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DatsSully

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Everything posted by DatsSully

  1. Time Left: 11 days and 19 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    For Sale - Make an offer 3n71B trans w/ torque converter and flex plate(Off of 1974 710) Automatic trans shifting linkage(Off of 1974 710) Original air cleaner for hitachi carb Hitachi carb - needs a rebuild SOLD - Valve cover - Shown in picture, 1600 style Misc smog or EGR bits Not Pictured - 710 trunk trim 710 trunk lid w/ rot on bottom edge 710 struts w/ all brake components. No spring perches I haven't taken inventory in awhile and there is probably more than pictured. Willing to ship the smaller items

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

    Plymouth, New Hampshire - US

  2. I really like those gauge placements. Definitely giving me some good ideas, right now my tach is essentially zip tied to my steering column haha. Keep up the awesome work.
  3. Code: 144134696129320592 EXP: Sept. 6
  4. It was straight forward and would have only took me about two days if I hadn't gone through everything and made it all pretty. I found it was a good time to replace my LCA bushing, Ball joints, and T/C bushings. If I was to do it over again, after seeing the condition of everything down there, I'd have replaced my idler arms and bushings. I didn't take too many pics of the install though. I compiled all the info I found researching this(mostly from mike) and made it into a google doc, doing this for all the other stuff I'm doing to my car. When I get to a point I'm happy with I'll make a
  5. Not to hijack the thread but I'll be doing a 280zx strut swap on my 710 soon. They didn't come with the inserts, would the oil inserts from my original struts swap in or will I need to purchase gas shocks? Also I recently replaced my rear shocks with basic KYB's, they seem to have improved the ride quality a small amount compared to the 45 year old shocks. Just don't try to tighten the bottom bolt too much, or better yet replace it with a new grade 8 bolt. Otherwise you might be spending some time with your good friends drill and tap.
  6. I'm wondering if anyone can tell me what kind of weather stripping will work on my rear windows of my 710. After 40+ years they've dry rotted and crumbled. Any insight on the best way to go about it would be appreciated too, the chrome trim looks like it'll need to be removed. Pics for reference - [/img
  7. Sorry it took me awhile to respond, I've been busy. I put a regular filter on as I said previously and my gauge is mechanical connected the old oil pressure sensor port. The pressure builds up normally when revved but it's very low around 1200 rpm( about 10 psi) and pretty much non-existent at 1000 and below and it starts to idle rough. Before I put this engine in I replaced the timing chain and every gasket I could(head, oil pan, timing chain cover set, water pump, oil pump, etc) so the main bearing being worn out sounds like the most likely culprit due to the history of the engine. I'll
  8. So I've been messing with everything for awhile, I installed a bunch of gauges and whatnot to get a better idea of whats going on and I've found I still have no oil pressure at idle. I've read it's supposed to be at like 10+ psi at idle but anywhere under 1200rpm I get little to no oil pressure and it starts getting rough. I've removed the dummy light sensor and put in a basic mechanical Bosch gauge and it shows everything is fine in the upper rpms. I put in a thicker oil to try and raise it which it did a little bit but not much, I was going to put my other oil pump on but I read that that's
  9. Shame, I was looking forward to seeing what you did with it.
  10. Nice, I'm going the same route with mine. I used pedals out of a 620, they use the same pedal box. I think you can used 510 and 610 pedals as well.
  11. You sir saved the day, thank you. The store didn't have the bosch but I got them to get the WIX equivalent which worked. Yeah I used the same mounts from my L18, I think I remember reading somewhere that the l20b leans a little more than the smaller engines which might have caused it. Thanks everyone for the help, I'll start a build thread soon that everyone can point out all the sketchy shit I did in haha It definitely says racecar which appealed to my inner child, I'll probably put a less sketchy one in when I have the resources/get everything else sorted out.
  12. I have the correct oil filter the engine leans a little too far so it hits the motor mount and won't twist on. The stuff was free and pretty temporary, the car has been sitting in my garage for years while I worked on it little by little when I had the time between work and college, and I just wanted it to run and move. There's a lot of things I still have to fix to make it road legal(The exhaust is hacked up and held together by pipe connectors and beer cans), the oil pan is stock with the L18 oil pickup tube, I had the whole thing apart at one point and swapped everything I could to stock co
  13. There's oil in the filter and I tried priming both hoses, it just drains into the block. I'm not sure but maybe I mounted the filter too high up and the oil can't reach it until the higher RPMs. Here's a couple pics(Don't mind the fact it looks like a disaster because I know :) , the loose wires are for my CB radio)
  14. I recently "finished" swapping an L20b and a 5 speed trans in my 710. I want to drive it around but I can't get the oil pressure light to go off. I put an external oil filter kit on it because the regular WIX filter wouldn't fit on the block and the block came with half of an external oil filter set up. So I got the external adapter and I have it mounted and hooked up correctly but the light will only go off at around 2k rpm and then back on at idle. It doesn't seem like any oil is actually running through the hoses because none will drain out when I disconnect and point downward. I can't find
  15. The plugs were out while doing all of this and I'm pretty sure the leak was just coming from the intake manifold, I'm just dumb. I'll ahve to double check the lashing with the guy who sold me the engine since it's a custom cam but for the moment I have stock lashing. Also it's the small victories that keep me going with this project haha, Time is just as rare as motivation with this project. It's turning over than just not running, got some nice loud backfire(The exhaust isn't hooked up, open header ftw). I spent a good amount of time awhile ago getting the starter to work. I
  16. Thanks for the help guys, so the leak was coming from the manifold, didn't realize there was those other spots for bolts, that leak stopped after putting some washers and bolts on there. Then I had to switch the coolant line the runs across the front of the engine so that the thermostat and the intake can hook up their outlets, the one on the engine was just for the therm outlet. Doesn't leak now but I have to figure out whats keeping it from turning over(Probably just some starter fluid down the barrels in the morning will do the trick). The only thing holding me back here was my lack of know
  17. The dowels are from my disassembled L18, I never took the cam towers off the L20b that I swapped in Those are in and the headgasket seems to be sealed now, the leak is now coming from the coolant passages that lead to the intake manifold.
  18. Got it back together and tested it again, now it's just coming out the intake ports, the intake gasket I have installed is pretty shitty so that's probably the problem.
  19. Sorry it's been awhile since I've tried to troubleshoot on here, the motor I swapped in is an L20b with an A87 head, I'm using stock 74' 710 manifolds with a weber 32/36 conversion. The leak was between the block and the head, coming out both the passenger and drivers side. Haha I worked on it when I had time between school and work, mixed with inexperience. I have no idea where the dowels are from at this point and yeah the head bolts have washer and all that. I'm going to re-torque everything with the new clean surfaces and see if that solves the problem.
  20. The two dowels that are meant to be there are there. I tightened the headbolts with a torque wrench to spec awhile ago. I have I think 8 dowels and I was pretty sure they were in the block on my l18 I could be wrong since I didn't label the bag and I did all that 2 years ago. I took a new metal yard stick and check the clearance with a feeler gauge and it checked out. Maybe the head bolts just got a little loose after awhile, maybe once I redo it it won't leak? I had done everything by the book, the head did have some build up on it but I didn't think it would cause such a problem.
  21. Okay so I've been putting this car together slowly for the past 3 years where the car fought me every step of the way with stupid little shit that kept holding me back but I finally get it to the point where I can fire it up. I fill her up with oil, then I go to fill the radiator up with water so i don't ruin anything on startup(If it starts at all). Sure enough f'ing Murphy's law'd once again, as I fill it up with water I hear this trickling noise so I look up and there's water leaking out the coolant passages from under the head out onto the side of the block(Sorry no pics or video, I immedi
  22. I know it's kind of off topic but I'm really curious about the CA transmission swap, is it a direct bolt on, did you make an adapter plate, or swap the bellhousing, etc? Also great write up by the way, I really enjoyed reading it and it was really insightful.
  23. I'm going to learn to drive manual on it so I was going for cheap since I'll probably beat it up doing so and have to replace it anyway, no sense in wasting what little money I have on 2 nice clutches.
  24. Getting the longer bolts to thread it in worked. What I didn't realize is the mounting holes on the housing are about twice as thick as the automatic's so that explained why the bolts only stuck out about a 1/4" so I have a mix of class 8.8 and original bolts on there until I can get the right ones. I also found that the driver's side bracket doesn't line up with any of the trans holes and the trans doesn't have threads on the lower holes like the auto so I just put longer bolts and nuts to secure them. Everything still spins so it should work fine, hooking all the wires and shit up now.
  25. I had a couple bolts that happened to be the same size thread and longer and got one side started, looks like that's probably going to work. I just need to pick up a couple slightly longer ones for the other side tomorrow, thanks Mike.
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