BEEBANI Posted April 4, 2007 Report Share Posted April 4, 2007 I'm sure you guys read my other post about the dist. giving me grief on my '76? Well, I'm about to pull my hair out with this thing! I found a crack in the dist. cap, so I replaced it, that didn't seem to change anything. I drained the fuel tank and blew out the hard lines and replaced the filters. Put new gas in, adjusted the timing both directions, put the original coil back on after putting a new NAPA one on it. It backfires when I throttle up or mash the gas, wont run without the choke being on, and idles like shit. Any ideas? BTW, 32/36 weber carb, '76 cali elec. dist. stock. Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted April 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2007 Checked the timing, it was way off; didn't even come anywhere near the timing tab on the the front of the motor. Shitty thing is, that's where it runs best! Pulled all 4 plugs, they all were black with soot! Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted April 4, 2007 Report Share Posted April 4, 2007 Jason ive been following your posts on both forums & chiming in when i think i can help. In my opinion if it were mine id look into rebuilding your existing carb or getting a brand new one from Weber. And that will eliminate any poss. carb issues. Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted April 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2007 Brandon (fineline) and I were talking about it tonight, and he suggested that maybe one of my jets was clogged? I'll check that out tomorrow. I can't afford a $2-300 carb. I rebuilt this one when I got it, but I don't know how well it worked when I got it. Quote Link to comment
mypos620 Posted April 6, 2007 Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 yours sounds alot like what mine is doing its starts idles like shit i put it to the floor it sounds like its reving at about 2000 rpm or so. if let off the gas sometimes it sputters and dies sometimes it just keeps idling shitty then i put it i drive and it dies. i have no clue what the hell is going on. so your not alone. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 6, 2007 Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 My brother in laws F250 if doing the same thing. I'm goin to take a look at it on Sat. I let you know if I figure it out...maybe it will help you guys ;) Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 Bring #1 cylinder up to TDC.Then see where the mark is on the balancer.Then see where the rotor is pointing.It SHOULD be pointing the general direction of the #1 wire. If the piston IS at TDC and the pointer AND rotor is close to #1,THEN look at the carb. BTW-where the hell did the title"Hall monitor" come from? Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted April 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 I did this, and the mark on the crank pulley was nowhere near the 0 mark. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 Have you got the compression yet? Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted April 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 no, monday. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 8, 2007 Report Share Posted April 8, 2007 So I fixed my bro-in-laws truck... He had the same exact problem, same exact symptoms. New dist. and new petronix, everything set perfect. We bypassed the (brand new) ballast resitor and now it runs great. The coil says use with external resistor, he's gonna pick up a different coil ;) You might give it a shot... Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted April 8, 2007 Report Share Posted April 8, 2007 Remember that the Pertronix NEEDS the extra resistance. It'll work without it but the life will be quite short (weeks or days). Standard low-resistance coils simply draw too much current through the trigger circut and poof goes the unit. Pertronix makes a coil with internal resistance that works well in that app, but a standard EI type coil will cook a pertronix. If the NEW resistor wasn't bad, that indicates wrong plug type or way too wide a gap. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 8, 2007 Report Share Posted April 8, 2007 I'll let him know to check into both of those options. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 9, 2007 Report Share Posted April 9, 2007 I've been looking around and I haven't seen anything saying the petronix 'needs' a ballast resistor. The instructions that came with the kit showed 3 different wiring configurations, only one had a ballast resistor. Even this website says 'may' need a ballast resistor...and it's datsun specific... http://www.datsunparts.com/Electrical I also have a friend whos been running his petronix for about 3 years with no ballast resistor, with absolutely zero problems... So how do you tell if you need a ballast resistor or not??? Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted April 9, 2007 Report Share Posted April 9, 2007 It's based off the resistance of the coil. Too low resistance = too much current through the unit. Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted April 9, 2007 Report Share Posted April 9, 2007 The Pertronix documentation clearly states that it requires 3ohms primary resisitance. They even sell a coil specifically for use with the pertronix that has the 3ohm resistance built in. If you don't use it, it will burn up. It may take a while, but it will. I've been running them since '95 and burned up a couple before I followed their directions. I have one I have used for 7 years with their coil, no issues. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 9, 2007 Report Share Posted April 9, 2007 So buy their coil...problem solved (ballast resistor-wise)? Cool. Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted April 9, 2007 Report Share Posted April 9, 2007 That's what I did. I actually have a brandy new one - still in the box, if you need one Steve. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 10, 2007 Report Share Posted April 10, 2007 Thanks. My bro in law also extends his thanks. His truck was down for almost a year :D He'll be picking one up later this week... Quote Link to comment
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