Hiding wiring

[screamer510]

I've noticed many of the "built" dimes on here have very little, if any, wiring visible in the engine bay. I've got some thoughts on how this is accomplished, like running it low on the framerails, or on the crossmember.

If any of you have done a little "decluttering" to your engine bay, what did you do and how did you do it? I'd like to make mine look less like a smog'd out '80s engine bay and more clean and custom.

Here's what I'm working with. L20 with SUs and Jacob's ignition. Intact wiring harness.

 

 

 

Thanks for PICS!

 

Dan

[Laecaon]

Through the upper "frame rails" where the hood release cable is. Re rout your wiring under the dash for the 2 separate sides...

[Sinnful]

As I was pulling my single slammer out today, I was looking at my wiring and I think when I put my SR in I will be hiding all teh wires that I can.

[Creepy Cruiser]

Yep, low on the frame rails, under the radiator, smaller ones down both sides, inside the intake manifold, etc... Just look around for places to stash stuff, lol.

 

Here is one of our 96 S14 OBDII motors, and it actually still has all the smog equipment on it except the EGR. (and anyone who knows these motors, knows there is a lot of crap to hide on the OBDIIs, lol)

 

Right after the wire and smog tuck:

 

 

 

Updated pic: This is what it looks like now that it's all finished. (notice all the mounting tits are shaved off the intake runners now also)

 

 

 

 

 

instead of this, lol.

 

[INDY510]

.

Un-hook the fuse box and every connection ..... then un-tangle the wires enough to pull everything through the firewall

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I tucked most of the wires in the right upper frame rail:

 

[philcas1987]

I've noticed many of the "built" dimes on here have very little, if any, wiring visible in the engine bay. I've got some thoughts on how this is accomplished, like running it low on the framerails, or on the crossmember.

If any of you have done a little "decluttering" to your engine bay, what did you do and how did you do it? I'd like to make mine look less like a smog'd out '80s engine bay and more clean and custom.

Here's what I'm working with. L20 with SUs and Jacob's ignition. Intact wiring harness.

 

 

 

Thanks for PICS!

 

Dan

get rid of the huge battery,run a zx alternator and delete the regulator wiring. Strip the harness and everything that doesnt plug in you delete. Get rid of Jacobs and ballast. Run a matchbox . Fix the spaghetti plug wires. All light wires you can run through the upper rail. Lower wires

like starter and alt. Run along the bottom rail. Move fuse box and relays inside cabin. Very easy thing go do. Run wiper motor wiring inside popping it through the choke cable hole. Detailing the dirty engine bay.

[dennis]

Just cut everything out of your engine bay and think about it later.

 

[DARIN 510]

Here is mine i put all the relays and fuse box under the dash. Then ran the wiring down the side of the fender frame rail and comes threw the hole for the fuel filter and the rest goes right in the factory spot

I'm also using a 240sx alternator so I could get rid of the external regulator and more amps.

[yellowdatsun]

The best way to do it is to rewire the car with an aftermarket harness. Not only will this come with super long wires which make hiding them easy, it also eliminates a LOT of the relays and junk in the engine bay, thus making it that much easier to hide everything.

 

[philcas1987]

hey yellow what the deal with the sway bar mounts on the frame rail? Did the snap off inside because of rust and that was a way of fixing it. Or to reinforce the frame rail

[yellowdatsun]

To reinforce the frame rail. Otherwise the bolts will crush and distort the frame material as you tighten them down.

[fisch]

Here is mine i put all the relays and fuse box under the dash. Then ran the wiring down the side of the fender frame rail and comes threw the hole for the fuel filter and the rest goes right in the factory spot

I'm also using a 240sx alternator so I could get rid of the external regulator and more amps.

 

 

So clean I'd say I could eat off of it, but I wouldn't want to dirty it with food. Inspiring thread guys!

[DARIN 510]

So clean I'd say I could eat off of it, but I wouldn't want to dirty it with food. Inspiring thread guys!

 

Hahaha. Thank you for the compliment, thats exactly what I was going for. Underneath the looks the same to.

[jun]

Darin, your engine bay is inspiring indeed!

I have a question for you guys relocating the battery. What do you do with the negative end? I notice on all the relocation kits, it comes with a long enough + cable, but the - cable is 3' or so. Do you just ground it to body/chassis in the trunk?

 

I am about to do some wire hiding and want to relocate the battery in my wagon, just thought I'd ask before I start frying stuff :pirate:

[Laecaon]

I dont know about the Negative. But I would make a nice Positive Post in the bay for any jumping you may need to do (for other cars or your own)

[jun]

Didn't think about a + post in the bay, but I probably wouldn't go that route. I want to get rid of anything I don't need.

 

I've thought about using my smaller battery again (Odyssey 680) and placing it in the glovebox or someplace up front in the passenger area, to simplify things. But I like my big 'ol Optima, I know my car will start even after sitting a while. It just hogs up so much space in the bay. That 680 scares me sometimes, if it's cold, sometimes it would die while cranking.

[DARIN 510]

Hey jun thanks for showing me some love. I love your car and your style, would like to see it in person. I watch your build threads all the time you do very clean and quality work. About the battery question, I have an Optima battery in the back I ran the pos cable all the way to the starter and the neg all the way to steering bracket. Now my friend with a 510 wagon ran his pos just like mine and the neg is bolted to the floor next to the battery. If you need pics to clarify let me know.

[philcas1987]

jun the pc680 you own sucks! in california really? it started my 510 no problem in pnw freezing/snow weather. ran it for over a year with a dented case damaging one cell. indy now owns the one i bought after that. he lives in the bay area. maybe he can chime in

[jun]

Darin, likewise. Hope to see your ride at JCCS this year.

 

I'd be curious to see pics of the setup if it's not any trouble. Where are you feeding the pos cable into the cabin? You're not drilling a hole in the firewall are you?

 

If I recall, I think I saw a rubber plug near the passenger seat rail that may be a good access point for the pos cable.

 

Are you guys running circuit breakers? If so how many amps?

 

One last question Darin, about your wire tuck. Did you lengthen much of the stock wiring? Did you take the wires apart at the connector in order to feed your wires to where they needed to go?

 

Phil, yes my 680 sucks. It was free from a friend, and was only supposed to be temporary. It may have used up its life before being given to me.

[qwik510]

Guys,

 

When I grounded mine, I used a cable from the battery negative to the inner fender well in the trunk. I also ran a braided ground from the engine block to the firewall.

 

MAD Enterprises has lots of good stuff for remote mounting the battery.

 

One problem with a relocated battery is having a heavy gauge "Hot" wire running the length of the car. It is best to use a Ford style starter solenoid mounted close to the battery. This way, the "Hot" Wire to the starter is only hot when cranking and it is electrically dead all other times.

 

See MAD Enterprises for more info.

 

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml

 

 

 

They also have Connectors for adding a Positive under the hood or under the dash, etc.

 

[jun]

qwik, that's a good point. I like how it can also serve as a distribution block for other wires. I have a lot going to positive in the wagon, like my air-lift compressor, air horns, etc (all fused connections of course)

 

I'm placing an order on Summit, would this be the same item? It would be nice to get it on one order.

Summit remote starter solenoid

[HRH]

Hmm, interesting use of the Ford solenoid. I only mounted my battery in the rear seat footwell behind the passenger seat. Cables running to the starter aren't really that long. Think it was only 5' or so. I ran them exactly the same as original, ground going all the way to the starter bolt. Haven't had any issues with this setup. (Besides losing one seating capacity.)

[INDY510]

jun the pc680 you own sucks! in california really?

 

I love the pc680 that is now onto it's 3rd 510 ..... :lol: ...... . I want one for my wagon mounted on the inside of the firewall, behind the glovebox

 

.... I don't have a stereo, or amp,, (just Hella H4's)...... .. but it starts up every morning,,,, even after sitting for a week or two

 

 

As far as lowered 510 sedans are concerned ... .. with #225 rear coilovers,,, I can't even put a spare tire in my trunk . ... :lol:

 

.... 510's handle better without any "extra" weight in the trunk ... .. especially if it's slammed ..... . . batteries are too heavy for "one side" of the trunk

[five10freak]

Guys,

 

When I grounded mine, I used a cable from the battery negative to the inner fender well in the trunk. I also ran a braided ground from the engine block to the firewall.

 

MAD Enterprises has lots of good stuff for remote mounting the battery.

 

One problem with a relocated battery is having a heavy gauge "Hot" wire running the length of the car. It is best to use a Ford style starter solenoid mounted close to the battery. This way, the "Hot" Wire to the starter is only hot when cranking and it is electrically dead all other times.

 

See MAD Enterprises for more info.

 

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml

 

 

 

They also have Connectors for adding a Positive under the hood or under the dash, etc.

 

 

 

+1 for Madelectrical, the owner will keep you on the phone for ever but he is very informative and generally a nice guy. i have that same kit plus a few others for when i relocate my battery to the trunk. i think you Dave gave me the idea when i saw it in the V8 car a long time ago.

[jun]

I've been mocking up the battery relocation in my wagon, and I've realized that there is no place to relocate a full size battery and keep it clean looking without a bunch of fab work. I like my interior stock looking, and that big red battery sticks out no matter where I put it.

 

Indy, you gave me some ideas about that PC680. I only had problems with it in the cold. Maybe I'll give it another chance. And I can hide that battery anywhere.