Looking for rebuilder reviews

[_A2_]

Has anyone ever bought a rebuilt engine from Datsun Parts LLC (www.datsunpartsllc.com)

 

I've watched their listings on ebay for awhile and am seriously considering purchasing one of their rebuilt L20B for one of my 620's.

 

Just wondered if any of y'all knew about them, or possibly could recommend a company that sells complete engines.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

A2

 

 

 

Chebo at work

San Marcos, TX

[Dime Dave]

I would ask them the tough questions like warantee policy, do they do the work in-house (machining, assembly, etc), what is delivery policy, core charges? What actually is done to the engine and what new parts are used.

 

Ask if the parts listed below are new. In a good quality re-build they should be.

timing chain & guides

valves

valve guides (if worn)

valve springs

valve seals

rod & main bearings

pistons

wrist pins

rings

rod bolts

main bolts

head bolts

freeze plugs

oil pump

gaskets and seals

 

The following may not be new, but should be reconditioned which includes checking for straightness and magnafluxing of the re-used parts.

rockers

camshaft

connecting rods

crankshaft, polished at minimum, reground if needed

block, cleaned, checked for cracks, bored or honed and decked, line bore if non matching main caps are installed

Head, valve job per FSM, guides checked and/or replaced, resuface both sides of head, spring pressures checked and shimmed

 

On eof the most critical items that can destroy an L series engine if not done properly is setting lash pad thickness, especially after a valve job. This is a MUST DO and can wipe out cams and rockers if not done properly.

 

I do not beleive their engines are done in-house and if not ask who does do the work.

 

Basically use common sense and if you do not like 100% of the answers you are getting, walk away. An engine re-build IMO should be done by someone you can put 100% trust in. I do my own race engeines and have only built one engine for another person, even though I have over 25 years experiance doing it.

[albyneau]

Never done business there, but I've been building engines for darned near 40 years, and $1800 (plus shipping?) is too much~ especially when there's no mention of whether they're using QUALITY parts or china shelf stuff....

 

Scott

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

just do the basics.

1500 is a average price dpending on how much needs to be replaced.

But one can get away with 800 builds also.

basice head job and a rering if stuff is good.

timming chain kit and gaskets.

olddatsuns.com the tech section read there

[Skib]

I think hes on Ratsun

[racerx]

I got lucky like 3 years ago and bought a rebuilt engine on Ebay from Engine Manfucaturer back east for like $800, incl. s/h, NO Core required and they delivered to my house. Been running ood so far...

[d510addict]

I've been sourcing parts for the most part myself and here is what I've spent so far on a l20b rebuild:

 

$806 on machining which included: magnafluxing everything in the block, checking crank for tolerences, balancing crank and flywheel, polishing crank, line bore, decked, sourcing flywheel (done by machine shop) including resurface, bored .030 over, sourcing pistons and bearings and pressing pistons onto rods. This also including hot tanking the block/oil pan/ front cover.

 

$100 for full timing kit

 

$55 full gasket set

 

.....I still need to buy a clutch kit (I need suggestions on this one please)

 

$50 on gasket sealer stuff for front cover and oil pan/paint for pan and block/assembly lube

 

$$$ god knows how much I am going to have to spend to replace this stupid non progressive holley carb IF I cannot get this holley 5200 (32/36 webber copy) to fit under the hood (probably wont as it seems to sit taller than the crap v8 holley that is on the l16 now and that with a 3 inch tall air cleaner is very very close to the hood)

 

Since I am doing the labor myself on assembly thats $350ish saved (quoted from machine shop)

 

$50 to have cylinder head (was recently rebuild just sat forever) tanked, checked for flatness and have .003 taken off to make the surface flat at the cylinder head shop.

 

that is a ton of money right there alone, having a head completely redone is $$$$ and having to do all that running around cost a ton of gas.

 

I'm going out on a limb and saying their price is suspiciously low and quality of parts and completeness of job would be to blame.

[_A2_]

Hey thanks y'all, there's some good advice here.

 

I don't have the time to rebuild one myself because I am working alot, but since I am working alot I do have the money to spend on a rebuilt engine.

 

Having some idea of what to look for and ask about has helped all ready. I've spoken with two different shops in Austin and have a couple to call in San Antonio this week.

 

Thanks again,

 

A2

 

 

[ezcruiser]

Here is someone that bought from Datsun Parts LLC and had nothing but troubles and no customer/technical support:

Datsun Parts LLC Engine Purchase

 

Bad news, dropped the oil pan and found metal shavings, some real fine and then a few little junks that I can feel between my fingers.

 

Looks like I'm gonna have to get ahold the guy that built this thing... I've had nothing but trouble with this motor.

 

since day one this piece of crap has done nothing but been trouble, I swear I bought this motor about a year and half ago something like that, and haven't put 500 miles on it, at first it set in the garage until I finished the truck, then when I put it in, I couldn't get it to run right, because it dropped a valve, paid to ship it back to Al(datsun parts llc) and he fixed it, I got it running right, but then the truck set, I would take it out for a spin once in a blue moon, then... the truck was parked forever, decided to get a sidedraft... and put it on and would take it for a spin on the weekend sometimes. Then the 4 barrel idea came up, got that going... and boom, not even 10 miles on it with that setup. I've never red lined or drove this truck as hard as it should be able to be driven. I have yet been able to enjoy this truck because of this damn motor, yeah it looks good in the driveway but thats it. I paid a crap load of money for this motor and have put much more into it because of its problems. I know alot of people would say I should have built it myself, but I really didn't know enough to do it myself. I could pull it off now that I have all of you, DMT, to help me. You live and learn. And oh how I've learned from buying this big mistake.

 

Zero tech support and zero customer support.

 

Hope that helps your decision to buy or not! :blink:

[banzai510(hainz)]

Was the oil pump primed first before startup? maybe there where the meatal shavings came from?

[ezcruiser]

Was the oil pump primed first before startup? maybe there where the meatal shavings came from?

 

Aftermath pictures of the oil pan contents:

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

I have to assume the engline builder done his job correctly.

But new owner has to be certain that the oil pump is full and everything is lubed up before start up.

 

I have ASSEMBLED 2 motors that a machine shop put the lower end together. start up everyti me and no shavings.

 

 

I seen another engine builder with good rep and he put together a motor and I showed up. But we started talking( I was new to Datsuns myself)GOT DISTRACTED and forpot to prime the pump, he started the motor and then relized why he got no oil pressure. By the time he figured it out dropped the pump there was metal shaving already in the oil.

[Rubberman]

A 2 do your research, research and then some more research. I wish I new more of what I was doing back when I bought mine. There was so many other options for me but I didn't take the time to look into them and I'm greatly regreting it now. If you can, build it yourself, if not, then try to find someone local to you. If I had to pay to get a motor built again (which I'll do myself next time with help), I'd pay one of the guys on here (Hainz, Skib and some others) or from the DMT (Knotty, Braden, Ez and some others) Do your research and make up your own mind. You can look at my adventure here with my LZ22 http://www.datsunminitruckin.com/ole-blue-build_topic47.html

[Rubberman]

I have to assume the engline builder done his job correctly.

But new owner has to be certain that the oil pump is full and everything is lubed up before start up.

 

I have ASSEMBLED 2 motors that a machine shop put the lower end together. start up everyti me and no shavings.

 

 

I seen another engine builder with good rep and he put together a motor and I showed up. But we started talking( I was new to Datsuns myself)GOT DISTRACTED and forpot to prime the pump, he started the motor and then relized why he got no oil pressure. By the time he figured it out dropped the pump there was metal shaving already in the oil.

We all know what assuming gets you. Hainz I can see by chance one type of failure with a rebuilt motor, but then another, so after repairs are made, should I expect another, and then another. When does it end? When should the builder take full responsibility, after 3 failures? 4 or 5? or never, makes no sense to me

And the oil pressure was to spec at initial startup

[ezcruiser]

This warranty covers defective parts and items sent incorrectly. NO LABOR COSTS incurred by the purchaser are covered for any part sold by Datsun Parts LLC. In the event that the part is defective we will first attempt to replace it and if a replacement cannot be sent we will issue a refund for the sale amount not including the shipping. Subject to the limitations set forth below, Datsun Parts LLC., expressly warrants 30 days the merchantability of the part as specifically described on the invoice accompanying such part. Engines and Heads are guaranteed against excessive smoke and oil consumption, and inadequate oil pressure. Oil/fluid leaks, fuel components, engine cooling systems, and exhaust systems are not covered by this warranty unless proven that they were a result in the part purchased. In order to make a warranty claim on an engine or head, you must provide a record of the date installed, type of vehicle installed in, mileage, and engine number.

 

In addition, failure to do any of the following things voids the warranty. (i) Install a new water pump, and thermostat at the same time the engine or head is installed. (ii) Change the oil filter and oil prior to starting the engine, change the oil after the first 600 miles, and change the oil once every 3000 miles thereafter. (iii) Flow-check the radiator and repair it if necessary. (v) Front and rear main seals were be replaced on engines. All engines must be installed by an A.S.E. certified mechanic or other licensed professional shop for warranty to be valid.

 

Via datsunpartsllc.com

[banzai510(hainz)]

Rubberman.

Its a close call. It can happen.

 

I bought a rebuilt L18 back in the day for 550. Find out it was rebuilt in Thailand.

after 50K miles its smoked bad(lots of blowby) I know this cause I was running sidedrafts and open crank case the vent. at stopo lights I would be smoked out.

when I took the motor apart every piston wall had a scrap up/down. So i figure they gapped all the rings wrong as they were all in the same place.

 

I guess I could have went back to the place but by then NO MORE L motors and I think its only a 1 year warrenty anyways.

 

Key is taken it to the right place. But as time goes on more parts like piston are made in taiwan and some quastionable parts. But I have taiwan piston on my l16 and its fine. But if I had a choice I wouldnt get them again if I knew the shop was going to get those Instead of Japmade ones.

 

 

My L18 Im sure I could have got more miles out of it if I hooked up a PCV hose and a 32/36 on the and route a valve cover hose to intake. But I just pulled the motor and replaced it.

 

I get my blocks done at Autosport Seattle guy name is Terri and they do all the machine work for the Mercedes dealers in the seattle area also.So I call him as GOOD. Im sure hes OK with the Heads also

But O had 2 other places do my Head and they were OK also.

[Rubberman]

Heres alittle update for anyone thinking of buying anything off this guy, Al (Datsun Parts LLC). He did offer to rebuild the motor with me paying for the shipping cost, which isn't cheap fom Tennessee to Cali, so I figured as much trouble as I was having from the motor and Al. I just decided to get someone local to me that knows these motors to rebuild it and figure leasoned learned and move on. Of course if I knew them back then, then I wouldn't have this problem, but the machine shop knows what this motor is and what should be in it. The first thing they do is contact me to let me know that the cam thats in the motor is a stock cam, I couldn't believe it, theres no way, but yep it was and should have been a performance cam. I've been very calm about all this until now, this is total BS. I called Al and left a message with no return call, then I emailed him. After a couple days he contacts me, but not believing me or willing to help. Well the people that know me, know that this isn't something I would lie about, all along I've just wanted what I payed $2200 for. At first he didn't beleive me, then he wouldn't waranty anything with someone else working on the motor (which this had nothing to do about a waranty) then he said he had plenty of the performance cams on the shelf at his shop and would have just shipped me one but will not know that I've brought this up on the forums. Everyone can believe what they want, but I wouldn't recommend buying anything from this guy. I'll be posting more about this situation on the DMT http://www.datsunminitruckin.com/ole-blue-build_topic47_page54.html

[banzai510(hainz)]

Rubberbandmand

 

I bought some Delta regrinds from Tacoma Washington and I found out the same thing.

 

Key is if the head has bigger lash pads(not the stock counter sunk bottom then the cam is a regrind)

 

My Delta cam all were not in spec. I measure them the lift was stock. But assume the the duration was longer as they had to cut the back of the lobe otherwise I wouldnt need the 160 lash pads so I assume the duration is longer.

 

I will only try to buy new cams or one that I can fisically inpect with a micrometer.

 

 

Looking at your thread it could look like a regrind stock core.

 

is there some hand incribed marking on the back of the cam? I have a feeling it is a bad cm from another supplier

BUT IM ONLY GUESSING.

 

 

so ck the lash pads. if flat on bottom then its a regrind.Measure the lash pads. if about 140 or really starting at .150 then Im POSITIVE its a regrind.

If counter suck and measures .120 then its a stock cam.

[Rubberman]

Banz, my machine shop guy told me he checked it, measured, and its not a regrind either, thats the first thing he did after looking at it. I'm no motor guy but he did tell me what the measurements were but I didn't write them down. I didn't even know there were regrinds until he told me. He is going to write all this up for me to have to go against Al.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Measure the lash pads.

This will be the key before you can say LIAR.

 

 

stock lash pads are .118 or .120 I think

 

believe me my regrinds I bought 3 and all were not per listed spec as they advertised.

I seen 1 cam grinder list ones that were actually smaller that the stock cams. WHY???? got me.

 

 

even NEW CAMS they list all there measurements at Zero lash. If it says its a 480"lift youll still subtract out the valve lash.

[Rubberman]

Like I said, I'm not a motor guy, my guy talked to me about all this, but to me its in one ear and out the other, not motor savy. He said Al's lieing about a performance cam being in there, so yes I'm calling Al a LIAR,

[banzai510(hainz)]

Well Im just saying more for myself. Cam does look cut to me on the back side. As my cam looked the same

 

Mic the lash pads. then we will know.

 

 

Not related:

machine shops are not all the same. I like the ones I go to. But sseen other where they just machine the valve pockets out not know they all have to be the same otherwise youll need different size lash pads? cut the valve ends also. I seen a motor where every lash pads was a different size once. BAD!

[defdes]

I bought a fully built V912 head from him for less than the cost of a blank one from NISMO. You get what you pay for in my case, nothing but troubles. Valve lash was not set up properly and I ate a lash cap.

[ezcruiser]

I bought a fully built V912 head from him for less than the cost of a blank one from NISMO. You get what you pay for in my case, nothing but troubles. Valve lash was not set up properly and I ate a lash cap.

 

 

Did you tell him about your failure? If so, what happened?

[Guest kamakazi620]

I've been sourcing parts for the most part myself and here is what I've spent so far on a l20b rebuild:

 

$806 on machining which included: magnafluxing everything in the block, checking crank for tolerences, balancing crank and flywheel, polishing crank, line bore, decked, sourcing flywheel (done by machine shop) including resurface, bored .030 over, sourcing pistons and bearings and pressing pistons onto rods. This also including hot tanking the block/oil pan/ front cover.

 

$100 for full timing kit

 

$55 full gasket set

 

.....I still need to buy a clutch kit (I need suggestions on this one

Discount import parts has made in Japan clutch kits for l20 for 99$