]2eDeYe Posted April 30, 2013 Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 :lol:What is the capacity? Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted April 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 I dont know of the exact capacity but it appears to have almost double of my 12 gallon fuel cell. The stock tank is 11.9 gallons so I would think this is almost double, maybe 20 gallons or so... I can get some measurements and do the math if you want, I tried searching google and couldnt come up with an answer. Z-Train had one a few years ago that I think he sold and I'll bet my Barbie doll collection that Mike knows the answer ;) Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted April 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 What year is your truck?? In 78 they started mounting the tank to the frame and not the bed, it wouldnt be hard to put the mounting holes in your bed but I wanted to give you a heads up Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted April 30, 2013 Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 What year is your truck?? In 78 they started mounting the tank to the frame and not the bed, it wouldnt be hard to put the mounting holes in your bed but I wanted to give you a heads upYou would be correct.And here is the tank i have: Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted April 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 Thanks Z-Train! Any idea on the dimensions or capacity of your tank? Then I could measure and compare mine. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted April 30, 2013 Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 I can get the measurements and then it would be just a math equation.This is a factory made tank from a firm in SoCal back in the day.Unfortunately,the markings vanished when i had it douched & sealed.If memory serves it's 15 gallons. Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted April 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 Sounds good, I will measure mine and post up the results as well. Quote Link to comment
Farmer Posted May 1, 2013 Report Share Posted May 1, 2013 Never thought about using my engine hoist to remove the bed, Thanks. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted May 1, 2013 Report Share Posted May 1, 2013 Mine is a 78, not a big deal as it has a tank already :D Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted May 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2013 Never thought about using my engine hoist to remove the bed, Thanks. Be careful as the side of my bed got scratched up a little bit. I wasnt too worried about it because its pretty rusted out. Mine is a 78, not a big deal as it has a tank already :D True! It seems like a lot but I come up with ~22 gallons. The tank measures 33x12.5x13 and that comes out to 23.21 gallons and then take out a little for the small angled portion... I will hopefully get some work done on her when I get home tonight. My coilover brackets should be in any day now and I cant wait to get the front end buttoned up! UPS man dropped off new ball joints from RockAuto yesterday, wish I would have remembered to order my wheel bearings at the same time!! :facepalm: Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted May 2, 2013 Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 My tank measures 11.5 X 12.5 X 32.So they're close.Hmmm,maybe i'll have to look into retro-fitting this early tank to my 78. Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted May 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 It shouldn't be too difficult to make it fit. I will be putting a '79 tank in my '78 truck that had a bed mounted tank. I will keep you posted on the needed modifications. Yesterday I pressure washed the frame, bed, and under the hood. Today I will hopefully get some work done on my power steering setup. Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted May 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2013 I have an update... Got the steering column all mocked up but I think my steering box is about 3/4" too high... It looks like to be level with the idler arm it needs to drop 3/4" but I am not sure how to do that just yet... Any ideas? My steering column is a combination of a 620, Z car, and Hardbody steering components This is the Z car firewall plate tacked to the 620 plate. With the double u-joint setup I was concerned with the column getting "shoved" around while trying to turn so this will fix it to the firewall. RockAuto sent me the wrong idler arm... Its tuff to see from the picture but its about a half inch longer. Anyone know the torque specs of the top nut so I can transfer the inerds? Nothing is permanently fixed yet as I want to get the center link flipped and set the motor in to check for clearance issues. Any advice or constructive critisism welcome :D Quote Link to comment
kayakdude07 Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Project is looking good. :D What is your plan for flipping the center link now since the weld in inserts you got won't work? Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 Got the steering column all mocked up but I think my steering box is about 3/4" too high... It looks like to be level with the idler arm it needs to drop 3/4" but I am not sure how to do that just yet... Any ideas? Can you slot the mounting holes in the box? MAybe slot the idler and drop it down to match? That would give you more clearance at the pan for the centerlink. 1 Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted August 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2013 Not really a progress update but I did find the end of the rainbow when I was at Pull and Save last night!! Found that weber just chilling behind the drivers seat of the truck. Whats that sitting next to it in the picture? Could it be??.... Oh yes, yes it is!! Its a factory tach!! Dont mind the dust on it, this thing is pretty cherry and it was in a truck that had been at the yard for awhile. I litterally had to do a double take because I didnt believe it. But wait, theres more! Also scored some A/C components, unfortunately there wasnt a lot of that system left in the truck :/ Found a bunch of Datsun baggies in the glove box of another truck, dont really need them just thought they were cool. The group of baggies with the 3x5 card stapled to it contains a bunch of needles, jets, and random carb parts. Didnt want to hack up my harness to install the tach so I took the whole wiring harness too! Now I am on the hunt for the rest of the A/C system! If anyone has the parts, I might be willing to trade a nice little tach for them ;) 1 Quote Link to comment
Farmer Posted August 23, 2013 Report Share Posted August 23, 2013 That is a pot of gold. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted November 19, 2013 Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 bump...... :P Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted December 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 Progress to come in the near future! Adam you have motivated me to get back to work on this thing. Last night I picked up a running DE swap. With roughly 6 months to Canby '14, fingers crossed, I will actually make it!! 1 Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 if i can do it so can you!!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted September 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2014 Been a long time since the last update. I feel like I was one of the first to attempt the DE swap and now it feels like I will be one of the last to complete it. One of these days it will be on the road. Last fall I picked up another DE swap from a friend, this is an S14 engine that came out of an S13 car. I will be using my S13 wiring harness because I already stripped it down and labeled everything. Engine bolted in place. I feel like my S13 DE had more clearance at the firewall but I never bolted it in with the tranny attached. Trans crossmember, didnt take a before picture but you get the idea. Looks like the previous owner ran it into something. Up close picture of the elongated mounting holes Passenger side coil over mocked up. Those are Bee's brackets and upper control arms using RockAuto bushings, ball joints, and wheel bearings on 2WD hardbody spindles. It will be interesting to see how they look and ride with a load on them. Next up is wiring.... To be continued 4 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 6, 2014 Report Share Posted September 6, 2014 Found a bunch of Datsun baggies in the glove box of another truck, dont really need them just thought they were cool. The group of baggies with the 3x5 card stapled to it contains a bunch of needles, jets, and random carb parts. Always always always check the glove box. Owners often buy new parts and never get around to replacing the. Got a brand new $30 U joint this way. Didnt want to hack up my harness to install the tach so I took the whole wiring harness too! Always good to have a spare harness BUT. Your '78 will have the plug for the factory tach already there right above there the tach goes. It will be tied up and tapped to the harness. The ultimate plug 'n play.l 1 Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted September 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2014 Correct me if I'm wrong but cant most of the wiring be done from these two plugs (F8 and F9?)? I know the colors dont match, I cut them off of a 94 Maxima because I didnt have access to a 240. Quote Link to comment
Eric Garside Posted September 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 No response so I went with it, almost seems too easy to work... Here is the progress so far $10 worth of plugs and relays from Pull and Save, I had my skinny jeans on today so I couldnt fit them in my pockets... Because I cut these plugs off of a 94 Maxima (behind passenger headlight) the colors dont match and I had to trim this one a little Labeling the new plugs/wires Depinned the wires that werent going to be used On this one I also moved the thicker gauged wire to match up with the thick gauge from the engine harness Used Jeff's wiring diagram, factory Nissan relays, and a fuse block from Auto Zone... and a little bit of beer All this is temporary to make sure everything works, end of day one Let me know what you guys think 3 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Is this all the slotting required to run the KA trans? Quote Link to comment
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