done to my 521KC project.

One of the drawbacks is that I have nowhere around here for the work to be done, it will run and drive, but I think I might need to get new front brake calipers, as something is leaking and draining the master.

I will also have to talk to whoever is doing it, and have them show me where I need to weld in new pieces of skin onto the surface to make the filling less thick.

I have done a bunch of mods to this project, one makes mistakes when doing things for the first time, so when and if you came over to look at it, and decide if this is something you would actually want to attack, you would have to tell me what needed to be done before you would take over the work.

I actually might have it painted also, but I bought a nice spray setup and thought I might try to do that one more time, I have sprayed a car once already, but it wasn't that good of a job, I think I put to much on to fast, but everything depends on the cost, as I don't have the room to paint either, unless I do it in my driveway.

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I did like it all black, It looked sweet, but I had to do the cat thing for my buddy. He's always wanted to do a cat truck, we've talked about getting some DATERPILLAR and L20B decals for it, next time he shoots a big ass shovel we're going to park them next to each other and email pics to CAT. Should be sweet.

 

Thanks for all the kind words guys.

 

Wayno, I've heard Nutter is awesome, but that time is their downside... I've got another couple leads I may try...

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I ask as I am looking for a reasonable body man that is looking for extra work on the side for cash, I can't say I really hate bodywork, but I am not very good at it, it takes me several times to fix just one dent, and when I think it is good, I will stand back and look, and then see that it's not good and have to do it again for the 5th time.

I need someone that is good at puddy/mud, I have work right now if anyone is interested.

 

 

My buddy is pretty much constantly busy, and I'm not sure he wants to do more on his time off, but I can ask for you. I got a couple friends that do really good body work, but don't have their own shop to work at. Ill get back to you.

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  • 2 weeks later...

My most recent happenings, as some of you may know, are that I had some iding/missing issues that I attributed to a vacuum leak and thought it may be the adapter plate for my weber, as that has given me issues in the past, or possibly the mani gasket.

 

2 broken exhaust studs, and a broken head bolt later...

 

The head is fixed, the block is awaiting my attack. I had planned on doing a motor swap/complete rebuild, but my l20b came back with great compression so I decided to just put everything back together and drive while I amass my parts to do a motor swap, which I have decided to be a chevy 4.3. I know, I know, diehard datty-heads will roll, but I'm a big proponent of sbc's and their availability and simplicity, which goes for the 4.3 as well.

 

The good news is I finally got rid of all the EGR crap, however, I didn't really find anywhere there would've been a vacuum leak, so I guess we will just have to see...

 

So that's where I'm at, here's a pic for the time being (yes I used it on another thread, sorry for the lack of originality :fu: )

 

photo-2.jpg

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I liked the DOT orange, my old 80 was that color ,,, but i the Caterpiller two tone and matching wheels is way cooler B)

 

 

I have run into the line that runs up to under the air cleaner with the thermoswitch leaking and causing a heavy vacuum leak and because it`s next to carb throat you cant hear it..

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I liked the DOT orange, my old 80 was that color ,,, but i the Caterpiller two tone and matching wheels is way cooler B)

 

 

I have run into the line that runs up to under the air cleaner with the thermoswitch leaking and causing a heavy vacuum leak and because it`s next to carb throat you cant hear it..

 

I eliminated all the EGR stuff on the intake side previously when I installed the carb, so I really didn't have that many vac lines to worry about. Good idea though.

 

Any ideas on whether the vapor return line/charcoal canister for the gas tank is necessary? It was leaking vac a little so I just eliminated it...

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Necessary, no, but having it properly connected will keep the gas fume smell down on hot days. If you cap it, you'll pull vacuum in the tank (since that's the tanks only vent). If you use a vented cap, you're back to gas fumes...

 

Ok, thought so. I may hook it up after I get it back up and running, just making sure it isn't a contributor to my problem, thanks.

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