510kevin Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 got my ka24de in my car, wired up and ready to go. cranked it over and checked for spark. i have spark. lights on can-am box come on, fuel pump runs and makes its fuel circulation. will not fire. after repeated cranking, theres no fuel in the cylinder, spark plugs are completely dry. any ideas? i dont hear the injectors clicking. and im getting frustrated!! Quote Link to comment
H5WAGON Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 Have you starting swearing at it? Neutral safety? I'm sure this heat don't help much!......:angry: Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 Not KA specific, but did you try giving it a little starting fluid down it`s throat ?? Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 not much help, but maybe look around on the site for some previous KA help by jeff, mentioned something about this one someone elses, where the CAS had something to do with it there issue? Ill try and find it again Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 bad ignition switch. If it is bad it will turn over but not start . try the one from your 620. mine went bad and to start it you had to get the key in just the right spot. Quote Link to comment
510kevin Posted September 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 bad ignition switch. If it is bad it will turn over but not start . try the one from your 620. mine went bad and to start it you had to get the key in just the right spot. really? ive never had problems with the switch before. im down for any suggestion though..... Quote Link to comment
Docsis510 Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 Maybe the fuel lines are backwords. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 Proper ground???? Quote Link to comment
510kevin Posted September 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 fuel lines are correct and all KNOWN grounds are connected. the 620 ignition switch changed nothing, and now the motor is dripping oil from the front cover all over my shop floor. im done for a few days :angry: Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 Believe I had the same issue on my Z24E....was an insufficient ground. But...... who knows........ :D Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 Do you have power to the injectors? The red wire should have power. The computer controls the other wire for injector pulse. Any chance you have a noid light to test injector pulse? Fuel pressure specs? I installed an inline guage before even attempting to fire my VG30. If the pressure is below spec, it will not fire. And i had a bad ignition switch when i went to fire up the VG30 for the first time. I had power to everything correct with the key on, but lost all that power in the start position. Should not be your problem though since you have spark. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 yes check the injectors they should be hot at all times on one side the other side should pulse I just use a cheapo light tester. and make sure your fuel lines arent backwards ka should have pressure on the return line. I had a bad fuel regulator ended up buying a adjustable unit with a guage so i could check and set my fuel pressure. may not be your issue buts its hella nice to know you got the right fuel pressure while trying to diagnose problems. Quote Link to comment
510kevin Posted September 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 went out and played with it a little. got it to start on starting fluid and run for a few minutes after. didnt let it run too long, but long enough to burn the ether off and use its own fuel. it would run and rev just fine(no exhaust) on its own power. what would make it not start without the ether? :huh: Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 Did you hook up the orange start wire? Quote Link to comment
510kevin Posted September 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 Did you hook up the orange start wire? yep Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 Yello620...said noid light....go to NAPA type store they will know which one to sell you .They make it easier for one person to see if injectors are getting juice. When we bought our 83 280zx turbo three of the six injectors were not working and with a noid you can wiggle wires and change things up and give it a quick crank, and instantly see if what you did had any effect. .Now that you have eliminated spark and timing at least your not chasing a dead end in those areas.. Jesus said to use light tester but sometimes they are hard to use...because hard to tell if flashing if bulb, is to big... but it might be worth a try Quote Link to comment
510kevin Posted September 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 Yello620...said noid light....go to NAPA type store they will know which one to sell you .They make it easier for one person to see if injectors are getting juice. When we bought our 83 280zx turbo three of the six injectors were not working and with a noid you can wiggle wires and change things up and give it a quick crank, and instantly see if what you did had any effect. .Now that you have eliminated spark and timing at least your not chasing a dead end in those areas.. Jesus said to use light tester but sometimes they are hard to use...because hard to tell if flashing if bulb, is to big... but it might be worth a try gonna go get a noid light friday morning. hope i can figure this one out, my head is about to explode!! Quote Link to comment
510kevin Posted September 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2011 alright. car is running!! but running like crap. high idle and running really rich. timing is at 20btdc with the tps unplugged(good) when i pinch the iacv hose, the idle comes down, but still stumbles when i try to give it fuel tried cleaning the iacv, no help. all known vacuum leaks are plugged. any thoughts? im so damn close.... Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted September 16, 2011 Report Share Posted September 16, 2011 got one of those vacuum meters to test and see what the vacuum suction pressure is? i dont know what it should read tho :\ (i really dont know wtf is wrong with your engine, just trying to help ollz) Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted September 16, 2011 Report Share Posted September 16, 2011 alright. car is running!! but running like crap. high idle and running really rich. timing is at 20btdc with the tps unplugged(good) when i pinch the iacv hose, the idle comes down, but still stumbles when i try to give it fuel tried cleaning the iacv, no help. all known vacuum leaks are plugged. any thoughts? im so damn close.... You cant set the timing properly until the idle is under control. I dealt with idle issues on my VG for a bit too. Is all of the crankcase vents properly run to the intake tube? That was one of my issues. Any air movement intake or crankcase must be metered through the MAF. I also dealt with pinching the idle control valve hose to get my idle to come down. Then i learned that the idle adjustment is on the side of the idle control valve, not in the throttle body. Can you post a good pic of the engine bay, showing the intake air tube and crankcase vents. Or is it running like it is missing a cylinder? Quote Link to comment
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