metalmonkey47 Posted November 27, 2010 Report Share Posted November 27, 2010 I need you guys ASAP I'm wiring now and it's fucking cold. I got a streetfire MSD box for my 210 and the diagram for electronic ignition the diagram shows that the green and purple wires run to the dizzy. My dizzy has a black/white and blue from the box to the coil. black/white being negative on the coil and blue is positive. Any advice on figuring out which goes where? Quote Link to comment
Logical1 Posted November 27, 2010 Report Share Posted November 27, 2010 Not sure if it is the same as my matchbox dizzy wiring on a L18 but I made a diagram for it: Wire colors might not match but really its just power/ground Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted November 27, 2010 Report Share Posted November 27, 2010 Not sure if it is the same as my matchbox dizzy wiring on a L18 but I made a diagram for it: Wire colors might not match but really its just power/ground I've never seen switched 12v going to the distributer.If it is an electronic dizzy,the diagram is correct EXCEPT for the following: Thin red off of box goes to sawitched 12v. white wire(points trigger)is not used. Magnetic pick-up is connected to the electronic module(dizzy) Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted November 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2010 Not sure if it is the same as my matchbox dizzy wiring on a L18 but I made a diagram for it: Wire colors might not match but really its just power/ground Thats the way I've got it hooked up and it's just blowing the ignition control fuse :( Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted November 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2010 I've never seen switched 12v going to the distributer.If it is an electronic dizzy,the diagram is correct EXCEPT for the following: Thin red off of box goes to sawitched 12v. white wire(points trigger)is not used. Magnetic pick-up is connected to the electronic module(dizzy) Thats what miniL320 told me, but the question is, am I removing the original ignition control module? Or what? The wiring in his directions from the dizzy are a different color (I imagine because he has a different gen dizzy) then mine. The magnetic pickup is purple and green and my dizzy wires are blue and black/white (coming from the harness that plugs into the ign control module). What goes to what? Quote Link to comment
Logical1 Posted November 27, 2010 Report Share Posted November 27, 2010 Well like I said, not sure if my diagram translates to other set-ups. I made that diagram for bare MINIMUM wiring to run the engine with just a battery/alt, MSD box, & matchbox dizzy. Mine runs like a champ and has been working for well over a year. I completely re-wired my dime from scratch in a very ummm... interesting way :P Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted November 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2010 Well like I said, not sure if my diagram translates to other set-ups. I made that diagram for bare MINIMUM wiring to run the engine with just a battery/alt, MSD box, & matchbox dizzy. Mine runs like a champ and has been working for well over a year. I completely re-wired my dime from scratch in a very ummm... interesting way :P Mines far from minimum :( Shit's everywhere. lol Do you still have the IGN control module on the dizzy? Quote Link to comment
Logical1 Posted November 28, 2010 Report Share Posted November 28, 2010 Yea I still have the module on, Bonvo & Mike said you don't need a MSD box with electronics ignition and Bonvo made this diagram for just newer coil and matchbox dizzy: I wanted to run the MSD box for the multiple spark discharge. Check out the discussion on electronic ignition from my build thread: Devil In a Blue Dress Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted November 28, 2010 Report Share Posted November 28, 2010 Mines far from minimum :( Shit's everywhere. lol Do you still have the IGN control module on the dizzy? the module is equivalent to the MSD box. you only need one of them. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted November 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2010 the module is equivalent to the MSD box. you only need one of them. So bassically, remove the module? There would be two wires behind it then. Which would, once again, confirm what minil320 was saying :rofl: Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 28, 2010 Report Share Posted November 28, 2010 Find the orginal MSDbox and receipt. place MSD in box drive to nearest River. Thow in water. Blk Box match box if on your 210 dizzy is good , no need to get a MSD. I find them unreliable. Some people swear by them others not. your waisting your time and money on that thing. Unless you running stinky old leaky SUs that need to burn all that gas washing down the motor at idle. Z train is correct about the 12volt ON ingition. Just needs one wire will turn the box on.Then it powers up the rest. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 Some people swear by them others ... ...swear at them. MSD - may suddenly die. the one im using is 15+ years old, raced, other than a broken wire and the stupid tach(stock) adapter, its been fine. Quote Link to comment
Mini-L320 Posted December 8, 2010 Report Share Posted December 8, 2010 MSD Box is the Best if you have it set up Correctly. My 210 starts right up, pump gas pedal 3 times and turn switch and Vroom vroom!! :D. Blue is Positive and Black/White is Negative. On my Distributor I have Red and Green. Red is Positive and Green is Negative. So your Blue connects to Green MSD wire and Black/white to Purple on MSD Wire. Then you have Black and Orange Wires coming out MSD box which go: Black to Negative on Coil and Orange Positive on Coil. Big Red Wire goes to Positive on Battery Big Black Wire goes to Negative on Battery Little Red Wire (from MSD box) goes to Ignition Fuse on Fuse Box. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted December 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2010 Oh yeah, I got it now ;) Just trying to get a few bugs worked out Quote Link to comment
Driftastic210 Posted December 11, 2010 Report Share Posted December 11, 2010 so any noticeable difference? i was going to go with a KA swap but the A15 thats in it now runs so nice and the internals appear to be spotlessly clean. So I think im going to keep it and just do some minor bolt ons to improve throttle response and efficiency. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 11, 2010 Report Share Posted December 11, 2010 so any noticeable difference? Oh, not really ,but my wallet is way thinner ;) Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted December 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 so any noticeable difference? i was going to go with a KA swap but the A15 thats in it now runs so nice and the internals appear to be spotlessly clean. So I think im going to keep it and just do some minor bolt ons to improve throttle response and efficiency. Actually, I noticed a HUGE difference!! Only problem is that since it's a multispark box, it magnifies every single ignition issue x10. I found after that the timing was off by about 40 degrees and a whole tooth on the distributor. Also had to lock out the vac advance to get it to run right. But after all is done, it revs like an indy car! Runs way smoother. I can bump the starter and it will fire right up. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 18, 2010 Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 It starts better because it isn't one tooth off anymore. Also if working right it will run better with vacuum advance. Better off idle performance and mileage. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted December 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 It starts better because it isn't one tooth off anymore. Also if working right it will run better with vacuum advance. Better off idle performance and mileage. I know that's true Well, I have two diaphragms. From what I've managed to find, one is cold and warm advance. The cold advance leaks so i hooked to the warm advance and I have an issue with it missing and not firing right about 2300RPM when driving regularly. If I floor it then it runs better. Never figured it out, but it runs 10X better without the advance. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 18, 2010 Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 Some models (kalifornia) have a vacuum delay for the advance. Well as long as it works well that the whole point. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 18, 2010 Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 I found after that the timing was off by about 40 degrees and a whole tooth on the distributor. WTF?????????????????? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 18, 2010 Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 I found after that the timing was off by about 40 degrees and a whole tooth on the distributor. WTF?????????????????? One tooth = 18 degrees. Vacuum advance may be stuck full on and no need to move one tooth?? Also vacuum was disconnected to get it to run right which tells me this isn't fixed right yet and it could maybe run even better yet.. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted December 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2010 One tooth = 18 degrees. Vacuum advance may be stuck full on and no need to move one tooth?? Also vacuum was disconnected to get it to run right which tells me this isn't fixed right yet and it could maybe run even better yet.. actually, the advance is stuck. I'm going to pick up a new reman dizzy from Rock Auto and get it timed correctly! Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 29, 2010 Report Share Posted December 29, 2010 i had a bad vac adv stuck also but it should have still ran soemwhat OK 210 use a worm gear drive and dizzy could still be off. so put on TDC and roor should be right plug wire with timming plate in center Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted December 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2010 i had a bad vac adv stuck also but it should have still ran soemwhat OK 210 use a worm gear drive and dizzy could still be off. so put on TDC and roor should be right plug wire with timming plate in center Well it was okay with the stock ignition, but with a multispark ignition that fires for 20 degrees of crank rotation, it's a much more obvious problem. Thanks for the advice. I will check up on that ;) Quote Link to comment
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