z problems

[jalen]

So I went to go start my z and it won't start. Its getting spark and gas. It had bad gas that reamed of seafoam so I drained the gas tank and fuel lines (dirty brown gas)

So it now has new gas with an oz of se foam.

Im thinking its spark plugs or injectors. Would the fact that it doesent have a valve cover have to do anything with it? It turns over but wont start

[MicroMachinery]

You don't want to start it without a cam cover on... unless you want to douche your engine bay and everything within 10ft. of it in oil.

 

When was the last time it ran?

[jalen]

I has the came cover on, just no gasket and out a month ago. Then my air filter caught on fire so i stopped working on it

[metalmonkey47]

..how did you catch your air filter on fire?

 

 

 

Are you sure you're getting fuel at the fuel rail? I'v found that when you have bad gas, it's usually followed by nasty sediment settling in the filter,

[MikeRL411]

Are the moderators still letting you post?

[datzenmike]

Are the moderators still letting you post?

 

...so far. Skibs painting his 710 so...

 

 

 

..how did you catch your air filter on fire?

 

Has a '72 so might be SUs.

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

[jalen]

This is my '76

How would I see if I'm getting gas in my fuel rail?

[MicroMachinery]

Remove a hose..

[jalen]

So im gettinh fuel to the fuel rail any more ideas of what it could be?

[Alec 720]

Are you sure its getting spark :confused:

[Tristin]

Are you sure its getting spark :confused:

 

So in your first post you assume it could be bad spark plugs, but say its getting spark. Have you tried removing each plug one by one and holding them up to the body to check for spark? I would do that... You say you've got fuel at the rail so I would double check spark.

[I'm BLUE]

Go to xenon.com. ----> http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html download the Factory Service Manual not ... Owners Manual . It will tell you all specs/info you need for diagnostics testing.

 

* Disable ignition. Grab a fuel can. Pull the fuel feed line in engine bay to fuel rail and stick in gas can. Turn key to "on" position. Fuel shouls flow 1-liter per 30 seconds. If it does it should start. This does not mean the fuel pump internal pressure check valve is good. If a pressure check valve is bad it wil bleed back fuel after car is off. Leaving car to have to prime/pump/bleed air each time from scratch.

---If fuel flow is adequete. Re-connect and proceed.

--- If fuel flow is not adequete. Re-perform test ahead of fuel filter. Re-perform at pump itself if needed.

 

* pull coil wire. Turn engine over. You should hear a distinct and constant *crack* from spark.

-- if a constant and distinct crack os heard move on.

-- if it is not heard or erratic. Check coil wires/ign module wires/and test all components with a multi-meter via FSM specs.

--- also if no spark ...@ check pickup inside distributor. this is an important pieces

 

* carefulley ...Check ALL fuel injector connectors/AFM conector/Air Regulator connector/thermotime switch/etc.... ( Note: Touching/cleaning them can cause more issues than leaving alone ... catch 22 .. you never know until you try though)

IMPORTANT : Bosch Ev-1 style connectors solder should connect right into all sensors/injectors above ^^^. Ebay has lots of cheapys that work. GM/AUDI/VOLVO connectors are very nice.

 

* carefulley ...Check ALL primary and secondary igniton system connections. Multi-meter.

 

* carefully ... take off and inspect ECU main harness connector. clean as needed. Test ECU/Maim harness via FSM while you're there.

 

****** check clean ALL ECU harness grounds. ( on intale and possibly 1 to body. ) clean Coil (-) wore that leads back into ECU harness/ignition harness. This tells the computer when to fire the injectors. ******

 

* Check for voltage at each injector connector. 280zx's should be about 3.5v not much wiggle room. If higher or lower than bad wire/high resistance or a bad "drop resistor" if voltage too high. 280z's and 280zx's n/a's use the exact same injectors.

 

* If no voltage to injectors at all with key "on" position. Carefully test and check EFI Relay connections and the relwy itself. This is an EXTREMLEY important and expensive ( for a relay). I believe/speculate in 280z's The fuel pump and EFI relay is rolled into 1 ? (Don't quote me on that ! )

 

* Fuel pressure is around 32-35psi ? ( I cant remember exactly) #'s are in the FSM

 

* If any Oil Pump/Timing Chain/Distributor work has occured. Make sure it is all lined up again perfectly ( anyone can get this mixed up)

 

* check your ignition timing. I like to re-center the indexed marks back to "0" between advanced and retarded. Then once running I set it with a Timing gun.

 

* Check the area of fire closely ... Check AFM connector. test AFM harness connection with multimeter per FSM specs. clean any corrosion.

 

*Check AFM visually ... closely ... especially if fire reached inside of it. Air temperature sensor and I believe Fuel Pump contacts are located inside@Test AFM pins via FSM specs and diagram with multimeter. make sure good contacts used wheb probed. if anything fails = try 3-4 times and replace as needed.

--- if AFM tests ok. Move on.

--- if you replace make sure to use a compatible one.

 

*Check Air regulator. If it's stuck closed and wont open ... that will cause very hard starting/no starting lol. CHECK via fsm. In 280zx's ... the Key "on"/"start" position actuates this regulator as well ax the cold start injector. They don't go bad that often but they do go bad!

 

*Check your Cold start injector. Cold start Injector comes on for a duration of 5-7 secs when the key is in the "start" position. it should not come on any other time. yes they can leak.

--- A trick ( may harm the component ) is to take 2 pieces of 3ft 14-gauge wire. connect one end of (1) 14-gauge wire to (-) of battery post/ and other to pin #1 side of cold start injector. Take other 14-gauge wire and connect one side to (+) part of battery and other side to cold start injector pin #2.

NOTE : a distinct "click" should occur and if you have a fuel pressure gauge inline ... if the pressure drops ... the cold start injector is good/working. But does not mean it is receiving signal from Thermotime switch. ( check/clean/inspect all connections to both mentioned above)

 

* Check Timing chain stretch. Hainz video descilribes bedt. Pull off valve cover ... rotate engine over with care. Look for Cam sprocket Timing "v" notch. Correlate the position of it versus the "lineup" notch. very easy to do. Cam sprocket can be advanced to another position to makeup for a slightly worn chain. its a 19mm I believe.

 

NOTE : a bad ign switch (electrical portion) can cause ALL kinds of problems. Disconnect starter excite wire and test switch in all positons.

 

Test all your relays. They can be jumped if need be. Do not attempt if not famaliar with. Test the relays ... some have to be replaced in order to figure out for sure.

 

Bad Connections are a very common issue

[I'm BLUE]

cars for sale and running i see.

 

what was the issue ??

[Tristin]

I hope youre not selling your Z because of the online fiasco a while ago...

[jalen]

Car runs when it wants to. If someone local wants to make some cash and help me get it a good runner pm me. I have some people looking at it later this week.

Tristan im selling because i found an old corolla ae71. And i lost interest in the z. Ill get back in to the datsun game when i can afford a 510 or 411.

[Mr.Dean_Yates]

...so far. Skibs painting his 710 so...

 

 

 

 

 

Has a '72 so might be SUs.

 

but he says injectors...lmao

[Mr.Dean_Yates]

Car runs when it wants to. If someone local wants to make some cash and help me get it a good runner pm me. I have some people looking at it later this week.

Tristan im selling because i found an old corolla ae71. And i lost interest in the z. Ill get back in to the datsun game when i can afford a 510 or 411.

 

waaa! my car doesnt run so im gonna shit canning it and buying another car that i wont be able to afford the up keep on because i think its gonna get me some where....quitter. my car has sat for over a year because i cant afford the shit i need for it, but guess what, the thought of selling has never crossed my mind.

if your gonna quit after this...you shouldnt get back into the datsun world. stick with your hondas and corollas

[cdub42]

 

 

waaa! my car doesnt run so im gonna shit canning it and buying another car that i wont be able to afford the up keep on because i think its gonna get me some where....quitter. my car has sat for over a year because i cant afford the shit i need for it, but guess what, the thought of selling has never crossed my mind.

if your gonna quit after this...you shouldnt get back into the datsun world. stick with your hondas and corollas

 

Harsh, but

[Tristin]

Lol welcome to forever ago... This thread should probably be locked with the rest of Jalens threads. Paging Mike!

[Tice]

my car has sat for over a year because i cant afford the shit i need for it, but guess what, the thought of selling has never crossed my mind.

if your gonna quit after this...you shouldnt get back into the datsun world. stick with your hondas and corollas

 

I'm in the same boat! The Air Force keeps telling me to go to 3rd world countries, so the Z never gets the attn it deserves, but I'll never sell it. Jalen... :fu: ...quitter.