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1976 Wagoon (710)


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It's gonna be grey....


I hung the doors and rear lift gate from the ceiling.  For the most part it worked awesome!  The lift gate will have upside down paint runs (not so bad to have to fix it) when it's installed!  


My "fancy" exhaust stem for the shop...


And I bought myself a treat.  I've been looking for 15" wheels for a while (other than the unfinished snowflakes I have) and came across these.  They are definitely 15", but for the life of me I can't recall the specs off the top of my head.  I know that according to my calculations and figuring that the offsets will fit nicely.



There will be more updates coming, but I am back to work now and things go from summer mode to 100mph in about a day around here.  So, as I get things reassembles and put back together, I will update.


Until next time.....


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I really liked Nardo Grey but ended up picking a grey that’s quite a bit lighter. It’s not anything specific but it’s really close to Ford Tractor (7N, 8N) grey. The light colour is good for hiding my less than best body work.....

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Slowly getting things back together.



The rear lift gate window rubber had blue overspray all the way around it.  That'd be fine, IF I was repainting it the same colour.  I slowly scraped it off with a utility knife blade.  It left a little scraping but looks a lot cleaner.



The weatherstripping around the lift gate has deteriorated from the inside!  There is metal crimping in there that rusted out for part of it.  Have any of you found a substitute that might work? Or, have one that you aren't using? I tried one from a Subaru wagon but it's too tall and the lift gate doesn't "sit down".  


Everything takes time!  From sandblasting rusty bolts and painting them to finding the pieces I took off over the past 8 years and then remembering where everything goes! Ha!


Making progress!


Thanks for looking in....


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Still working on getting things together, but there are two projects going on in my shop.


In March my sons and I flew to California to bring home a 2000 Subaru RS2.5.  We drove the thing home NO problem.  ONce we got home and he tweaked his suspension added wheels and tires he proceeded to begin autocrossing.  On about his third weekend the tired EJ25 gave up and said tow me home please....so I towed him home so my son could start on the swap he wanted to do (though a little early).  He is swapping an EZ30 (H6) from a JDM Legacy.  He worked at making the factory ECM work with little luck so he bit the bullet and bought a "Link" stand alone ECM.  After a bunch of wiring, reading, some more reading, asking questions, frustration, resorting some wiring (he needed power to the main relay), we then figured out the timing was out 360 degrees....set it to the proper timing and this happened.....


42774535870_5b50893e1e_c.jpg87ADC6B3-B223-4215-AAC5-BE4299329654 by opalbeetle, on Flickr


There was some pretty loud cheering and a feeling of relief!  Absolutely awesome how he figured it all out (proud dad talking here)!

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

So, in working on the reassembly and my induction plan for the car, I'm wondering about the brake booster being in the way. 


I plan on bigger brakes up front and have read a few different ideas about what would work for a BMC.  I am using the combination that Mike Klotz out together.  I do not need a brake booster so I am wondering what might work for an upgrade BMC on the 710 (I think I used one from a 280zx when I built my 510).


Thanks for you thoughts!




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The brake booster reduces driver effort. Braking is just easier. I wouldn't get rid of it ever even with stock brakes. There's no feeling quite like pulling the steering column out of the floor, with both feet on the brake and your ass lifted off the seat and... you're not going to make it.

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I added a 210 brake booster on my 510 wagon, and the pedal force needed is nearly identical to my late model daily driver.  It has a nice pedal feel, and it is not mushy or too soft.  The b210/210 booster is really small, and I paid somewhere around $35 for it in the wrecking yard.


I'm in complete agreement with Mike on this one. 

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Early cars were lighter with smaller calipers and wheel cylinders and up to a point you could brake fairly well without assistance. I'm thinking of the 1200 and the 510. But as they gained weight the effort goes up to get stopped and most after '72 have a booster, all do actually.


The booster uses engine vacuum on a large diameter diaphragm to reduce the effort but supply more force on the master cylinder. A pedal pressure of 110 pounds (in a panic situation you can easily apply twice or more) and using the brake pedal leverage, a line pressure in the brake system can reach 850 PSI on my 710. With the booster added the same effort of 110 pounds will produce 1,350 PSI in the brake lines! About 60% extra.


Anything that reduces driver fatigue... is good.


If the addition of larger calipers made the pedal mushy (after all it has to travel farther to supply more fluid for the larger calipers) a larger booster will supply more fluid and firm up your pedal. If you haven't noticed much change, and are comfortable with it... leave it. Some people find that more pedal travel allows you to hold the brakes closer to lock up with better pedal feedback.




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I think I had a 280zx 15/16" BMC in my 2dr 710, on the stock booster, and 280zx struts/brakes.  The previous owner changed the reservoirs though, because the 280zx ones might not have fit.  The brakes and pedal felt great.


My 710 wagon had a 7/8" 280Z BMC with no booster, because of the KA24DE headers, and the brakes never felt "right".  I think the 710 being 1400lbs heavier than a 510 makes a booster a good idea.

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My opinion? Unboosted 280ZX BMC in the 510 is just too stiff. I think you'll find the same in the 710.     If it has a booster reuse it if you can. Boosted brakes are much easier on the leg especially at our advanced age. ? And I find them easier to modulate without breaking the seatback. 

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59 minutes ago, INDY510 said:

I think I had a 280zx 15/16" BMC in my 2dr 710, on the stock booster, and 280zx struts/brakes.  The previous owner changed the reservoirs though, because the 280zx ones might not have fit.  The brakes and pedal felt great.


My 710 wagon had a 7/8" 280Z BMC with no booster, because of the KA24DE headers, and the brakes never felt "right".  I think the 710 being 1400lbs heavier than a 510 makes a booster a good idea.


I have the 15/16" master and '84 Maxima struts and brakes, stock booster and it's perfect.


 (I think a 1 crept in there) The 710 wagon is 2,850 with me in it on the local landfill scales. (1,300 kg) So 2,650 or round to 2,700 lbs. Which is about 400 pounds more than the 510.

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  • 5 months later...

I want to relocate the dipstick to the other side of the Z22 block (that's what I will be putting into the car...time changes many plans).  Here is a picture of the casting that will allow for a hole to be drilled.  It appears as though the dipstick will hit the casting below it.  Do you think that there will be a problem if I removed some of that to make room for the dipstick?




I seem to have forgotten (and cannot figure it out) how to link images from datsun510.com so the link will have to do.  Sorry.

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Dipstick above the starter just like all L series? Or opposite where the Z22 would be? Picture just shows the oil pick up tube to block hole. Dip stick should be way over to the right of this.

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The Z22 block I have had the dipstick to the front of the block on what will be the intake/exhaust side when I install  the U67 head.  There are two spots on the Z22 block that are drilled on the bloc, the one to the rear of the block was plugged and not used.  If you look to the left of the oil pickup inside the cavity (just to the right of the girdle that holds the bearing - do you call it a girdle?) there is a casting spot with a round, flat bottom for a dipstick tube on the non-intake/exhaust side of the block (after the U67 is installed). I can take a couple more pictures if I'm unclear (which perhaps I am).  


That spot would work with the 710 pan as that is the "deep" part of the pan when it is installed (I think that's the case).  


I'll take more pictures if that would be helpful.  


Thanks for your help, Mike.

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I can't see why that spot would be a problem. Obviously made for it by the factory. Are you thinking that the dipstick will hit the "girdle"? Doesn't look like it in the pic, but perspective is everything.

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Thanks for the confirmation. That’s what I was thinking. That perspective is deceiving as the dipstick will run right into that casting. Weird. 


For interest sake, I compared an L20B and the casting is different at the end of those girdles. There is no triangular piece off each side. 


Time to take the plunge and drill it out. 

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