Reproduction badges from silicone moulds

[Datsun510sss1800coupe]

So this happened this weekend.

 

New revised mold for the Violet badge to cure some problems with the edges.

 

Also cast the Bluebird-U badge. This is giving me some problems with fill though due to the complexity of the mold. Note the missing part on the edge of the U. I think I've got it solved, but I'm out of casting resin, so I won't know until I get down to the plastics shop later.

[Datsun510sss1800coupe]

The bottom bluebird emblem is the one I'm after..

[Dguy210]

The bottom bluebird emblem is the one I'm after..

Those are an absolute bitch to reproduce BTW. Super skinny/thin with lots of detail.  Also note the rear trunk emblem is similar but not the same as the fender emblems.

 

You can get them out of Japan pretty inexpensively though.

[Ratwagon1600]

Those are an absolute bitch to reproduce BTW. Super skinny/thin with lots of detail.

I'm having similar problems with the Aussie "Datsun 1600" fender emblems breaking on the thin points.

[CorAce]

I'm having similar problems with the Aussie "Datsun 1600" fender emblems breaking on the thin points.

 

Douse the resin your using have a "shore D" hardness rating? I've found that the 60-70 range is much more friendly and most resins take about 7-10 days to fully cure to it optimum strength.

[Dguy210]

I'm having similar problems with the Aussie "Datsun 1600" fender emblems breaking on the thin points.

Tell me about it, I have a pile of letters from the ones I tried to cast.  The metal wire embedding does help.  I also picked up some fiberglass fabric today, I'm going try some tests embedding it for some of the bigger pieces.

 

Douse the resin your using have a "shore D" hardness rating? I've found that the 60-70 range is much more friendly and most resins take about 7-10 days to fully cure to it optimum strength.

 I'm using the Tap Quik-cast which is exactly in the 60-70 range, although I'm not sure if the material properties may change slightly with addition of the dye.

 

http://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/Tech%20Data-%20QuikCast.pdf

[Ratwagon1600]

Douse the resin your using have a "shore D" hardness rating? I've found that the 60-70 range is much more friendly and most resins take about 7-10 days to fully cure to it optimum strength.

Good question, short answer, don't know.

 

On my list of things to check now.

 

Thanks !

[CorAce]

yeah, the higher the number the harder the resin, the harder the resin the more brittle it is. I know the clear stuff is some of the hardest up in the 85-95 range.

[Ratwagon1600]

yeah, the higher the number the harder the resin, the harder the resin the more brittle it is. I know the clear stuff is some of the hardest up in the 85-95 range.

Hmmmm, you may have partially solved the problem which has been plaguing me.

 

Until yesterday, all my pours have been with resin which is clear (or silver with the Aluminium powder I've mixed in).

 

Found another tin of resin yesterday which I've now conveniently lost in my pigsty of a garage which when mixed/poured gave castings like this.

 

 

Obviously it isn't clear like some of my previous pours.

 

Off to try and find it now.

[Leprechaun311]

The way they make "pewter"  figurines, now-a-days, is to mix bronze or steel dust in with the resin during the cast, the weight of it sinks it to the exposed surface, then hit it with a buffer afterward and all the "outies" shine up nicely.  The clearcoat as has been mentioned

Brake drum dust works well, just ask the guy/friend to give you the dust off the "top" of the pile, that hasn't been marinated in machining coolant.

A litttle chopped strand mat helps with strength, but the trick is to keep it away from the exposed surface soo that the casting doesn't appear "hairy".

 

Nice job, thanks for documenting so well.  Resin formulators will sell casting resin off the shelf, it'll probably be much cheaper than TAP, but might require a larger minimum buy.

 

(I teach fiberglass classes at a local Jr College, and this is one of the class projects - though not in my class -  done each semester)

[Ratwagon1600]

Im going to pour another badge tonite and will try Dguys idea of embedding wire in the back.

 

The only concern I have with this idea is it may just transfer the stress to the weakest point in the badge (or it may be the perfect fix for the breakage issue).

 

What the hell, I need to keep experimenting on this :thumbup:

[Datsun510sss1800coupe]

Very difficult to source that emblems.. Tried new datsun parts,datsport they say no longer available.. Do u have a contact person in Japan perhaps? Thanx

[Ratwagon1600]

Very difficult to source that emblems.. Tried new datsun parts,datsport they say no longer available.. Do u have a contact person in Japan perhaps? Thanx

PM TristinGrind. He lives for random questions like this.

 

I think he has a contact in Japan.

 

On second thoughts, leave Tristin alone :)

 

Email this guy:

 

http://tokyo-2u.jp/

[Dguy210]

PM TristinGrind. He lives for random questions like this.

 

I think he has a contact in Japan.

 

On second thoughts, leave Tristin alone :)

 

Email this guy:

 

http://tokyo-2u.jp/

 

Yep, that's where I got them from...  I checked the old ebay listing looks like 3 bluebird badges ran me $30 plus $10 for shipping from Japan. So not bad.

 

 

 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_from=&_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ssn=tokyo-2u&_pgn=2&_skc=25&rt=nc

[MikeRL411]

Im going to pour another badge tonite and will try Dguys idea of embedding wire in the back.

 

The only concern I have with this idea is it may just transfer the stress to the weakest point in the badge (or it may be the perfect fix for the breakage issue).

 

What the hell, I need to keep experimenting on this :thumbup:

 

 

You might try fine fiberglas rovings as an additive.  Brownells in USA sells kits for glass bedding rifle actions in stocks and they use rovings.  I bedded several rifles and the finish was bright and smooth, no exposed strands due to the fineness of the rovings.  Detail was so good that the inspector's stamps and proof marks were faithfully reproduced in raised relief, so be sure your molds are smooth and flat if you go this way.

[Ratwagon1600]

Sheesh, fucking suppliers!

 

Found the tin (it's a product called "Diggers fibreglass resin")

 

 

Rang the Australian distributor who put me through to the technical department.

 

Tech department guy in answer to my question "hi, I have a tin of diggers fibreglass resin, could you please tell me what the shore d hardness rating is?", answered "could you tell me what a shore hardness rating is ?"

 

Resisted the urge to shred him emotionally and hung up.

 

Anyway, with Dguys suggestion, and this resin, hopefully I may have the problem solved.

 

I've used Aluminium powder in some of the previous castings and may give it a try with this resin.

 

It definitely comes put of the mould better than some of the previous casts I've done.

[Ratwagon1600]

You might try fine fiberglas rovings as an additive.  Brownells in USA sells kits for glass bedding rifle actions in stocks and they use rovings.  I bedded several rifles and the finish was bright and smooth, no exposed strands due to the fineness of the rovings.  Detail was so good that the inspector's stamps and proof marks were faithfully reproduced in raised relief, so be sure your molds are smooth and flat if you go this way.

Thanks, I'll jump onto the Brownells site and have a look at this.

 

Appreciate the advice!

[CorAce]

I think their may be a difference between fiberglass resin and the Urethane Liquid Plastic I have been using. Check out Smooth-on.com they have lots of good learning tools. I am curios about the aluminum powder thou, can it be polished up.

[Tristin]

PM TristinGrind. He lives for random questions like this.

 

I think he has a contact in Japan.

 

On second thoughts, leave Tristin alone

:)

 

 

Ill never reveal all my sources... never! That reminds me though: I have badges on the way to me already. I need to check EMS on those. 

[Dguy210]

Sheesh, fucking suppliers!

 

Found the tin (it's a product called "Diggers fibreglass resin")

 

 

 

Rang the Australian distributor who put me through to the technical department.

 

Tech department guy in answer to my question "hi, I have a tin of diggers fibreglass resin, could you please tell me what the shore d hardness rating is?", answered "could you tell me what a shore hardness rating is ?"

 

Resisted the urge to shred him emotionally and hung up.

 

Anyway, with Dguys suggestion, and this resin, hopefully I may have the problem solved.

 

I've used Aluminium powder in some of the previous castings and may give it a try with this resin.

 

It definitely comes put of the mould better than some of the previous casts I've done.

 

The data sheets I could find for similar brands of low styrene emission polyester resin put the shore D hardness in the 70-80 range, so I would guess this may be the same.

 

I'm also curious to see if the aluminum powder castings will polish up.

[Ratwagon1600]

Funny you guys should mention the badges with the Aluminium powder as I've been polishing on this afternoon (Aus time).

 

Pics tomorrow (it's roughly 1630 Tuesday afternoon here now).

[Tristin]

Pics tomorrow (it's roughly 1630 Tuesday afternoon here now).

 

I thought using a 24hr clock meant you didnt have to say which part of the day it was? :poke: :rofl:

[Ratwagon1600]

I thought using a 24hr clock meant you didnt have to say which part of the day it was? :poke: :rofl:

Alright pedant, point taken!

 

:)

[Tristin]

pedant

 

Compliment received :) Hahaha I just wanted to talk shit since I cant contribute to this thread. Everyones mold skills are above mine :(

[MikeRL411]

Then there's Zulu time, in theory time at the Royal Observatory in London.  Funny thing, there are 2 "Prime Meridian" markers at Greenwitch!  The original one and the revised "new Survey" one.  I had my picture taken in "No Man's Land" , neither in the Eastern nor Western Hemisphere.  Maybe the only way to avoid a summons in England?