610 street demon resurection

[zerow]

lose the reflectors on the back - they never really last long anyway.

 

get some 'Blue Magic' http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/blue_magic/products/210/

 

This stuff kicked more ass than Mothers, IMHO. I could eat off the back bumper of the sedan. And then pick up some chrome ended carriage bolts, to finish the deal. Hella sweet, and a great rainy day project!

[bonvo]

lose the reflectors on the back - they never really last long anyway.

 

get some 'Blue Magic' http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/blue_magic/products/210/

 

This stuff kicked more ass than Mothers, IMHO. I could eat off the back bumper of the sedan. And then pick up some chrome ended carriage bolts, to finish the deal. Hella sweet, and a great rainy day project!

 

i plan to ditch the reflectors as for the blue magic if the chrome on these was salvagable i would but there are spots where its peeling up and they both need to be straitend (the front more then the back) so they will have to be rechromed anyway but i do have a 56 chevy that has lot of chrome...........*gets lost in thought*

[bonvo]

progress today i came out this morning and gound the "rust converter" flaking off and more rust starting to form :eek: so i got that shit off the car and back to bare metal i removed the rest of the chrome trims around the back window to get in closer with my rust stripper sanded down the original paint on the right quarter and painted the upper half of it in red the lower half will be eather satin black or a dark blue i also removed the chrome trims arounf the back glass on shelly and sure the fuck enough where its rusted on the new one its not on shelly :D sorry for no pics by the time i finished it was already dark out

[Cuts metal like mad]

you have to seal the area you use the rust converter on... rustoleum works well enough.

[bonvo]

i know that i was following the directions that said wait 24 hours

[Cuts metal like mad]

did you wire wheel it first?

[bonvo]

yeah im thinking i just got a bad can

[Guest jaimesix]

Bonvo.

 

Your rear bumper looks like it needs some straightening. That is not expensive, a good bumper guy can re shape it for 40 bucks.

 

Nice work. Today I worked on my 710 myself. I took off the radio it had in its dash. It was a non original Radio Shack radio, it was not bolted on, I found out it was just put in place and held there against 2 old speakers...the magnetic powers of the speakers keept the speakers and the radio in place, like a magnetic brace....clever contraption...but not a good one in the long run.

 

The slightly moving radio cracked the dash board a bit...fortunately I got myself another dash from a wreckers 710 a while ago as spare:)

 

I will ditch the radio and install 3 gauges in its place. I want no radio there....I will install a radio below, in the opening of the console down by and in front of the shifter.

 

Those speakers....I do not know how those could emit sound....:confused: those looked so old, dried up, and beyond hope....

 

Jaime.___________________________________________________

[bonvo]

Bonvo.

 

Your rear bumper looks like it needs some straightening. That is not expensive, a good bumper guy can re shape it for 40 bucks.

 

Nice work. Today I worked on my 710 myself. I took off the radio it had in its dash. It was a non original Radio Shack radio, it was not bolted on, I found out it was just put in place and held there against 2 old speakers...the magnetic powers of the speakers keept the speakers and the radio in place, like a magnetic brace....clever contraption...but not a good one in the long run.

 

The slightly moving radio cracked the dash board a bit...fortunately I got myself another dash from a wreckers 710 a while ago as spare:)

 

I will ditch the radio and install 3 gauges in its place. I want no radio there....I will install a radio below, in the opening of the console down by and in front of the shifter.

 

Those speakers....I do not know how those could emit sound....:confused: those looked so old, dried up, and beyond hope....

 

Jaime.___________________________________________________

 

yeah i just got to find a good bumper guy :D the back isnt so bad i could probibly do that one myself its the front one that needs alot of love ill try and get a pic of it tomorrow to show you guys once i find a good bumper guy ill have them delt with

 

this car still has the original radio im not sure what im gonna do yet it depends on what console i end up using i still have the sedan one i got from william with the vents and such seperate and i now have another coupe one if i can get the coupe one to work the stock radio will stay for looks and ill put my aftermarket one in the console if i cant use that then the stock radio will be replaced

[sliding_creep]

i'm glad i stumbled across this thread! the new ride looks friggin' AWESOME!!! slow builds are best, i rushed through mine on my 610 and it looks it. that notch crapolla-rolla with the homeless ass build kept me in stitches. DATTOS EFFIN' RULE!!! hope to see ya on the road chief!

 

cheers

[bonvo]

thanks sliding creep its comming along man im not rushing it but i am trying to get it done you know cause no car fro 3 months is starting to bug me :mellow:

 

progress i removed a good amount of surface rust on the roof today and started to paint it but ran out of paint here are a few pics

 

you can see where i started to run out of paint in this one

 

i also cleaned up the front bumper today took everything off to get a better idea of what it will need i might be able to fix it myself

Edited March 20, 2009 by bonvo

[sliding_creep]

thanks sliding creep its comming along man im not rushing it but i am trying to get it done you know cause no car fro 3 months is starting to bug me :mellow:

 

progress i removed a good amount of surface rust on the roof today and started to paint it but ran out of paint here are a few pics

 

you can see where i started to run out of paint in this one

 

i also cleaned up the front bumper today took everything off to get a better idea of what it will need i might be able to fix it myself

 

it's the very antithesis of my "slippery green booger":D it's gonna be sooo cool when it's done! lemme know if ya need any spares as i get around to all the wreckers near me and sometimes find some good stuff! oh, i still have the bumpers off mine if anyone needs 'em.

i'll try to get some pics this weekend before or at the local cruise and post'em in the "610's unite!" thread so you can get a look at a way too fast "tiger-stripe" spray job! LOL!

 

cheers

[Hyphy]

Shoulda caught this thread a day or so ago...no way in hell anything that retails for 8 bucks is gonna stop rust. rattle can paint can help prevent, but thats as close as you'll get. I actually swung by Downing a few days ago and picked up another bottle of Rust Mort which, in my opinion, is the best product to use. It will convert and is sandable/paintable. Really easy to use.

 

Sometime soon Ill have to swing by with it and show you whats up and take a look-see at what you got goin already.

 

BTW, are you rattle cannin to bare metal?

[bonvo]

Shoulda caught this thread a day or so ago...no way in hell anything that retails for 8 bucks is gonna stop rust. rattle can paint can help prevent, but thats as close as you'll get. I actually swung by Downing a few days ago and picked up another bottle of Rust Mort which, in my opinion, is the best product to use. It will convert and is sandable/paintable. Really easy to use.

 

Sometime soon Ill have to swing by with it and show you whats up and take a look-see at what you got goin already.

 

BTW, are you rattle cannin to bare metal?

 

yeah i know i got rid of that shit lo what im doing is taking it down to bare metal then hitting it with filler primer then sandable primer then rattle can this is not ment to be perminant this is until the insurance comes threw and i can get a real paint job this rattle can will be sanded and primered over but for now im filling little dents and removing rust this is temporary and wont stay here long im just removing the surface rust and preventing it from comming back

 

ive heard about rust mort but never used it before how much does it cost at downings?

[Cuts metal like mad]

if you plan on doing a real paint job you should stop now... it won't like sticking to the paint from a rattle can.

[bonvo]

im not just gonna leave the rust there and let it get worse its just not gonna happen i would rather throw this on there now then remove it all when i get it ready for real paint then let it continue to rust

[fisch]

Bonvo, my bro-inlaw who has been restoring classic cars professionally for 20 years swears by this stuff.

 

MAster Series Silver

 

http://nomorerust.com/silver.htm

 

I used a can on my 521 and it is pretty amazing. Looks Sandblasted! This will stop your rust and be a great surface to get your final paint on top of.

 

THis is sun light stable where as Por-15 isn't UV resistant.

 

I was in the same boat as you. I just wanted to stop the rust from getting any worse. With this you can stop it, leave it as long as you like, and have a great surface when you are ready to paint. But if you get this on your skin it will take forever to get off!

 

It is $27 a quart, but a quart lasts a long time.And you can put it on with a sponge brush, and it self levels.

 

I wrote a whole thread about it here:

 

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=3285&highlight=master+series+silver

[Hyphy]

Yea, basically wat were all sayin is.....

 

Stopping rust is fine, but takkin it down to bare and then sprayin it with can crap isnt gonna work. To get it right, you;d have to take it back down to bare.....again. What you do need to do is, use a converter on the rust. That should stop it from advancing. Cover any bare metal to keep it from starting to rust. These steps would keep ur rust problem at bay until you are ready to shot the problem areas/bare metal with an epoxy primer and then a sealer primer. This would be the best way to handle those.

 

Albeit I used a rattle can metal primer myself. I knew what i was doing and why. Any attempt your know you are gonna make to get even a remotely profession paint job done will be hampered by the rattle can stuff.

 

It also kinda sucks you cant pull that baby into your garage. Tryin to do bady work that gets you to bare metal and havin to leave it outside sucks if your not knockin it all out at once.

[bonvo]

yeah i know that im doubling my work in the long run but im doing what i know works and what i can afford at the moment these are the same steps i did on my 56 pickup and its been almost 2 years since then and the rattle can hasent even faded i know im doing things the hard way but its the only way i can afford i dont have the cash to spring for a gun and compresser atm so for now it works i know you guys are trying to save me labor and time but when thats all i got to work with it kinda works this is just prevention it will all come back off some day for a real paint job but i can live with it for now

 

hyphy im definatly interested in the rust mort though i wanna see how well this stuff works

[Hyphy]

are you mobile at all? can u swing by my place tonight after 6?

[Guest jaimesix]

Bonvo, my bro-inlaw who has been restoring classic cars professionally for 20 years swears by this stuff.

 

MAster Series Silver

 

http://nomorerust.com/silver.htm

 

I used a can on my 521 and it is pretty amazing. Looks Sandblasted! This will stop your rust and be a great surface to get your final paint on top of.

 

THis is sun light stable where as Por-15 isn't UV resistant.

 

I was in the same boat as you. I just wanted to stop the rust from getting any worse. With this you can stop it, leave it as long as you like, and have a great surface when you are ready to paint. But if you get this on your skin it will take forever to get off!

 

It is $27 a quart, but a quart lasts a long time.And you can put it on with a sponge brush, and it self levels.

 

I wrote a whole thread about it here:

 

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=3285&highlight=master+series+silver

 

 

Just to make a note. POR 15 is UV rated. You have to make sure which POR 15 you are using. POR15 non UV rated can be used in areas that receive no direct sun light/UV rays.

 

POR 15 has what it calls "Top Coats". These top coats, as per POR 15 literature ( I have a catalog, Zerow, you have one too, you can read that in the catalog, were the top coats are ) are UV rated, yet retain all the characteristics POR 15 plain paint has ( the one which is non UV rated.

 

On areas exposed to sun light, you can use POR 15 Top Coat paint. I purchased a can of POR 15 frame paint, satin black, for those areas exposed.

You can chose between glossy black, satin black, and silver, if I remember correctly.

I can get to my catalog later on for direct quotes.

 

Jaime.______________________________________________________

[fisch]

Just to make a note. POR 15 is UV rated. You have to make sure which POR 15 you are using. POR15 non UV rated can be used in areas that receive no direct sun light/UV rays.

 

POR 15 has what it calls "Top Coats". These top coats, as per POR 15 literature ( I have a catalog, Zerow, you have one too, you can read that in the catalog, were the top coats are ) are UV rated, yet retain all the characteristics POR 15 plain paint has ( the one which is non UV rated.

 

On areas exposed to sun light, you can use POR 15 Top Coat paint. I purchased a can of POR 15 frame paint, satin black, for those areas exposed.

You can chose between glossy black, satin black, and silver, if I remember correctly.

I can get to my catalog later on for direct quotes.

 

Jaime.______________________________________________________

 

Thanks for the correction Jamie. I was pulling info from the por 15 website on their undercoat, not the top coat. So you can use the top coat without the undercoat? Or would you still have to use the undercoat first?

[Guest jaimesix]

Hi.

 

According to the catalog, and to the POR 15 guy on the line ( I called to order some products for my project, including their putty and filler items to fill gaps in body seams..) POR 15 top coat can be used as regular POR 15. In fact, it is also POR 15.

 

Let's read what the catalog says:

 

From page 12 , POR 15 Catalog

 

FOR POR 15 & OTHER FINISHES.

Use any of these specialized top coats over POR 15 for the toughest most permanent protection against rust and corrosionever developed. They wont crak, chip or peel and look terrific!

 

These top coats have attributes similar to POR 15 Rust Preventive coating, but with no sensitivity to UV light. All are highly flexible, non porous, extremely scratch and chip-resistant and strengthened by exposure to moisture.

 

These top coats come in these colors

 

1) Stirling Silver. Medium gloss.

2) Black Cote. Glossy black

3) Chassis Coat Black. Smooth satin semi-gloss finish.

 

 

I understand it is a little strange, but I think the reason is POR 15 is to be used on areas away from direct sun rays, or on areas that will receive a coat of paint, not necesarily POR top coat, but any coat of paint.

 

 

This is POR 15's phone number, anyone can call and request a catalog, a must for any serious restorer or a serious enthusiast:

 

1-800-457-6715

 

(*) POR 15 web site:

 

http://www.por15.com

[fisch]

Hi.

 

According to the catalog, and to the POR 15 guy on the line ( I called to order some products for my project, including their putty and filler items to fill gaps in body seams..) POR 15 top coat can be used as regular POR 15. In fact, it is also POR 15.

 

Let's read what the catalog says:

 

From page 12 , POR 15 Catalog

 

 

 

 

 

These top coats come in these colors

 

1) Stirling Silver. Medium gloss.

2) Black Cote. Glossy black

3) Chassis Coat Black. Smooth satin semi-gloss finish.

 

 

I understand it is a little strange, but I think the reason is POR 15 is to be used on areas away from direct sun rays, or on areas that will receive a coat of paint, not necesarily POR top coat, but any coat of paint.

 

 

This is POR 15's phone number, anyone can call and request a catalog, a must for any serious restorer or a serious enthusiast:

 

1-800-457-6715

 

(*) POR 15 web site:

 

http://www.por15.com

 

Neat! I had no idea the Por 15 top coat could be used alone w/o the under. Seems counter intuitive, but that's great news! Cool! Thanks Jamie

[Cuts metal like mad]

no sunlight? under carpet? :D Trunk?