Jump to content

TENDRIL's 67' pantydropping, black cherry pearl popping 520 now with Turbo DOHC, body drop, and 4-link with bags or coilovers not sure, maybe both


TENDRIL

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 354
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

3 link wishbone to avoid moving the gas tank... my mazda

 

2013-02-27004523_zps38416679.jpg

 

foulink with trangualtion bars rear facing ... hard on pinion bearings ... but s i could keep tank location ... swap the triangulation bars to the front for a better design .. this was ten plus years old and worked for the whole time .. not ideal for high horsepower and performance .. but i was mini trucking...i hate fuel tanks in the bed .. and i had 15 gallons of air out back .,..

 

91151552-4FD7-4FC6-B891-AA72E4CE7D60-184

  • Like 1
Link to comment

cut out the old gap filler

14+-+10.jpg

 

 

14+-+9.jpg

 

IMG_1538.JPG

 had to remove some things

 

 

IMG_1539.JPG

 

proceeded to put the bed back on to locate wheel well centers and cab and bed spacing

 

 

 

IMG_1540.JPG

IMG_1541.JPG

had to cut off the old front cab mounts for cab to drop down .

 

back to centering 

IMG_1542.JPG

 

 

 

about how much axle needs to move forward to be center, not a problem with the link suspension 

 

IMG_1543.JPG

 

my drive shaft might only be about 3 ft. long maybe less.... :ninja:

 

IMG_1545.JPG

 

anybody have an idea about how far away the bad and cab should be?

 

IMG_1546.JPG

 

 

where i stopped for the day

  • Like 4
Link to comment

As I said, there are a few ways to go about this, most all of them will necessitate a shorter driveline, except maybe a couple ways.

How soon you doing the link suspension, if in the next 3 months or so, then wait it out and do nothing till then about the gap.

Link to comment

As I said, there are a few ways to go about this, most all of them will necessitate a shorter driveline, except maybe a couple ways.

How soon you doing the link suspension, if in the next 3 months or so, then wait it out and do nothing till then about the gap.

Why? Why not set the gap for the right look then either shorten the frame or whatever else is needed then figure out the length of the link bars for the RIGHT distance between cab and bed/frame to center the rear wheel? He is not using the 520 frame. And the mazda frame is the wrong length.

Link to comment

mitsubishi frame, and i will be digging right into the 4 link as soon as my rod ends show up.

 

 

 

as for the drive line it already has to be 100 % custom made since i am mating a dsm motor to a  Toyota w58 trans  to a Mitsubishi LSD, 

 

i have always wanted the proper body lines, and now i can achieve them,

 

(almost considered a ute build 1 piece body with sweeping pillars ) 

 

 

i have it all almost sorted, the hardest part is lifting the cab and bed off by myself...to take measurements and stuff

  • Like 1
Link to comment

mitsubishi frame, and i will be digging right into the 4 link as soon as my rod ends show up.

 

 

 

as for the drive line it already has to be 100 % custom made since i am mating a dsm motor to a  Toyota w58 trans  to a Mitsubishi LSD, 

 

i have always wanted the proper body lines, and now i can achieve them,

 

(almost considered a ute build 1 piece body with sweeping pillars ) 

 

 

i have it all almost sorted, the hardest part is lifting the cab and bed off by myself...to take measurements and stuff

I did the UTE thing, it's to much work, never again.

DSCN2138.JPG

Link to comment
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.