jesusno2 Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 So this plate will soon become bag mounts doubling as shock mounts for the upper plates. and i got the diagonal brackets done i will trim them down as needed once the misalignment spacers show up. should have pics of that this weekend 1 Quote Link to comment
Rustina 510 Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 Wow that is so bad ass. I wish I could weld stuff up like that. Great job. Quote Link to comment
mcmlxxxv Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 THIS THREAD = PORN!! Your work is awsome man ! subscribed!! Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 I don't call it work when its fun to do lol 1 Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted July 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 Paper or plastic Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 I accept all major credit cards, cashiers check, cash...... LMAO!. Quote Link to comment
mcmlxxxv Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 I think he was referring to the bags lol Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 I think he was referring to the bags lol Yea i know sometimes my humor doesnt come out in text. or its me that just thinks it's funny :rofl: Bags are on their way. hopefully they send me the right ones not alot of space for one of those fat bastard air bags. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 nice work.... aren't u worried about the shorter upper creating a bind against the driveline... when i mocked up a similar link like this the difference in length was mutliplying a twisting force....i had to get with in a half inch to be comfortable with the degree change at the pinion..even with a small stroke bag...my best design so far using a parallel 5 link was taking your inner bars and putting a little kick in them to grab the rear end on top closer to center line....and keeping them closer to the same length... i also am using a smaller bushing end so i can minimize my tab height...that looks like a super bushings from thorbecke...good up to one ton trucks...looking at the inner bar the tab could be way shorter on the rear end side and gain you about a inch but the would require new bars... i kinda gave up on the four link idea with saving the floor....different length bars just creates to much muliplicity... i actually have gone back to your original wagon trailing arm build ... i like how the change to the pinion is static.... ahh if i could only have back the time i spent laying under my goon looking for the answer....wanting to save the seat ...and tank....and not cut the floor up...its been a triangulated with some raised seat pan idea, parralalel, some funky triangulated trailing arms, your traction style trailing arms, back to a parralel fourlink and now back to your original...i just want a simple answer and the goon is tricky...trust me at one point i almost went full minitruck and just cut the floor out... Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 alright so after thinking some... i think i will go back to this parallel 4 lilnk... between your fab work and johnbreezu linked sr goon i think i have figure a way i can have exhaust..& have this style....thanks for posting such nice pics... i would still try and lengthen that inner bar .. i think moving the mounting closer to the rear axle tube will get u close enough to not notice much degree change through the 4-5 travel...i think if u did similar to what u did in your goon thread and made the mounts off the front of the axle u could have kept them closer to the same length...but i like the tabs and how they look.... coupe questions so at full stuff .....are u bottomed out on the snubber pad(ie metal hump ...no snubber anymore..) or are u hitting the floor at that height....when we comppressed mine to the hump the lip of the wheel was almost touching the arch...im trying to save the rear package tray on mine ...no hole... but the hump and rear seat pan will need some work...i alos am using the factory rear seat pan but adapting a late model cushion to match my front so its far thinner...we will see...i like where this thread is headed u have my interest... .what bags are using...i held a 2500 up in there in a few places ... they fit best in front of the axle...but exhaust would be tricky... tried some sleeved bags .... diameter is right but the length is kinda a waste....there are some cool specific bags out there...i dont really wanna spend any money so i was trying to see what i had that would work...behind the axle is tough for panhard bar and gas tank clearance...i know frm my exxperience with trucks 35-40 lbs in the rear is perfect i imagine being a little booty heavy the best air pressure will be about 60 psi... also when at full stuff... wheres the inner bar riding in relation to the floor...ie clearance....hitting floor.... Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted July 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 Wow. I sometimes don't put that much thought in to things. I'm open to cutting the floor. With my bidding hitch, I will need a custom tank. I do a rear seat, but thinking something custom Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 i saw that hitch ,......thats awesome..i wanna tow my stand ups with my goon.....for a tank i just took a round long tank to the band saw cut along the long side plated it and now it tucks up behind the rear apron and u can not see it... its only thee gallons but im only baggin the rear...got a thomas compressor out of a range rover and some left over 3/8 valves..should be plenty to lift rear to full height once or more....its not like my minis that have like 15 gallons air....funny story u would appreciate james, on my mazda i plumbed in a milton t style coupler and had a 15' coil hose and i could run my d/a off my truck....even used it once for some onsite plasma with my handy dandy generator... as far as what jesus is doing to your goon ... its beautiful i didn't mean to come across as a jerk ... i just saw that issue and just wanted to share some of the mistakes i made over time... its not a failure type thing just unnecessary u joint wear..... it wont hurt it just might have some vibration through the travel and wear out u joints....oh and its hard on the pinion bearing...but that took years of abuse before failing in my experience... I remember one impatient friend of mine did a triangulated in his little s 10 by himself cause i said it would be month or two....looked fine welds were fine... he neglected to tell me he cut the uppers down a 1.5" to fit behind the exhaust bracket... lasted about 6 months then scattered his u joint...dropped the driveline on the highway and broke the yoke on the front of his rearend....tow truck....but the kid also was a power switch hitter....(read abusive to truck) i dont hit a switch unless i see something i have to avoid in the road..(ok not entirely true.i have been known to drop it at a light for a betty now and again....but shes gotta look dtf..)..) Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 I dunno why your were getting such a drastic pinion angle change?? my pinion angle on this one does change but nothing drastic in the range of suspension travel i have to work with. antisquat plays a part in this in which way the pinion angles through travel. the way I have the brackets setup pinion actually points to the ground on up travel about 1 degree. But your right building this system under a wagon it's not gonna have perfect geometry. its not a race car either so the sacrafice in geometry is fine. Only way to set it up perfectly is to move the whole floor and cargo area up a great deal. I've let james know about it and he's fine with it so thats the best i can do. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 But your right building this system under a wagon it's not gonna have perfect geometry. its not a race car either so the sacrafice in geometry is fine. thats the mini truckers mantra......i was only saying cause different length links travel different arcs and that will cause a twisting force on the housing but as u noted as long as it neglagble throughout he travel its not important..i tell people as long as u dont have vibration u aren't intentionally wearing anything out...i really like what your doing its given me a fresh take on what i have been stewing about .......your fab work looks even better on this one..... but what about my questions what bags.....where u mounting them and what about inner bar clearance at full stuff.....and wheres full stuff....suspension bottom out on psuedo frame rail....would u gain any drop kinking the upper bar.....i knwo the floor has that wierd dip before it goes up......ps post a pic of your wrx goon ima sucker for a thumper with rear entrance..... Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 at full stuff up against the bump stops hard (lifting the car) everything clears by about a 1 1/2. I trimmed off alot of the stock bump stop and it hits in the stock position just like it did with the leaf springs. Bags are going to mount right in front basically on top of the upper bar and i'm building those flat plates to bolt into where the factory shocks bolted into and the brace behind them. their a 1500lb bag Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 so a single bellow? that's awesome...looks like off the top bar wil be perfect for the original body crossmber....how come u dont remove snubbers and more loar it u will have to tunnel surgery but looks like cake work for u....please more pics.... Quote Link to comment
Ranman72 Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 I cant wait to see this it is going to be bad ass Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 James has already raised the tunnel in this car. Im leaving the bump stops at this height because they are rubber factory stops. I dunno how far they squish on hard compression nor do i know what pressure ride height will be. If James feels the need to cut them down more he can. I don't want any chance of metal on metal contact its so very annoying in a uni body car. And just retarded. So im leaving them at this height for now. Quote Link to comment
crewy Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 The back portion is turning out really clean. I do agree with flaming on the shorter bar aspect. Ive been bagging cars/trucks for years and I do alot of repairs of people doing shorter bars and the wrong way of triangle set ups. Yours is really clean though. The biggest thing like you said is the squashing point of the system. Even the drag cars parallel 4 links the bars are the same length and they just squat upon take off 3-4 inches. Again not trying to put you down because your job is really clean and well thought out not like most people that take upon to do it themselves. Great job and cant wait to meet up with james and check it out when he gets it back. Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 k i guess i will be known as flaming hahhahahaha...the old opposing fourlink mini truck set up of the 90's ....very useable not very theoretcally sound.... finally someone else with a one ton in there avatar... Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted July 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 If ya all need to know how to make it look good, talk to me. Angles and pinion holes just makes me confused, after reading all that, i need a beer :thumbup: Bagging the wagon trailer too Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted July 29, 2012 Report Share Posted July 29, 2012 Ok so here's the upper bag/shock mount plates. soon as the bags get here i will make the mount for the shock so i know it clears everything. plates are 10x12 square and i had to put a 5 degree brake in them 3 1/2 inches from the end. Their solid as sears. I wanted to get the diagonal link done also, but parts didn't show up yet, and I think i need to remake the bracket's offset, or bend the bar dunno yet how that gonna play out. drive shaft yoke hits on droop. Quote Link to comment
Siqx20 Posted July 29, 2012 Report Share Posted July 29, 2012 this thing is super cool. going to have to keep an eye on this one. 1 Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted July 31, 2012 Report Share Posted July 31, 2012 Fun bags are here! Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted July 31, 2012 Report Share Posted July 31, 2012 1/2 port.....? Quote Link to comment
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