710 project thread

[Laecaon]

I still don't get why you are not going to use the L-18 bottom end ?

 

I would definitely run a SSS head with dual carbs on the L18. Instant higher compression. More displacement. Everything else bolts on, like the tranny.

[Will]

I wasn't sure what was wrong with the L18 before and I didn't have much time to work on my car and gather parts, so I just put in the L16 for now since I knew what was wrong with it.

 

I guessed that the L18's rings and valves were both pretty bad, but it turned out that the block was decent and the valves were awful.

 

 

I still don't get why you are not going to use the L-18 bottom end ?

 

 

 

[Will]

I'll check the rear brakes again... that could be it. I checked the shoes a few months ago and I adjusted them so that there was no drag, but maybe the shoes weren't seating properly.

 

I was going to say about the ebrake, I did the same thing with adjusting it. But then I found my rear brakes needed to be adjusted. Then it was too tight. So I would check your rear brakes.

 

 

 

[Will]

Lookit that! It's not empty anymore

...and when I connected the engine and transmission, I used more than two bolts! The previous owner used just two bolts on the crossmember and two to connect the engine and transmission. I'm lucky that it held together as long as it did.

 

Okay, now it's time for questions. which hose goes where for the heater core? Does it matter?

 

One of the lines from the fuel tank goes to this relic of emissions equipment long-removed. I moved it to the firewall to shorten its line, but I'm not sure if I can toss it entirely or block it off.

 

Here's the throttle linkage (Thanks Mike!) I thing I need to move the "L" shaped piece up a little, since the angle of the arm that goes towards the intake has changed from the stock carb setup. It binds now.

 

Oh, and I need to work out an air cleaner arrangement!

[datzenmike]

 

It should be mounted vertical. There are springs abd balls held by gravity... might work that way??? Right line to crankcase vent, left to air filter.

 

 

Heater hoses will work either way. Unless they started making left hand heat.

[Will]

I don't know - which is hotter, left-handed heat, or right-handed heat?

Syracuse is wicked cold.

 

Heater hoses will work either way. Unless they started making left hand heat.

[datzenmike]

Syracuse, I think I drove through there once... is it below Lake Champlain and sort of on the way to NYC if you were coming down from Kingston Ontario? Definitely in the summer. Probably gets lots of lake effect snow too. I lived just west of Niagra Falls between the lakes when I was about 8. Snow? you can't handle the snow.

[fisch]

The previous owner used just two bolts on the crossmember and two to connect the engine and transmission. I'm lucky that it held together as long as it did.

 

And you drove it across country that way! Crazy! (And Mo and Tom say 'Hi' back.)

[ggzilla]

All earlier Datsun struts have rebuildable glands. Starting around 1977 they introduced the insert cartridge.

 

yes, the Flow Guide Valve is always mounted vertically from what I've seen. The spring loading is supposed to counteract vapor pressure, but maybe it relies partly on gravity.

 

or, replace it with a carbon canister out of a 1975-up Datsun. They work better at fume control and only take three connections.

 

[Will]

Thanks for the illustration! - that's the part that had me confused. I remembered to bring just about everything that I needed except for my big stack of Datsun manuals, so its been nice to get help from Ratsun and some sites that have L16 manuals as PDFs

 

Before I installed it sideways I tried turning it as I blew into the fuel tank pipe, and it didn't seem to effect anything with the operation of the other pipes - they seem to be valves that trip whenever the pressure gets high enough.

 

 

All earlier Datsun struts have rebuildable glands. Starting around 1977 they introduced the insert cartridge.

 

yes, the Flow Guide Valve is always mounted vertically from what I've seen. The spring loading is supposed to counteract vapor pressure, but maybe it relies partly on gravity.

 

or, replace it with a carbon canister out of a 1975-up Datsun. They work better at fume control and only take three connections.

 

 

 

 

[Will]

Yeah - and on the engine, the two bolts were the ones on the bottom of the block - they missed the two that connect near the cylinder head, and the extra cast-iron brackets that connect to the block behind the oil pan weren't bolted to the trans either (the L18 has these brackets, but the L16 doesn't.)

 

And you drove it across country that way! Crazy! (And Mo and Tom say 'Hi' back.)

 

 

 

[Will]

Ha! Just about EVERYTHING is south of Lake Champlain!! I think you passed right by where I grew up and where my folks live - directly in the center of the state. Almost set a record for the least snow ever in Syracuse this year, but there was some on the ground in time for Christmas.

 

Oh, And I found out why my shift knob was always so close to the radio. I remembered your post about turning the transmissions's shift lever around, and sure enough it was turned to be farther away from the driver. The ZX 5-speed's lever is so close to the position of the automatic's floor shift that they barely needed to modify the opening, but my transmission isn't poking through the floor as much as yours did.

 

Syracuse, I think I drove through there once... is it below Lake Champlain and sort of on the way to NYC if you were coming down from Kingston Ontario? Definitely in the summer. Probably gets lots of lake effect snow too. I lived just west of Niagra Falls between the lakes when I was about 8. Snow? you can't handle the snow.

[Will]

The car fired up for the first time a little bit ago. Hooray!

 

I needed to switch the oil pressure switch, add some thick exhaust manifold washers to move the throttle linkage into the right position, the distributor seems a little off so I need to reposition the plate,and there is a tiny coolant leak (lower radiator hose, I think.) but everything seems within reach. It'll be my first time driving a car with dual carburettors - I'm really looking forward to it!

[ZackTheImpaler]

Feels great doesn't it! Kinda like scoring with a high school crush for the first time when they start.

 

 

The car fired up for the first time a little bit ago. Hooray!

 

[Will]

Yeah it's a great feeling to hear the engine run for the first time... but my crush involved less smoke and coughing noises!

 

The problem I'm having now is that I can't turn the distributor enough to get the engine to idle smoothly. I turned it all the way clockwise with both of the adjustment screws loosened, and it seemed like it needed to be turned a bit further.

 

When I was assembling everything I set the cam sprocket to the #2 position with 42 timing chain pins between the timing marks, then set the oil pump gear to the 11:25 position when I installed the oil pump, making sure that everything was at TDC.

 

Also, I'm getting some foggy whitish smoke - I'm hoping it is due to the humidity and the choke being pulled all the way out, and not weirdness with the head gasket!

 

Feels great doesn't it! Kinda like scoring with a high school crush for the first time when they start.

 

 

 

[Will]

Okay! Some success this morning. Kinda.

 

I got it running smoothly, and without any smoke (Luckily!! I really didn't want to put on another head gasket - looks like it was just the weird humidity in the air last night. Weird Syracuse weather - it looks like springtime outside!)

 

My only problem now is that the only way that I could get it to run smoothly was to remove both of the distributor's adjustment bolts - the regular adjustment bolt, and the one that holds the adjustment plate in place and turn the distributor clockwise until the two bolt positions were almost touching.

 

Looks like I'll need to drop out the oil pump and move the gear a tooth or two to one side.

[Will]

Ah, rats. Looks like I'm going to have to concede defeat for now.

 

I figured out what was happening with the distributor - the gear was at 12:32 instead of 11:25, so I was able to get the timing set up ...but I was getting white smoke again. And coolant dripping from my exhaust pipe and muffler. Looks like the 710 will be parked in Syracuse for a while - I won't have the time until spring break to tear the engine apart, figure out the problem, and install a new head gasket.

 

I totally need to use the time to track down a new transmission mount too - it was clunking pretty bad when I tested the car out this morning!

[datzenmike]

Morning will. Sure it's the tranny mount? Could be loose shock, exhaust hitting, My favorite was the spare tire loose and swinging on the chain.

 

Did you get your dash, dying to know.

[Will]

I'm pretty sure it's the transmission - it seemed really cracked and dry rotted when I had everything apart, and I noticed worn spots on the crossmember from where it was rubbing.

 

 

The package is on its way from Ottawa right now - I was expecting it while I was here, but it should arrive in the next few days. I'll have my folks place it in the Datsun so that I can try a new head gasket and put the dash together next time I visit.

 

On the plus side, it won't get hit by a snowplow in Brooklyn this winter!

 

When you're torquing down a cylinder head, do you go by the factory specs? My L16 manual called for 62.5 ft-lbs, so that's what I went with, in three stages (35ft-lbs-50ft-lbs-62.5ft-lbs if I remember correctly, using a fel-pro gasket. Maybe I should have put it on tighter?

 

 

 

Morning will. Sure it's the tranny mount? Could be loose shock, exhaust hitting, My favorite was the spare tire loose and swinging on the chain.

 

Did you get your dash, dying to know.

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

When you're torquing down a cylinder head, do you go by the factory specs? My L16 manual called for 62.5 ft-lbs, so that's what I went with, in three stages (35ft-lbs-50ft-lbs-62.5ft-lbs if I remember correctly, using a fel-pro gasket. Maybe I should have put it on tighter?

 

That's fine will. In this sequence starting in the middle squeezing to the outsides.... then 50 and a final 60-62.5.

 

RAD

7--8

3--4

1--2

5--6

9-10

 

You should not have to re-torque them.

[Will]

I was having trouble finding a ZX transmission mount for a decent price - most were 50-60 dollars, but then I found them for 13 dollars at this site:

 

http://www.partstrai...9/WSEM2741.html

 

 

 

Bargain!!

Shipping was super fast too.

[Will]

Long time no update...

 

I picked up some 160J fenders - the airline put a dew small dents in them, but they should clean up okay

 

Also, I've been working on an air cleaner that will clear the brake booster - this one is made from a Z car's air cleaner with the back cut off and the back plate from a 411 grafted on, and the hinges switched to the opposite side. Hopefully it will work. I wanted to make something that looked similar to a stock housing.

The MIG welder at work had me fondly remembering the days when I had access to a TIG welder!

[Will]

I've been thinking about getting a new coat of paint (either #302 Leaf Green or 113 Green Metallic.)

 

Maybe I should go with Maaco, since I have a coupon for ultraviolent sunscreen:

 

 

In 2 weeks I'll finally have some time off from work to get the 710 back on the road. I'm really looking forward to spending a week in the garage.

[datzenmike]

I've been thinking about getting a new coat of paint (either #302 Leaf Green or 113 Green Metallic.)

 

Maybe I should go with Maaco, since I have a coupon for ultraviolent sunscreen:

 

 

In 2 weeks I'll finally have some time off from work to get the 710 back on the road. I'm really looking forward to spending a week in the man cave.

 

fixed

[Will]

double-fixed.