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"Datsunami" 510 SR23DET S14 Build.... SR-TITTY-THREE!


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So went back onto Allenfasteners.com site and ordered the hardware again but got ARP bolts cause I know they are made to standards.

I got ARP M10-1.25 x 80mm Stainless 12point shoulder bolts with the matching Stainless nuts.

Allen only charged me $3.34 for them due to the credit he said he would give me for the old bolts.

The ARP bolts and nuts were more expensive... But all's well that ends well....

These should look very nice bolting my Strut Tower Brace into Place.

 

Here is what the whole fiasco was over... a couple of bolts.... jeeze

2012-10-11121049.jpg

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I needed some nice bolts for the Strut Tower bar so I Googled “12 point 3/8” x 3” flange bolt.” Came up with a company named Allen Fasteners. Everything looked legit and the site allowed me to buy bolts one at a time. The pricing was kind of high but better than having to buy 5, 10 or 20 at a time.

So I ordered two 3/8-24x3” 12 Point Flange bolts and matching 12pt Stainless Nuts. Cost me around $18.

I receive the hardware and attempt to spin the nut onto the bolt. Well, it would not go on smoothly. So I got a couple of wrenches and started to chase the threads with the Nut.

Well, the damn nut galls and gets stuck onto the bolt. It was not cross threaded or anything. WTF? I tried the other bolt and nut, it would not go on smoothly either but I was not about to make the same mistake.

So I email the company and after 2 days don’t get a response.

I then decide to call them. A guy names Allen gets on the phone. Guess it’s his company.

Well, I explain the problem to him and he asks me if I used anti seize on the nut first.

I told him no, why? I was just dry fitting the nut without any torque. He told me I always need to use anti seize. I was like huh? I shouldn’t have to use it to just spin a nut onto a bolt. Besides, I have hundreds of bolts on my car that don’t need anti seize. Also, anti seize is for applications where there is heat and cooling cycles and possible galling when torqued.

I started to say I wanted ARP nuts and bolts instead cause they are made to a standard but he cuts me off mid sentence with a huff and says “Fuck this shit, just send them back and I will credit your back the money." I then started to say all I wanted is an exchange but he cuts me off again saying, “I'll say it one more time man, send 'em back, you'll get your money and that's the end of it.”

I was like Whaaat the hell. That escalated way too fast.

So I apologized for any miss understanding and tried another time to calmly explain what I wanted and he fuckin’ cuts me off again saying, “Your never going to be happy, so just fucking send back the bolts and that’s it. I’ll credit you your fucking money and that will be the end of it.”

WTF??!!

At that point I just said, “Thanks for the stellar Customer Service, Have a good Day.” and hung up.

I sent that shit out ½ hour later!

So just say No to Allen Fasteners or call Mr. Ballistic just to fuck with him!!! 19092238347…. Hahaha

 

Anti Sieze is to prevent corrosion and allow the fastener to be removed when exposed to the elements. There are other lubricants for beding in nuts, etc and anti sieze isn't one of them. Thanks for the heads up on Allan and his wreaked nuts.

 

Wicked build btw :)

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So an update on the Fifteen52 Wheels I won.

The Tarmacks do not come in 15". Only 16-22".

And anything bigger than 15" on a dime looks like ass IMO.

So, I asked them if I can get the Snowflake instead and they said yes.

They come in 15x8 and I think I can get custom offsets and PCD.

So I will get +10. That should tuck nicely.

The only thing is that their next production run won't be out till Spring (March).

I can wait. My dime is not even running yet. By then, It will be built and tuned (hopefully)

So what do you think?

Here are some pics and an example on a boxy car (truck in the case)

 

Standard black with machined face and lip...

1552SNOWFLAKE15x8.jpg

1552_snowflakes_600_1.jpg

 

All White

 

Snowflakewhite3.jpg

 

 

Would look nice tucked

1552SNOWFLAKETRUCK.jpg

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#1 on Page 34... hehehe

 

Damn, That's what I thought.

Ok, I'll use them around the house for various things; To hold down the tarp covering my junk in the back yard, to wrap my garden hose around,

I can Fill two with cement and stick a pole in the middle for clothes line poles....

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Hey there, this ish is looking good! As far as wheels I just got some 15x8 +20 that I am running with a 5mm spacer, so +15. I have a 4dr. w/penultimate crossmember (-.8* camber) and my 195/50 Falken will fit. After I rolled the crap out of the lips an "modified" the inner step :devil: . You might want the +30 with various spacers to tune it. I'm thinking you will fit a bigger tire that way, depending on your camber settings. Also if you trim the control arm just a bit it can help with higher offset and bigger tires too. I could run mine +20 in the back if I cut the control arm. I probably could've gotten away without modding the inner step.

 

Those wheels are going to look cool. I want to see one fully polished or flat silver...

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Hey there, this ish is looking good! As far as wheels I just got some 15x8 +20 that I am running with a 5mm spacer, so +15. I have a 4dr. w/penultimate crossmember (-.8* camber) and my 195/50 Falken will fit. After I rolled the crap out of the lips an "modified" the inner step :devil: . You might want the +30 with various spacers to tune it. I'm thinking you will fit a bigger tire that way, depending on your camber settings. Also if you trim the control arm just a bit it can help with higher offset and bigger tires too. I could run mine +20 in the back if I cut the control arm. I probably could've gotten away without modding the inner step.

 

Those wheels are going to look cool. I want to see one fully polished or flat silver...

I am not sure what finish I want yet but will probably just get the stock finish which is Black with machined silver face and lip. I can polish out the face and lips later when they are a little hashed...

i think the wheel size and offest should be about perfect

 

no wheel spacers!

What offset are you referring to? The +30 or the +10?

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+10 is going to be close to the strut tube if you are running 280ZX struts. I am on +4's and I have around 5mm before contact with my coilovers. If you are running 8" wides on the fronts then you have an extra 12.5mm added to inside of your wheel over a 7" wide. This is why most people with 280ZX struts run as close to 0 on a 15 x 7, because it fits.

 

On my 510 running +4's I had to roll my fenders big time and then even further mashed the lips with a hammer and dolly. Running a zero on the fronts would have given me more room on the strut side clearance but I would have had to roll my fenders even more. Add another inch to the mix and something has to give and it is going to be your fender unless you run some crazy adjustable LCA's and have a ton of - camber. If you want to tuck then the fenders will have to be rolled big time. I think you could get it to fit if you can some -8 and roll the fenders nearly a half an inch out.

 

I will double check my setup with absolute numbers later.

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Thanks guys. :thumbup:

These will be 15x8. So lets say I can get them to do a custom offset. What would be Ideal?

I don't mind notching the LCA and I also mean to roll and slightly pull my rear fenders.

That's a given.

If I can't get them to do a custom offset, the standard for them is +30. I know, high but I already have

extended lug studs and I can run some spacers worse comes to worse.

But I am not going to complain, fre wheels are free wheels! B)

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