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Olivia - 69 2 door 510 sedan - fully built CA18DET


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Picked up some bar stock to mock up some stuff (and practice welding). Started measuring and cutting things.

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Then i got out the acetylene torch and started burning things.

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Then i started bending and cleaning things.

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At which point things started taking shape and my fuel cell was no longer sitting in the spare tire well.

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This is where I left off. Still plenty to go... I need some square tubing and sheet metal to finish laying everything out.

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Anyway, i told you guys I was up to something... this is just part of it :)

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Yeah, i'm not a fan of windows and I have a lot of computers laying around. It's going to get mounted to my work bench, but I have to make/buy one first. I haven't had a lot of time unfortunately. I'm looking for shelving for the garage so I can get some more room and free up my table so I can mount things like the vise, grinder, etc.

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Updates!

 

I jacked up my car and pulled my wheels off to find that my wheels rub when i go over any bumps... so I think i have to raise the car a little (NOOOOOOOO!!!!!). Any suggestions from height challenged 510 owners?

 

See, here's proof:

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Here's a random picture I took of the suspension so far. I still want to get T3 TC rods. My bushings are smoked and being able to adjust all my suspension components makes me happy.

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RCAs are installed! Balla! Shouldn't have bump steer anymore, but I will need to do an alignment again.

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When i pull the crossmember later this month to either fab an oil pan or flip one of the stock crossmembers i have, I'm going to clean and paint all my suspension and steering components. I'd like to make everything look sexy and be cleaner. 50 year old dirt is sucky.

 

What do you guys think? better?

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What size tires are you running?

 

And yes, much better!

 

Wanna mod my oil pan? :rolleyes:  lols. Im pretty set of making mid/rear sump on mine so that I can keep the stock crossmember (I like the idea of the crossmember in front of the oil pan) and be able to run stock sway bars (I should say stock shaped).

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If you get those adjustable T/C rods you can add caster and stop the rub at the same time.  Additional caster will make the car track straighter and be more stable at freeway (and faster :) ) speeds.

 

Another way to adjust bump steer is to space the outer tie rod down from the steering arm.

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Laecaon - great minds think alike.

 

Bababooey - I had just thought of that on my way to work and was going to post it! So great minds think alike x2!!!

 

I wouldn't mind helping, but you have to understand that I am not a fabricator or welder. I'm learning as I go so I can't guarantee fantastic results ha ha ha. I'm doing small things first before the pan. I'm going to cut and reweld my wastegate dump tube so it's in a good position (what I mean is so that I can actually install it, HA!). So hopefully doing a lot of things like that will help me get enough experience to handle something like the oil pan/pickup tube mod.

 

That being said, sure! Ill help you :)

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Dammit. I should have wrapped more of the downpipe. I only did the top an it was fine to work, but the traffic is 10mph for 18 miles going home. I made it 14 miles and my brakes are locked up... So here I sit, waiting for the fluid temps to come down. Guess what I'm doing tonight?

 

Damn fuckig straight. I'm putting more header wrap on and finishing my fuel cell straps. Who knows, maybe more

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similar situation on the way to blue lake on my truck.... had a hung pad ....it would over heat the rear brakes so much the pedal would get hard as hell and the truck would do the same...ifigured the heat was boiling the brake fluid causing the issue but the truck would wanna stop more than go so i can sympathize...

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Shouldn't be a bad fix... I wasn't able to get much done last night. I put the car up on jacks and started making a wastegate dump tube and bending the other side of the fuel cell brackets. I'm heading out of town so I'll have to pick it back up when i get back.

 

I wish there was more time in the day :/ I had to work from 7:30am - 11:30pm two days ago so my sleep schedule is all sorts of messed up right now... i'm still playing catch up

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its just annoying. If I were driving the car hard, i could understand it, but i'm just driving in traffic. I know theres not a lot of room for heat to escape in the upper areas, but damn.... 

 

there may be a line too close to the DP down below towards the bottom of the firewall. I'm going to check it all out and see where the problem is before i do anything.

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i never had that problem in my ether of my sr cars weird . in my tan car i use to brown the fluid pretty quick from the heat. My flared car has a louvered hood and it vents all the heat . my brake fluid has not changed color at all. At stop lights i can see the heat escaping from the driver side louvers.

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Yeah, there could be a brake line thats too close to the downpipe too. IDK... haven't been under there to inspect it yet. It's not something normal and this just started happening and only in traffic after extended periods of time. It is 100% related to heat and the only thing close to the brakes/lines/valve/MC is the downpipe, so i figure its a good place to start :)

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I want a fiberglass hood. But simply because my hood is so tweaked. There is a lot of bondo on the corners of my hood.

 

Maybe you should try a heat shield. I did notice you moved the brake distribution block, maybe you could move it further from the exhaust...

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Yeah, I am considering getting the wilwood proportion valve and mounting it further away. It's adjustable, tiny and an upgrade. My hood is all facked because it had flown up while driving at some point with the PO, hence the cut core support, hood and addition of hood pins. I can't say i've never done the same thing. I did do that once on my black 510 and the hood never opened/closed again without scraping the vents up above the hood.

 

Fix problem with hood + weight savings = win.

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