Boaty Posted October 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 Weird - mine's a 71, maybe some had the special stamp, maybe some didn't. So, ghetto'd up the engine bay today. Total cost $18 + change. I was going to be super thorough about it but lost interest in spending a bunch of time making things purdy. Weather is going to turn to shit really quick, I can smell it in the air. It's already super-dewey in the morning now. So I figured another time, another project. She looks a lot better than she used to (silver & green flaking paint). Maybe not as shiny as she was a few years ago (Hammered Silver, lol). But, everything is in there and painted now, just a matter of cleaning up a couple things and installing the KA! Then it's on to wiring and such.... :( I need to look at some pictures of how other's have installed their KA/SR harnesses, so I can see where I need to cut a hole in the firewall to install it. Anybody have some good oics of their modded firewalls & ECU installs? Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted October 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 The redheaded bitch is IN! Quote Link to comment
Siqx20 Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 Is that Neil? 0.o Quote Link to comment
cyrusthevirus Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 funny as i am running wire now for my sr there are plenty of tricks i was guided to the trans tunnel just above the the raised seam (there is factory goo there)under the heater loc Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted October 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 @ Brandon - Yep that's Neil. He's a left hander, I'm not. So he was best suited for that little stubborn SOB bolt than I am. @DatDat - No clue what you were sayin' there. Factory goo... so lost haha. UPDATE! Installed transmission & driveshaft, hacked up my core support to fit my radiator (gonna have to come up with some snazzy "mounts" for it to be final though)! Interesting result with transmission in... sway bar contacts the oil pan with just the slightest amount of lift of the front end. Thinking I'm going to have to modify my sway bar mount so I can push the sway bar back farther towards the crossmember to gain some clearance. I'm worried about it [eventually] adding a nice hole to my oil pan. No mi gusta. Unfortunately, there is no way in HELL I can use my shroud on my radiator. It's simply too big to fit in front of the KA... but it has enough clearance to mount my fans as pullers through the core (really hate doing that!) But until I can get everything ripped back out, new engine mounts put in (240sx mounts instead of L-series mounts) this is the way it's going to have to be for now. I'll just baby it until 'then' Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Anybody happen to have a 510 sedan tank already modded for use with an in-tank pump? Doesn't have to have a pump or anything, mainly just concerned with getting a tank, I can pull the sending unit from whatever along with a pump. Having some issues trying to find somebody that's willing to weld on a gas tank. Called the radiator shop and they said they didn't want to work with it. :( Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 Anybody happen to have a 510 sedan tank already modded for use with an in-tank pump? Doesn't have to have a pump or anything, mainly just concerned with getting a tank, I can pull the sending unit from whatever along with a pump. Having some issues trying to find somebody that's willing to weld on a gas tank. Called the radiator shop and they said they didn't want to work with it. :( Luke will do it (jesusno2). You should get the radiator shop to hot tank it first so when it comes time to cut and weld it wont have any fumes. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 @ Brandon - Yep that's Neil. He's a left hander, I'm not. So he was best suited for that little stubborn SOB bolt than I am. @DatDat - No clue what you were sayin' there. Factory goo... so lost haha. UPDATE! Installed transmission & driveshaft, hacked up my core support to fit my radiator (gonna have to come up with some snazzy "mounts" for it to be final though)! Interesting result with transmission in... sway bar contacts the oil pan with just the slightest amount of lift of the front end. Thinking I'm going to have to modify my sway bar mount so I can push the sway bar back farther towards the crossmember to gain some clearance. I'm worried about it [eventually] adding a nice hole to my oil pan. No mi gusta. Unfortunately, there is no way in HELL I can use my shroud on my radiator. It's simply too big to fit in front of the KA... but it has enough clearance to mount my fans as pullers through the core (really hate doing that!) But until I can get everything ripped back out, new engine mounts put in (240sx mounts instead of L-series mounts) this is the way it's going to have to be for now. I'll just baby it until 'then' One thing I do not like about CXRacing is they sell you a radiator with a fan shroud and two fans. By the picture you have showed it looks like the shroud is around 1" and then mounted to the shroud are the fans. When you look at CXRacings images of a KA with their radiator it shows it without the shroud and just the fans mounted to the radiator. I hope they did not just make a shroud without test fitting it to a KA 510. I think CXRacing made an exact duplicate of TSR's Ron Davis radiator. Does the shroud not fit due to the crank pulley? Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted October 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 With the shroud on, it actually hits the water pump pulley. I am confident that if I was using 240sx mounts, it would all fit. Using L-series mounts for the time being. Next time engine comes out, it's getting 240sx mounts for sure. My engine is about 2" from the firewall. If you look at their pictures, that KA is damned near UNDER the firewall lip. And it's very close to the firewall period... with that added inch, everything would fit nicely as I have it mounted. Quote Link to comment
dennis Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 With the shroud on, it actually hits the water pump pulley. I am confident that if I was using 240sx mounts, it would all fit. Using L-series mounts for the time being. Next time engine comes out, it's getting 240sx mounts for sure. My engine is about 2" from the firewall. If you look at their pictures, that KA is damned near UNDER the firewall lip. And it's very close to the firewall period... with that added inch, everything would fit nicely as I have it mounted. Are you using 510 mounts? The good solution is using 620 mounts. They sit almost an inch taller than the 510 mounts, not sure if 1" will give you the room to move the water pump pulley out of the way. Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted November 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 The room I need isn't height, the room I need is distance between pulley and radiator. I need the engine to move towards the fire wall at least an inch. If I can get it back an inch, I'm in business. I don't see this as possible using L-series mounts.... oh let me tell you, I'm frustrated as all hell right now trying to fit the fans and figure out a way I can gain clearance and not have the radiator hose run right through the intake. It's getting awfully tight in there. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted November 5, 2011 Report Share Posted November 5, 2011 The room I need isn't height, the room I need is distance between pulley and radiator. I need the engine to move towards the fire wall at least an inch. If I can get it back an inch, I'm in business. I don't see this as possible using L-series mounts.... oh let me tell you, I'm frustrated as all hell right now trying to fit the fans and figure out a way I can gain clearance and not have the radiator hose run right through the intake. It's getting awfully tight in there. all you need is an inch? how wide is the radiator setup? cut the radiator support and sink that bitch in that extra inch shit sink it in as far as you can the more room the better its not hard to get the radiator support back to its original strength and you have a welder so it should be relativly easy Quote Link to comment
Creepy Cruiser Posted November 5, 2011 Report Share Posted November 5, 2011 When I do them, I cut the bracing out of the mounts and angle them forward, (to move the motor back), and then rewelded the braces back in so they still look totally stock. This also allows you to get the correct alinement on the mounts, so your isolators are squared up. Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted November 5, 2011 Report Share Posted November 5, 2011 . Don't you have a S14 KA24 Creepy??? ..... . .. or am I missing something on my S13 mounts??: .... :huh: Quote Link to comment
Creepy Cruiser Posted November 5, 2011 Report Share Posted November 5, 2011 Yes, I have a couple S14 KAs. Interesting that yours don't have the internal bracing. I guess I never really looked at the S13 mounts, because I've always done S14's Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted November 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 DO WANT. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted November 7, 2011 Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 indy is a polishing fool lol Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted November 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 Me, too haha. I want my 1.5HP Baldor =( Entire car will look like a mirror... Kidding. But on a serious note... hoping to get some motivation to go out and freeze my ass off working on the 510 again. Damn this weather. Damn winter. Damn lack of garage! Gas tank needs to get yanked, fuel lines need to get bent up.. bah. Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted December 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2011 Ugh. Fuck off Oregon wet nasty winter. Either snow, or be sunny and warm. I hate this wet rainy shit! So, fuel tanks ripped out, firewall is ready to be punched out for the KA harness. Lovely time of year, I now have small swimming pools in my floorboards. (Thanks again, fuck off weather.) Decided all the wiring I previously had done up in the dash is going bye-bye. Since I'm going to have to get electric gauges (iEquus) then I had no need to keep the mechanical ones I have now. Gonna use them for the next project, I suppose. Trying to figure out how I want to run everything. There is nothing I hate worse than shit wiring jobs done by hack mechanics with their "well it works so fuck-it" attitude towards what they do. And the first portion of my wiring looked like shit (see above) but you can tell how things changed as I started removing things that were more recent. I'm way too picky about wiring. (As in, dirty terminal? Replaced!) I am kind of curious which would be my best method of running my remote battery. I haven't quite picked a mount just yet, but it will be mounted in the passenger side of my trunk. There are a couple mounts out there, some secure from the bottom (I have an Optima, so these are Optima-specific) and some have full metal plates that go over the top (Safe, but no need for bling-bling really). Thinking about running military terminals with 1ga battery +12V, and 1/0 ground. I want to get some nice boots and such for it, too - since I use my trunk quite often. Would look cleaner and prevent "accidents". Been doing some readin' how others have done their trunk mount's. I see a few ups and downs to each of their methods. What you guys think? I can run a battery cable up to the firewall with a power bushing, and draw main power from there into the fuse box and accessory power. Or, I can run the same cable on a Ford solenoid located in the trunk, and run a second (smaller wire) up front to power the car off of. Doing the latter prevents a huge ass cable from being powered at all times and is only active while starting the car. So if something bad happens, I don't have this ginormous un-fused battery cable ready to burn down the car. Running the smaller wire (which would also feed from the alternator) means I can run it with a 100A mega-fuse in case something happens. Would also require me to run another small wire back to feed the solenoid from the ignition switch (no biggie, just more wiring.) This is probably the route I will take, do you guys see any cons to this? Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted December 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 Oh. A long overdue update. The sun actually broke out for awhile, the frost thawed (where the sun hits) and I had a wild hair to actually freeze my tookus off this afternoon in an effort to get something done. The way I have my radiator mounted, is against everything I know but - it works and it can be fixed at a later date when the engine gets shoved back where it should be. For now it will have to do. But having it mounted the way I do, I am using old sway bar endlink bushings holed out to fit over the mounting studs of the radiator, which is shoved through the core support via 1/2" holes. This gives it a rubber mount, and it's actually really sturdy. I was suprised my idea worked. But, unfortunately those bushings are right in the way of the headlight buckets. So, a little bit of work with some tin snips and a hack saw, the buckets are modified, and the buckets are installed. Actually looks like a car now, and tomorrow I can finish mounting the grille, and turn signal assemblies. Slowly but surely the little stuff is getting done. QUESTION - does anybody know off-hand the size and pitch of the screws that hold the headlight buckets in? I was under the impression they were the same as 10mm bolts, but I was wrong when I went to find out. Looking through a bin at the parts store, I couldn't find anything that matched. Close, but no cigar. Are they a special thread pitch or something?? Some of you asked me where the KA is mounted and to take some measurements. I could give you a dozen measurements, but this seemed like it would suffice to show the positioning of the KA and trans. The trans is bolted in all the way, which is a given. But this is where the end of the transmission ends up in it's current position. Looking at others' photo's, the engine is about an inch farther forward than it 'should' be. PS Ignore the holyshit-hackjob I did to the trans tunnel, I didn't have anything to cut with except tin snips, and was in a rush to get the transmission installed. I intend on cleaning that up when the time comes. And by the way, FATMAT EFFING SUCKS TO REMOVE. Shit sticks almost too good. As much as it knocked the sound down, I'm not sure it was worth it. It took 20 minutes to rip off a 6"x6" piece, and it still left chunks of rubber. Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted January 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 Hurrr. Been awhile, bad weather no garage, no work. Shit happens. Updates though. McKinney Motorsports mounts installed. Gas tank is done, just have to go pick it up, run fuel lines and dick with the battery and hook the wiring up. And re-figure out what I'm doing for an intake since my present intake now sits perfectly where the upper radiator inlet is after installing the mounts. Oh well, I'll get her done one way or another. I don't mind replacing the plastic spectre crap anyhow. Le Mounts. This used to be below the radiator inlet, but whatever. Glad I didn't do anything permanent yet. Fuel tank modded up. Took advantage of my one day of good weather and actually having parts to do work with. Now after the next storm rolls through, should have re-kindled the mud pot I use as a driveway. I've come to just accept that the mud is just extra cushioning, not so much a mess. O.o Fuck-all. 'til next time. Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 YOu got less then 6 months get it done, looks good. Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted January 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 Well most of the hard part that I wasn't able to do MYSELF, is done now. So it's just a matter of reassembling everything now, and that means things will be going by quicker. Now if I could just start getting some damn WORK, that'd help out greatly too. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 bad ass man glad to hear it will be moving forward soon i understand the looking for work bit it sucks this time of year Quote Link to comment
Jennifer Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 Well most of the hard part that I wasn't able to do MYSELF, is done now. So it's just a matter of reassembling everything now, and that means things will be going by quicker. Now if I could just start getting some damn WORK, that'd help out greatly too. i read the first part of your comment as ... the most hard part is that i wasn't able to do myself..... i was.. like.. i dont think anyone can. hahha btw nice going :D i like Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.