1976 Wagoon (710)

[opalbeetle]

Seems like those are called Ram Flow filters now.  I don't know if Weiand changed the names or what.  I do know that when I Google it, I come up with Weiand Ram Flow filters.

[datzenmike]

I haven't seen one in years but seem to remember it had 3 letters rather than a name. The SUs I bought from a guy who bought a 510 and didn't know what they were and didn't want them. If you look they still have the choke cables that where cut off just like they do in wrecking yards to quickly remove an engine. The flattop SUs also have some sort of air bleed thing that everyone removes to 'de-smog' them so these, as far as I can tell, have never been used since they were removed. These filters (presumably) are original after market ones from Japan.

[opalbeetle]

Now for a little interior work. 

The interior door cards from the '76 wrap right into the window channel and had the felt and rubber seal integral to the card.  I'm not sure when they changed the design, but the 1974 parts car I have did not have this.  The cards went part way up the door leaving the painted metal and had the window felt and rubber seal on a separate trim piece.  I prefer that look so I trimmed the top of my original door card (I sold the 4 door cards many years ago) so that the painted metal on the top of the door was exposed. 

I used the trim piece with the felt and the rubber seal from the 4 door.  The front doors swapped over no problem.  The rears did not.  I needed to alter the mounting tabs, trim the length of steel and also the rubber to make it fit.  It's nothing anyone would notice except me.  I wish I'd taken more pictures.

This is it installed.  The seats are from a RHD Subaru Outback.  With the way that the mounting rails are on the seats the drivers seat is mounted on the passenger side in the 710 (there was no real easy way to switch sides) so the passenger in the 710 has the power seat!  The driver's seat is all manual!

The door lock knobs are also different between the years.  The '74 had a two piece piece of plastic that wrapped down the door.  The '76 had a plastic piece attached to the vinyl that wrapped over the top of the door.  I separated the two piece to mount to the painted part of the door.

 

I don't have to do it that way, but it's the look I wanted.  So, I plugged away and made it all work.

 

More interior to come.

Edited October 9, 2020 by opalbeetle
Adding info.

[datzenmike]

My '74 and '76 were the same. I found that the July '75 and on had the wrap around card. So the '76 model year was the beginning.

[opalbeetle]

I added a tach, oil pressure gauge, water temperature gauge and a wideband.  I used the drivers side vent for a small tach, use the clock location for the oil pressure gauge and made a small two gauge mount for the top of the center console.  I didn't want to cut up the dash or remove the radio which is why I mounted gauges in existing holes.  Driving on gravel sure is dusty!

 

The gauge mount for the center console. This is before it's welded and ready to mount.  This piece is small but it took a LONG time to make!

The shift boot was remade as well, but I have since taken it out as the vinyl was too thick.  I just put a flat piece in with a cutout for the shifter that'll need to be tidied up later.  Here are the gauges mounted.  I also moved the dimmer switch up from the the plastic bracket (seen with the choke knob) to the dash (there was already a plugged hole to mount it in) so I could reuse the plastic bracket for the choke cables and knob.  The gear shift needed to have the bottom cut off, rotated and rewelded at a different angle to have it fit so it wouldn't bump into the console.

 

That's all I have for now...more tinkering and sorting will happen through the winter. I'll also take some more pictures of the things that I have missed.  It'll be nice to be able to drive it all summer next year!  I'll add more as I go along...another project is in the queue for the winter as well...my wife's dream truck.  A 1976 FJ40 diesel conversion with an added turbo, power steering, suspension and rust repair (way easier than repairing metal on a 710) are all on the list.  

 

Happy Thanksgiving to all you Canadian readers.....

 

[opalbeetle]

28 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

My '74 and '76 were the same. I found that the July '75 and on had the wrap around card. So the '76 model year was the beginning.

Thanks! Now I know.

[datzenmike]

 

Got a factory option tach.

 

The clock wasn't working so I put my wide band gauge in the hole.

 

I have after market oil temp and pressure gauges on the left of the steering column in a 720 4x4 gauge cluster screwed to the under side of the dash above my knee.

[opalbeetle]

Oh, how I’d love to get a factory tach. 

[datzenmike]

I traded a 710 dash pad for it.

[DatsSully]

I really like those gauge placements. Definitely giving me some good ideas, right now my tach is essentially zip tied to my steering column haha. Keep up the awesome work.

[datzenmike]

My '74 sedan also had this style console. So I put a 720 oil pressure gauge in the opening.

 

[opalbeetle]

Hello everyone! 

 

I've spent the winter working on a new project...1976 FJ40 that will be getting a diesel transplant, rust repair, suspension, and power steering!  So, I haven't really done a lot different with the 710 through the winter.  I did come up with a couple of bumpers.  I like the look of the car without, but there seems to be extra "eyes" these days on modified cars in these parts (like there's nothing better to enforce out there!).

 

I tried a couple of things for the front first was bare aluminum, second was paint matched aluminum, third was black.  I didn't really want the bumpers to be conspicuous.  I'm still deciding if I succeeded. Not sure I really like the rear one (though colour matching it makes it seem less visible), but I want to drive it for a whole summer, so it will stay the same for the time being.

 

I wanted to have fog lights on the car, so the front bumper served both purposes..."light bar" and bumper.

 

Anyhow, a few pictures for you.

And a couple of pics from a night out with a friend of mine with a 510.

 

Until next time!

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

I llike it!!!!!!!!!!!

Love the wheels. really makes this 710!

a spook airdam would be good also

Edited June 18, 2021 by banzai510(hainz)

[datzenmike]

Like the black. Needs black air dam for snow plowing Manitoba winters..

[opalbeetle]

4 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I llike it!!!!!!!!!!!

Love the wheels. really makes this 710!

a spook airdam would be good also

 

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Like the black. Needs black air dam for snow plowing Manitoba winters..

 

The air dam in on the list.  I plan to try an make my own out of aluminum...I have NO idea how that will go!

[datzenmike]

Plastic might be better, it will fold when you bump something. (and you will) Aluminum will transmit forces and mess up the front valance.

[opalbeetle]

So, here we are in October and after spending some time driving the car this summer the front SU decided to start leaking.  Nothing overly serious, but enough to set in motion an induction change.  I had a set of Weber DCOE 42mm sitting on the shelf and decided it was time to give them a whirl.

 

I obviously started with removal.

 

The intake I had was painted red at some point.

 

I blasted it with glass beads and it came out pretty nice!

 

Thanks for looking in!

[opalbeetle]

Once the intake was cleaned up, it was time to make a heat shield.  This isn't anything fancy, but I made a cardboard template and then transferred it to aluminum.  It mounted nicely to the manifold and then added some insulation to the underside as well.  I made a small bracket for to attach it to the underside of the carbs as well (there are 2 studs under the carb for this purpose).

 

 

 

Progress made and I will have more updates shortly!  

Edited October 5, 2021 by opalbeetle

[datzenmike]

Heat shield. $5 aluminum tray for my R-1 carburetors.

 

[opalbeetle]

As I was starting to tune the carbs, I ran into trouble starting the car.  I couldn't even get it to stumble.  My first reaction was that I turned mixture screws too far, or my idle screws were wrong so I went back to baseline and started again (I am brand new to Webers).  No luck.  The damned thing wouldn't run.  Next was to check spark...it was intermittent at best.  I checked the distributor cap to see of anything was broken, and it looked clean, so, I figured I'd try a spare coil to rule the possibility.  With the spare coil, it started right up!  I haven't a clue why or how that would have crapped out.  Perfectly terrible timing.  Anyhow, I added an MSD Blaster SS (recommended by a friend).  It has been good so far!  I made an aluminum bracket tat used the same holes as the factory coil bracket and mounted it up!

 

 

I added a catch can (bought not built) as the Webers have no provision for PCV and mounted it to the passenger side strut tower.  Here is the engine bay with everything installed.  The rear filter cover has about the thickness of a business card between the brake booster and the cover!  I'm super glad it fits!

 

 

And some random pics from out and about with my buddy.

 

That's it for now...I'm driving it again (especially with our amazing fall temperatures this year) and enjoying the extra oomph and Weber induction noises.  

 

Until the next update...thanks for looking in.

[banzai510(hainz)]

what distributor you have? points or electric. If points I would run the stock spec coil witch is about 1.6 ohms or close to it. 1.2to 1.6 should work fine with the stock ballast resisitor you have in there.

 

If that is the low ohm blaster coil most are about .7 ohms and over time will burn up the points as too much current goes thru there.  of you got a EI distributor then you dont eeven need the ballast if you dont want to run it. But if you got a EI and runs then dont worry about it

[banzai510(hainz)]

20 minutes ago, opalbeetle said:

check spark...it was intermittent at best. 

somemtimes if people take the car wire apart they wire the wrong side of the START on the ballast resisitor

[datzenmike]

According to website the primary resistance is 0.355 ohms!!!!!! Stock is about 1.5 ohms and the ballast 1.5 for 3.0 total and a theoretical across the points of 4 amps at 12 volts but a running engine produces 14v so 4.6 amps. Using this coil and the ballast is about 1.8 ohms so at 14v the points have to handle 7.77 or more amps. That's way too much for points to handle reliably. They will over heat and arc like crazy and their life severely shortened. Either get a 1.5 ohm coil or carry extra points and screwdriver in glove box.

 

 

[opalbeetle]

20 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

what distributor you have? points or electric. If points I would run the stock spec coil witch is about 1.6 ohms or close to it. 1.2to 1.6 should work fine with the stock ballast resisitor you have in there.

 

If that is the low ohm blaster coil most are about .7 ohms and over time will burn up the points as too much current goes thru there.  of you got a EI distributor then you dont eeven need the ballast if you dont want to run it. But if you got a EI and runs then dont worry about it

It's an EI distributor, so I am not worried about it at all.  I left the ballast resistor there, but there is a wire bridging the posts to bypass the resistance (read how to do that in old DQ issues).  Originally it was to keep things looking stock...clearly that doesn't matter anymore.  Ha!  It'll be a winter project to remove it and clean it all up.  Of course there is the issue of building a LandCruiser this winter, so I might not get to it!

20 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

somemtimes if people take the car wire apart they wire the wrong side of the START on the ballast resisitor

I thought it was done correctly when I put it all back together.  I kind of do things like that slowly as I am always a little nervous about messing that stuff up.

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

A owner of my 510 did a wire job a ong time agao and he was going by memory and he hooked up the hot start wwire on the up side of the ballast instead of the lower side which is shorted to the coil. thus the start 12volt never went staraight to the coil thus making cold starts hard. I figured it out later.

 

Your motor looks good and if starts fine I would just leave it along and not even worry about the ballast as if Mike say you got a .355 coil coil in there I would just leave it.(plus it looks stock)