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Help - I fryed my fuse box then some


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the sad thing is i have a NOS fusebox and new fuses on the way!!!!!!! My only other question is do i need to replace the clip on the wiring harness too? the metal piece you see sticking out of the wiring harness is practically part of the clipblink.gif

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...You need more than a fusible link. The link should burn before the fuse box, but it wouldnt be the cause of the problem. If you replace the fuseblock and add a fusible link, youre going to end up having the same problem.

 

Have you checked your electrical connections? I dont remember which circuit that is exactly... It could be headlights or starter solenoid depending on year. (Im looking at two fuse block covers...) If its your head lights, pull the plugs on the back of the headlights and make sure that they are clean, if its the solenoid, do a search on here for "Slodat hot start relay" and do it... Its easy to do and fairly cheap if using new parts and can be done for free if you can snag a relay and wiring from the junk yard.

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Got to love the fusible link, Mine always works ;)

 

Dan, im going to hold off on your fuse box untill tomorrow. Ill PM you if i still need it after my trip to the junkyard, fingers crossed that the wiring harness still has that clip on it

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ggzilla,

 

im going to the JY tomorrow on my lunch break. Their inventory says they have 3 and between the 3 of them i hope i can get a temporary fuse box that will work until my NOS gets here and a new wiring harness clip that isn't melted. we shall see. If anybody else needs something let me know, ill see if i can grab it for you while im there.

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I have some a couple 'melt' similar to your's where a fuse didn't blow and the fusible link didn't melt.

Seems that corroded connection (where it melted) where the cause, probalby a slow melt over time.

 

I think you've nailed it. I had a 720 fuse box do the same. Any corosion and there is resistance. When the headlights are on there is normal current fow through the fuse but the added resistance causes hat andit gets HOT!!! Sometomes the headlights would dim orflicker andI would reach down and rub the fuse to get better contact... burned my finger. Eventually I had to take a look and the holder was all melted arund the fuse. The720 us the plastic plug intype. I had to repace the box and the one set of contacts. My 620 befoe this did thesame thing butdn't get t the melting the box. Wht happened was the metal clips thet hold the fuse wer so hot they lost their temper and springiness and wouldn't hold te fuse tight enough which made a bad problem worse.

 

Because no extra crrent is being drawn the fuse nd the fuseable link do not blow. The resistance causes heat and that's the prblem.

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I have some a couple 'melt' similar to your's where a fuse didn't blow and the fusible link didn't melt.

Seems that corroded connection (where it melted) where the cause, probalby a slow melt over time.

 

 

your prob dead on there, thats a common problem with the 240z fuse boxes as well.

the back side of the fuse holders get corroded and eventually melts out the plastic

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Just got back from th JY and i got what i needed

 

0538dd71.jpg

 

when i got to the counter and showed the guy what i had pulled he looked at me and said "thats it?" "have a nice day ;)" FREEBIE, now to grab a coiuple fuseable links on the way home just incase and then i can get my truck back on the road. I dont enjoy driving as much when i have to drive the mini van <_<

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So I have a question for everyone, do I really need the wiring harness clip or is it unnessisary? Can't I just add new ends and then attach the ends strait to the fuse box? Or am I missing something here? It seems like the wiring harness clip is just there to make it A. Easier to take on and off and B. To make sure you dont plug the wrong wire into the wrong spot on the back of the box

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Without that wire you wouldn't have CONSTANT power going to the headlights. The three spots on the bottom side of your fuse box pictured, look like they too are CONSTANT powered. The two next to the headlight fuse are switched on with the ignition. If you have the wiring with the new box, wire it up and run it.

How about a picture of the back of the new one.

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