Brake bleeding woes! URGENT!

[metalmonkey47]

I need this figured out ASAP, so I'm starting a new thread. The cars in pieces behind me, it's almost 8, and I work in the morning

 

I pulled my new master cylinder off to bench bleed it again, and when I used my dowel to compress it, the reservoir for the front bled fine, but the res for the rear is bubbling up inside the resevoir instead of bleeding out the bottom line. It literally is not pushing any fluid out of the bottom where as the res for the front brakes is bleeding just fine.

 

Bad master cylinder? Or am I doing something wrong?

[jputz]

put it back on the car and try bleeding it with the pedal just dont hook it up to the brake lines. just keep pumping till fluid comes out. How many times did you pump it?

[INDY510]

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By bench bleeding you mean this?: ....... . .2 short barke lines looped back into the resivor... . . my new master "bubbled" 50 times before any fluid came out

 

 

[metalmonkey47]

put it back on the car and try bleeding it with the pedal just dont hook it up to the brake lines. just keep pumping till fluid comes out. How many times did you pump it?

 

More then I can count.

 

I just got off the phone with '70dime (pierce) and he said it's normal, and saw the same problem, but says that I should just gravity bleed it, and crack the bleed screw on the side to get the air from in front of the piston

[metalmonkey47]

Indy, it was the exact same, but i did it in a vice with some clear hose because I don't have anything else as pretty as that to bleed with

 

I've pumped it PLENTY, but all the air is coming out the top of the res, not the bottom

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lf3ac60ccI

 

[INDY510]

.

is the clear hose fully sumbmerged in brake fluid??? ..... .. .. you can't allow any air to get sucked back in every time

[fourfiveten]

Another helpfull thing for bleeding, start with rear passenger side(furthest away from res.) followed by rear drivers, pass. front, and lastly drivers front.

I recently did my 510 brakes and couldn't get anything through the pass. front tried the disconnect from the res. fluid came out there. used an air compressor to blow out the brake line(disconnected at the res but still attached to the hub, bleeder valve open) and after a bit I got out a fair bit of murkey brown gunk out of the line (or posssibly the hub). After that the bake fluid pumped freely

hope this helps, GL

 

when you were saying front and rear I didn't realize you had it off the car already

[metalmonkey47]

.

is the clear hose fully sumbmerged in brake fluid??? ..... .. .. you can't allow any air to get sucked back in every time

 

Yup, it is now. I got the master pretty well bled now, So I'm bleeding from the screw on the master, and my setup looks like this :

 

 

 

[INDY510]

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So it's going to work???? .............. :huh:

[metalmonkey47]

.

So it's going to work???? .............. :huh:

 

No :(

 

 

I still hear air in it, but I'm still bleeding and praying.

 

 

I can bleed the shit out of up, and close the bleed screws, and the brakes are stiffer then ever. After a few pumps it's loose again. FML

[bananahamuck]

Try to go like half way in for like 5 quick strokes then push all way in over and over ( no stopsies ) . The problem you are encountering is the same one i ran into just the other day after rebuilding a back up master cyl and blowing air through lines to clean out any old crap that might have been in them

And do both at once not one at a time

Just keep at it, it will give in

[metalmonkey47]

Problem solved!! You'll never guess what it was

[banzai510(hainz)]

What MOFO?tell us so we dont do the same thing. Esp if you pulled it back out of the car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

 

personally I have never self bleed them. Install bleed at brakes and it works

[metalmonkey47]

What MOFO?tell us so we dont do the same thing. Esp if you pulled it back out of the car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

 

personally I have never self bleed them. Install bleed at brakes and it works

 

 

It was just a bad reman. I replaced brake lines, bled over and over, and decided on a whim to replace it under the warranty. I put it on, bled it, and all is well.

[izzo]

Brakes are for people who keep their tires on their car my friend. When you lose tires, you slow down anyways. :blink: :rofl:

[metalmonkey47]

Brakes are for people who keep their tires on their car my friend. When you lose tires, you slow down anyways. :blink: :rofl:

 

:rofl:

 

I'm never gonna live that down.

 

At least.... uhhhh..... nevermind. LOL

[banzai510(hainz)]

Well the clue to me is the BUBBLES.NO not Micheal Jacksons Chimp.

 

Me and Datto 510 did my 521 brakes( i had a bad rear cylinder) so I was in process of blleding the brake. 1 was filling ,1 pushing and 1 watching at the drum. 5 min job right? Wrong

what happend is when you bleed out a old master there soemtimes is a ridge inside where the seal wears. So when you bleed you end up pushing the master to its full length. The seal then hits the ridge and cuts the seal.

Datto510(Eric) notice bubbles comming up also.,very tiny but bubbles.

I had a new spare we swaped it out and bleed or 4 sides in like 5 mins.IT was only 5 years old on that Taiwan master.

 

also another thing is we had one on Erics 521 where it wouldnt bleed a NEW clutch master. Filled it up and would not push fluid. Finally i stuck my finger over the hole inside the resivior and Eric pumped(that dont sound right does it) then somehow then it shot fluid out from the top(sounds worse now). then bleed slave and worked OK after that

[yello620]

I need this figured out ASAP, so I'm starting a new thread. The cars in pieces behind me, it's almost 8, and I work in the morning

 

I pulled my new master cylinder off to bench bleed it again

 

 

 

It was just a bad reman. I replaced brake lines, bled over and over, and decided on a whim to replace it under the warranty. I put it on, bled it, and all is well.

 

 

First post told us that you were using a NEW master cylinder, and now you tell us that it is a reman??

 

 

I have been doing brakes/suspension/alignments professionally for the last 20 years, and there is a big difference between a reman and a new master cylinder. Although they look the same.

 

I have never seen a reman that lasted longer than one year, and my experience with remans is a 50+% DOA.

[izzo]

:rofl:

 

I'm never gonna live that down.

 

At least.... uhhhh..... nevermind. LOL

 

 

At least what? You dont go thru cars like tampons? I can take a joke/razzin man :rofl:

[bilzbobaggins]

:) Nice to have brakes! Congrats

 

JEff

[hawaii_620]

How are those rebuild kits for M/C? worth the time to try it? or something to totally skip over and just go with a new (not reman) M/C?

[banzai510(hainz)]

like orginally mention your wasting your time get a new one and maybe a spare if made in Taiwan or Italy.

If you can fins a Japan New then youll only need one.

 

I went thru 2 already on 10years/ Taiwan But that what most are for the 521s

[metalmonkey47]

Okay, so the problem is NOT fixed. It came back the other day, and I just didn't have the time to post it.

 

It is intermittent though, so I'm curious if it's the calipers. I think I'm gonna go ahead and order new calipers Friday

[metalmonkey47]

BUMP. I can drive the car normally, and the brakes will be soft as hell, but if I go tearing down the road shifting at 5K, the brakes are hard as hell and tear your face off. WTF

[banzai510(hainz)]

IM winging this here but brake booster?????

A buddy had a Volvo P1800 and he was loosing brake fluid. We cked and dint know where it went to.

However he overheater the motor once also. So I thought head gasket as it was smoking out the back.

 

Come to find out volvo are cast iron everything. head was fine. dint over heat at all. but the brake fluid was getting sucked up byt he brake booster vauum line. The was a hole in the diaphrame and getting sucked in thru the intake. Thats was it. Thats why the low fluid.

 

if your not loosing fluid I dont know what more to tell you. I never had a brake boosted car