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H165


Icehouse

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Will a late 210 h165 diff fit into an Ute H165 axle housing? Is the spline count the same? 4.11 gears suck! I would like to install the 3.545's. Or anything around there. I like hauling ass down the freeway. With the current gears I can barely keep up with traffic!

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Ute??? Like those 1200/trucks from Oz??? Had my L18 H-165 with 4.11s to just on 90 MPH coming back from Canby in 2010.

 

The pushrod A series can take the revs. so if it won't go '70 then it won't have the power to pull more with a taller gear either.

 

 

I can look up the side gear part numbers for N Am vehicles and compare them.

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Dave do you know what the gear ratio of the diff you have laying around is? It has to be out of an HL 510? I want the 3.545 gears bad!!! I know the engine will handle it but it drives me insane :) I like to go around 80mph. She sounds like she's going to blow around that speed haha.

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I wouldn't want to drive an A12 with 3.5 gears. Even the 3.9 is slow compared to 4.11s.

 

Yes, the gears lying in front of my house are 3.545 H165, but they are already spoken for. It took me to a year to find them. They are from a 1979 A10, not the 1970 HL510.

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I agree a 14% drop is big but the wheel tire combo is smaller than stock so I'm gaining even more RPM's. What is an A10? A 200sx or something? Is the spline count the same? Shit if it doesn't have enough power I will boost it :)

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I agree a 14% drop is big but the wheel tire combo is smaller than stock so I'm gaining even more RPM's. What is an A10? A 200sx or something? Is the spline count the same?

 

To keep in perspective the dogleg 5th gear is 15% over drive.

 

 

Shit if it doesn't have enough power I will boost it :)

 

Atta boy!!!

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I bought Rich's truck!!!!!!! I love it!!! Needs so work not even including the increased gear ratio :) I need to lower it, According to the tape measure it needs a 5" drop in the rear and 3" in the front to be tolerable. Which I can just machine some blocks at work, but 5 inches is a little more block than I want. Should I just get the leafs re-arched? I don't really know what else I could do that wouldn't make it ride like shit. I don't want the spring rate any less in the rear, I'm only going to have around 2 inches of suspension travel until I C-notch the rear. So if I did something like remove leafs the axle will smack the frame all the time, been there done that. Which I don't like. Any ideas?

 

 

photo.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I like the 390's in my coupe. But then again I don't think the engine is stock

 

Coupe? Or you mean two door?

 

 

 

A10 is the 1978-1981 Datsun 510, the 2nd-gen Nissan Violet. Marketed as "Stanza" in some countries.

 

Well if Dave doesn't have one I'm going to have to start hunting for one of those diffs.

 

To keep in perspective the dogleg 5th gear is 15% over drive.

 

Dang I used to have a 5 speed to!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

Will Check when Im back in Puyallup. Its out of my Pumpkn, when it had an A12 and a 4sp...

 

Nice :)

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Congrats!!! I'd try a leaf shuffle first and see if it needs blocks after that. We got about a 3-4" drop on the Backwoods 521 with that alone. I fabbed a panard bar which made a noticeable improvement. I've got 2" blocks on stock springs on my 1200. The front springs are just clipped stockers. Tire size is 195/45-14. Here's a stance pic for reference.

19776.jpg

I think datsunfreak was working on a 510 IRS swap. I know you have da skeelz :cool: .

 

On the ratio -- I ran the stock 3.90s for 6 years with an A12/4speed, A12/dogleg, A15/dogleg. I recently stepped up to an H150 (center) with 3.70s. The car is much more civilized now. I'd love to try a set of 3.54s if they were available.

 

Build thread. Immediately!

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Nice!5 inch blocks will ride OK, but won't corner very well. Re-arching is called for, and notchingOr better yet:S14 into 1200

 

I could upgrade the rear suspension but I don't really want to at this time. I would rather just get the stance right and roll it. Later I can re build it if I need to go lower. Right now I just want to sort out the high RPM problem and get it low. How do I convert it from a cable driven clutch release system to a hydraulic? Is there any write-ups on the 1200 sight?

 

 

Nope I mean coupe datsun1200libre-03.jpgCan you flip and add a leaf to lower it like a car?

 

 

I think that is what I will start with. See how many low that gets me and go from there. Fine tune it with some custom blocks.

 

 

2eDeYe' date='01 August 2011 - 07:13 AM' timestamp='1312207980' post='522498']

Ohhhh now I get it :lol:

 

Yeah so I need to sell some rigs. I got way to many. It would be cool to see you build the 620 to it's full potential.

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Congrats!!! I'd try a leaf shuffle first and see if it needs blocks after that. We got about a 3-4" drop on the Backwoods 521 with that alone. I fabbed a panard bar which made a noticeable improvement. I've got 2" blocks on stock springs on my 1200. The front springs are just clipped stockers. Tire size is 195/45-14. Here's a stance pic for reference.

19776.jpg

I think datsunfreak was working on a 510 IRS swap. I know you have da skeelz :cool: .

 

On the ratio -- I ran the stock 3.90s for 6 years with an A12/4speed, A12/dogleg, A15/dogleg. I recently stepped up to an H150 (center) with 3.70s. The car is much more civilized now. I'd love to try a set of 3.54s if they were available.

 

Build thread. Immediately!

 

 

That's what I want! Nice low cruising RPMs I hate the sound of an engine wound up for an hour while driving to work.

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Right now I just want to sort out the high RPM problem

5-speed is the go. If you fit a higher diff ratio, you accleration peformance goes down. But of course it will work if you like to go slow. With a 5-speed you win both ways.

 

 

How do I convert it from a cable driven clutch release system to a hydraulic? Is there any write-ups on the 1200 sight?

Not yet, only a couple of people have done it. Take photos so you can tell us how it goes.

 

All you have to do is:

1. cut the oval out, it's already cast in place

2. fit a hydraulic clutch release arm. Throwout bearing and spring are the same, only the fork is different.

3. Drill and tap the holes for the slave cylinder (boss is already there)

4. Fit master, slave and lines

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My Sunny Truck has the stock cable-operated clutch.

 

To fit a USA-spec 5-speed you can either:

* Find a 60-series transmission release arm for the cable clutch

or

* Find the Master and Lines. Then cut out and tap holes for the master and connect it all up.

 

 

Here's a pic of my truck with stock 56-series 4-speed

23589.jpg

You can drill & tap the boss for the slave cylinder.

 

Here's a pic of US-spec 60-series 5-speed:

23588.jpg

Just cut out the oval to use with the cable. You will only need a different release lever. Throwout bearing and spring are the same, only the fork is different. Tt is different from the 56-series (ribbed transmissions) that came stock in the 1200s.

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