metalmonkey47 Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Oics below.. I'm trying to remove my worn to death idler arm from my 210. I've got the bracket off from under the hood, got the castle nut off the shaft, and the thing won't budge off the steering!! Any tips? I already tried bolting it back onto the frame/unibody and knocked on the stud a little, trying to drive the arm off the shaft, but the thing literally won't budge!! It's gonna be raining soon and needs to be done ASAP! Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 fuckin wail on it with a BFG on the side and rattle it loose sprayin some PB blasting in there wouldnt hurt either Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 (edited) fuckin wail on it with a BFG on the side and rattle it loose sprayin some PB blasting in there wouldnt hurt either I soaked it in PB blaster before removing the nut. or damage where it bolts, but I guess I don't have a choice to try. I don't wanna mushroom the end of the stud foar the idler arm, That would kill my night. Edited April 21, 2011 by metalmonkey47 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Bolt it back to the frame. Put the nut back on a little to protect the threads (in case you miss). Then get your BFH and smash it real fucking hard right here. Then take it off. :) Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 BRB Gonna go swing the hammer. Maybe I'll record it just in case I hurt myself Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 It's a taper fit and made that way so they are NOT easy to remove. Makes them safer if the nut comes loose. Have someone with a pry bay bear downward on the steering cross bar... then hit it hard where directed. The shock will make the hole vibrate between a circle and an oval in shape, (on a microscopic level) and a downward force will help it jump out. Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 2eDeYe' date='21 April 2011 - 04:17 PM' timestamp='1303427861' post='463644']Bolt it back to the frame. Put the nut back on a little to protect the threads (in case you miss). Then get your BFH and smash it real fucking hard right here. Then take it off. :) exactly :D Quote Link to comment
Hoosier77 Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 I recently removed some of these GO RENT A BALL JOINT FORK, bolt it back up stick the fork in there and whack it off! you can also get a ball joint fork that has a small shaft to put in an air hammer, that really helps!!!! One of mine I had to heat with a torch. The best i can tell you is to keep wailing on it until it breaks loose, which like i said took me 2 days! :blink: 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 The shock will make the hole vibrate between a circle and an oval in shape, (on a microscopic level) and a downward force will help it jump out. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 I recently removed some of these GO RENT A BALL JOINT FORK, bolt it back up stick the fork in there and whack it off! you can also get a ball joint fork that has a small shaft to put in an air hammer, that really helps!!!! One of mine I had to heat with a torch. The best i can tell you is to keep wailing on it until it breaks loose, which like i said took me 2 days! :blink: thats a good idea, but what about the rubber bushing in there? I imagine I don't wanna ruin that. I've been hammering on it for hours now, and it's been no good. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted April 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 Still no movement out of it :( Been hammering and fighting it for about 2 hours now and it hasn't even budged. It's almost 8:30, the neighbors are bitchin and I work in the morning. Quote Link to comment
Mini-L320 Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 Get a tie Rod Fork, and it will come off easily. $8 at autozone Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted April 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 Get a tie Rod Fork, and it will come off easily. $8 at autozone But how do I do it without killing that seal/bushing between the link? Makes no sense. Unless that bushing isn't necessary? Quote Link to comment
Mini-L320 Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 But how do I do it without killing that seal/bushing between the link? Makes no sense. Unless that bushing isn't necessary? Ah yes it is necessary. I got lucky I guess when I banged mine out, because i didnt damage my bushing. Try ur luck and see what happens. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted April 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 its off! but how do I get the castle nut tightened down without the shaft spinning? Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 Air ratchet/impact gun, makes it a lot easier. Electric impact if you don't have air. Also, clean the tapered stud with some 220 sandpaper, just clean it up so it grabs better, and do the same to the inside of the drag link. Then put together and hold with visegrips, that should do it. Just don't take off a bunch of material when you sandpaper it. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 I have never had the shaft spin in the hole, but I suppose it could if you hurt the threads trying to get it out. I just use the tierod fork, I have better things to do than wailing on a piece of metal for undetermined amounts of time. If it messes up the little piece of rubber a little, so what, water that gets in there can escape now. :lol: Quote Link to comment
Mini-L320 Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 Needle Nose Pliers will hold it, enough so it will get to a point where you can just tighten the nut down without using the pliers to hold it. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted April 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 Got it The threads were a little hurt, so it was a PITA, but she's on the car. I drove it and it drives like new. Thanks for the suggestions guys! They really helped. Quote Link to comment
littlejason Posted April 23, 2011 Report Share Posted April 23, 2011 I guess this conversation is over, but what exactly did you replace? (I recently posted an idler arm question, maybe you saw it) Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted April 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2011 I guess this conversation is over, but what exactly did you replace? (I recently posted an idler arm question, maybe you saw it) I replaced the whole Idler arm assembly. Removing it from the body wasn't a problem, but getting it off the steering shaft was a bitch. My ball joint separator would have been perfect, but it wasn't wide enough to clear that bushing and not tear it up. So, I took out the welder and took some measurements, then made a cheap little tool. Knocked it out, put the knew one in and SUCCESS. 3 hours of work is done. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted April 23, 2011 Report Share Posted April 23, 2011 So, I took out the welder and took some measurements, then made a cheap little tool. Where's the oics? Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted April 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2011 2eDeYe' date='23 April 2011 - 08:40 AM' timestamp='1303573240' post='464471']Where's the oics? Thats a good question The tool is somewhere in a pile now. I threw it out of anger. Would make a nice write up though Guess I'll have to try and replicate it Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.