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L16 Sending Me Mixed Messages


521chowda

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Today my truck decided it wanted to run again. It had fired up and idled as though nothing was wrong. i had let it idle for a long while ocasionally reving, holding at about three grand for a minute and letting it idle some more. I figured why not and decided to take it for a spin up and down the street. No issues until about 5 minutes later the vehicle chugs and dies. Now it fires up only to die a second later.

 

My guess is that it is over heating? maybe? (not sure because the temp gauge is fickle). Anyone else have issues like this before?

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Fuel filter is good, pump is good. you think maybe the condenser is causing this? Im not making it even close to a miles worth of driving.

I was having back firing as well. Miles, well that was my good day. I made it about 1 mile once and the car died. I could get it running for about 20 seconds, oh that was fun to limp it home. Sometimes it wouldnt even start, and just puff smoke out the intake.

 

From what I have learned, Vacuum leaks (not many on these cars), fuel problems (quite often), and ignition (many things to go wrong there), can all cause these types of on/off problems. Ignition condensers can be bad out of the box, and they can give lots of random symptoms.

 

Do you have a previous thread with your problems?

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My truck is doin the same shit. It idles like a dream and gos just fine then about 2min it just seams like its runnin out of gas but its not. all new filters, draind the tank, blew out all the lines, took apart the carberatore and found nothing, changed from points to electric, no improvment. Its like the datsun pleg or somthing. IDK if this is the best place to post this we need a WTF column.

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I was having back firing as well. Miles, well that was my good day. I made it about 1 mile once and the car died. I could get it running for about 20 seconds, oh that was fun to limp it home. Sometimes it wouldnt even start, and just puff smoke out the intake.

 

From what I have learned, Vacuum leaks (not many on these cars), fuel problems (quite often), and ignition (many things to go wrong there), can all cause these types of on/off problems. Ignition condensers can be bad out of the box, and they can give lots of random symptoms.

 

Do you have a previous thread with your problems?

 

 

not with the same issues, i guess ill replace the condenser or try one of my other dizzys.

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Condensers are a pain in the ass. Not because they just are, but because they can cause a dozen different problems that will drive you batshit insane.

Pissed me off so much I went to a matchbox dizzy.

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Today my truck decided it wanted to run again. It had fired up and idled as though nothing was wrong. i had let it idle for a long while ocasionally reving, holding at about three grand for a minute and letting it idle some more. I figured why not and decided to take it for a spin up and down the street. No issues until about 5 minutes later the vehicle chugs and dies. Now it fires up only to die a second later.

 

My guess is that it is over heating? maybe? (not sure because the temp gauge is fickle). Anyone else have issues like this before?

 

 

Yea, when my ignition condenser was going out. I could drive 30 miles just fine, then I couldnt even run it long enough to let it warm up.

 

X2 on the condenser.

 

This is how my L20B ran when I had a shit condenser on it. They're cheap. Might look into replacing it? I drove my truck home 30 minuets running okay. I got it home, took it out for a drive, and it lost all spark. I played around replacing ALL kinda of stuff when the $6 condenser was the problem.

 

 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAxjnTs8sTU&feature=g-upl

 

 

 

 

This is how it ran with a brand new condenser.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XlbEr9kEYLA&feature=g-upl

Edited by metalmonkey47
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Today my truck decided it wanted to run again. It had fired up and idled as though nothing was wrong. i had let it idle for a long while ocasionally reving, holding at about three grand for a minute and letting it idle some more. I figured why not and decided to take it for a spin up and down the street. No issues until about 5 minutes later the vehicle chugs and dies. Now it fires up only to die a second later.

 

My guess is that it is over heating? maybe? (not sure because the temp gauge is fickle). Anyone else have issues like this before?

 

Doubt it's the pump or filter. Take a look at the front of the carb, ... is the gas at the level mark? If full it should run.

 

Try unscrewing the idle mixture screw carefully counting the turns so you can put it back the same. Spray some carb cleaner (the kind with the red straw) into the hole to blow out any dirt. Put the mixture screw back in.

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Ok so just figerd it out. well mine. Its the carb. Tack the vacume line if that comes from the block to the intake manifold, git a hose that fits and goes into the cab, a can of carb cleaner, thats what you need Oh and a buddy to hold the hose and the can. go drive it and when it stars to die shoot the card cleaner into the hose if it starts to go again then you have a carb problem. Idk what it is i ttok mine apart like 3 times and cant find anything wrong. but I slaped a new one on and boom problem solved.

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it doesnt sound like a spark or timing problem how ever others have had the same problem so change the condensor there cheap enuff.

it sounds like its an old problem something that only comes with age :) .... if its not the condensor or fuel pump it will be carb problem. datszenmike makes a good point you will want to check that

 

the best way:

clean your carby even if you have to take it to some one to clean for you (taking it to a pro is probably the best option you will end up with a near new carb and correct float level)

when you take the carb off put new manifold gaskets on it and a new fuel filter (there cheap and easy)

 

when youve done that drain out your gas tank and put some new fuel in it (could be water in your tank or old gas). you will also want to redo the fuel mixture on the carb (probably 1.5-2.5 turns from fully closed)

chuck a vacuum gauge on it they can tell you alot about what the motors doing, also warm it up and do your tappet gaps and timing while your at it.

the vacuum gauge will also help you fine tune the engine properly on this last stage to get everything right once its going

 

or the cheap way:

change the manifold gaskets, clean the carb bowl, blow out the jets with carb cleaner, tuneup with vacuum gauge/timing light

 

9 times out of 10 they just need some tlc with a service and a tuneup

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Doubt it's the pump or filter. Take a look at the front of the carb, ... is the gas at the level mark? If full it should run.

 

Try unscrewing the idle mixture screw carefully counting the turns so you can put it back the same. Spray some carb cleaner (the kind with the red straw) into the hole to blow out any dirt. Put the mixture screw back in.

 

 

I forgot to mention its a brand new weber carb, but ill still clean it.

 

i just bought a condenser today, got in late and havent had time to put it on.

 

water in the tank is a possibility because i didnt have these problems until after it rained

 

So hopefully after a firm caburetor douching, new condenser, and a vacuum line check everything will be good! :cool:

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I broke down yesterday.

I pushed my 521 in the parking lot and I ck for spark right then.

Then I looked at the carb and the squirt of gas was weak when I cycled the linkage.

IO then took the out put of the fuel hose ans pointed in a safe direction and no gas cam out. I said Fuck its only a 1 yr nissan koyosan pump. I ck the fuel gauge.

I walkd 4 miles home go my jeep and put another new pump on. then i noticed my input hose to the pump had a crack. Thus I dont all along it was succking up air instead of gas.

 

Chowder soo as your prople happens ck the spark from the center wire from cap to ground. If good then look at the fuel pump and see if gas squirts in the main side of the barrel..

 

If bad spark ck the connection on points inner and outer and make sure cap(condensor) is grounded. Most time when a condensor is bad yourll be able to idel but when you rev up it will start cutting out.

 

also if you have points and you dont have to run a POINT COIL, and the ballast resisitor.

 

Dont not use a MSD Blaster or Super Coil unless you add more ballast resisitors in series. Feel coil if hot when it breaks down again

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Chowder

Annother update on my prople.

I swapped 3 carbs today and finally got the 4th to work. They wont idel and one is a brand now carb.

I dont get it . I was stumped so dont feel frustrated.

 

I just dont get it. I cant get them to idle. I ck the idle jets unless its insde the carb. I tried carb cleaner. nothing!

 

 

521 you need to change out the fuel filter more often or run 2 of them. as the fuel tank filler hose is in the wheel wheell. Dirt and rust(water) !!!!!!

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Yeah water will settle in the bottom of the bowl. Sometimes just driving it hard will suck it through. Easy enough to take the top off and look. Pour a couple of tablespoon fulls of methyl hydrate directly into the bowl to absorb the moisture.

 

You could still count the turns out to remove the idle mixture screw so it can be returned and spray out with carb cleaner.

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I forgot to mention its a brand new weber carb, but ill still clean it.

 

i just bought a condenser today, got in late and havent had time to put it on.

 

water in the tank is a possibility because i didnt have these problems until after it rained

 

So hopefully after a firm caburetor douching, new condenser, and a vacuum line check everything will be good! :cool:

 

So you git it goin yet?

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