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Help!!!! White wire is getting super hot...


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I have a 72 510 with a fresh ka24de motor swap. One of my turn signals stop working so I decided to check my wiring. I was checking to fuse box and noticed that the white wire that comes out the fuse box into the harness gets very hot. I unplugged it and its hot from the wiring harness side. Do I need a bigger wire? Is there something wired wrong causing the wire to get hot?? Im scared this can cause a fire. Thanks.

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That is likely the main power wire in from the battery. Don't worry it has a fusible link in line to protect it. Do you have anything wired into the 510 electrical system like an amp, stereo, CB., alarm, fog lights etc??? other than what came on the car????

 

Signals: If one side works then the signal circuit is likely fine and one of the bulbs has blown out.

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How do all your connections and fuse block look? If theyre corroded/loose/dirty soak them in vinegar or lemon juice and VERY LIGHTLY bend the tabs a little tighter on the fuse block... Then check your wiring, make sure all your connections/plugs are tight, a loose connection can cause resistance/heat.

 

If it does get burning hot, keep some thick leather gloves and yank your Positive battery cable ASAP, before you try to put a fire out.

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Well it shouldn't hurt but if very hot that is worrisome. Is it hot with all the lights off and just the engine idling?

 

Was thinking that if you have a KA swap you must have an electric fuel pump added.

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EFI swaps should have the Fuel pump, injectors and ECU all wired outside the stock fuse box. Using relays and fuses. Because the stock fuse box wasn't designed for constant high loads. It might be rated for 20A, but doesn't do too well in practice.

 

Newer Datsuns have the fuse boxes wired directly to the harness (no spade or rectangular connectors for the fuse box). That eliminates the troubleshoot connection problems.

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i do have one cable wired from the starter/main batt cable to the fusebox for my relays

The IGN signal to activate the relays come through the fusebox. But the main power for the relays should not come from the fusebox.

 

You can start tracing the load on the white wire. Use an ohmmeter to measure the load.

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How do all your connections and fuse block look? If theyre corroded/loose/dirty soak them in vinegar or lemon juice and VERY LIGHTLY bend the tabs a little tighter on the fuse block... Then check your wiring, make sure all your connections/plugs are tight, a loose connection can cause resistance/heat.

 

If it does get burning hot, keep some thick leather gloves and yank your Positive battery cable ASAP, before you try to put a fire out.

I was thinking the same. Maybe your running lights are have corroded grounds. They should ground through the light socket I think. My Z had this problem and the fuse block got so hot it melted the terminals.

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the white wire shouldnt be hot as your new harness is using another circut via batter slash the relays.

 

white wire will be lights wipers and ect as the white wire feeds the fuse box. and now yours really running less unless you got H4 100watt lamp running all the time but that should be on a relay to batt also.

 

I think what GGZilla is saying is correct unless they is a high resisiant short on the white wire line some where.

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I was working on the car today and noticed that the white stays warm but when I turn the head lights on it gets very hot.. Also the turn signals stop working when the lights are on but when I shut them off they work again. I also noticed that a little connecter piece came of one of the low beams.

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Use your ohmmeter. How much ohms are pulled through the fuse when the headlights are on? My white wire gets very warm/slightly hot also.

 

Turn signals and headlights have separate fuses and separate circuits. But the white wire (at least on a 620 or B110) is the FEED for both fuses:

 

19667.jpg

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I found the problems. I have dual fans hooked up sstraight to the black and white wire. So the fans were sucking to much power. So when I turn the headlights on both the lights and fans suck alot of power and cause my turn signals not to work. I need another way to hook the fans up

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I found the problems. I have dual fans hooked up sstraight to the black and white wire. So the fans were sucking to much power. So when I turn the headlights on both the lights and fans suck alot of power and cause my turn signals not to work. I need another way to hook the fans up

Duuuur-ectly to the battery via relay switched fused/fusible link connection.
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Yep go the wreckers and get this genuine Nissan relay, super reliable

21854.jpg

marked A,B,C,D,E on the case.

 

Put a 20A fuse right at the battery, then a wire to the relay #B. Connect relay #D to the fan. Relay E to ground, and relay C to the thermo switch. C and E can be relatively thin wires, but D & B need to be as large as the fan wire.

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Yep go the wreckers and get this genuine Nissan relay, super reliable

21854.jpg

marked A,B,C,D,E on the case.

 

Put a 20A fuse right at the battery, then a wire to the relay #B. Connect relay #D to the fan. Relay E to ground, and relay C to the thermo switch. C and E can be relatively thin wires, but D & B need to be as large as the fan wire.

 

Hmmmm....I bet I need to do that.

 

What vehicles/years? And where are those relays....engine compartment?

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