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MSD into 210. HELP!!! Asap


metalmonkey47

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I need you guys ASAP I'm wiring now and it's fucking cold.

 

I got a streetfire MSD box for my 210 and the diagram for electronic ignition the diagram shows that the green and purple wires run to the dizzy. My dizzy has a black/white and blue from the box to the coil. black/white being negative on the coil and blue is positive. Any advice on figuring out which goes where?

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Not sure if it is the same as my matchbox dizzy wiring on a L18 but I made a diagram for it:

MSD1.jpg

 

Wire colors might not match but really its just power/ground

I've never seen switched 12v going to the distributer.If it is an electronic dizzy,the diagram is correct EXCEPT for the following:

 

Thin red off of box goes to sawitched 12v.

white wire(points trigger)is not used.

Magnetic pick-up is connected to the electronic module(dizzy)

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Not sure if it is the same as my matchbox dizzy wiring on a L18 but I made a diagram for it:

MSD1.jpg

 

Wire colors might not match but really its just power/ground

 

Thats the way I've got it hooked up and it's just blowing the ignition control fuse :(

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I've never seen switched 12v going to the distributer.If it is an electronic dizzy,the diagram is correct EXCEPT for the following:

 

Thin red off of box goes to sawitched 12v.

white wire(points trigger)is not used.

Magnetic pick-up is connected to the electronic module(dizzy)

 

Thats what miniL320 told me, but the question is, am I removing the original ignition control module? Or what? The wiring in his directions from the dizzy are a different color (I imagine because he has a different gen dizzy) then mine. The magnetic pickup is purple and green and my dizzy wires are blue and black/white (coming from the harness that plugs into the ign control module). What goes to what?

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Well like I said, not sure if my diagram translates to other set-ups. I made that diagram for bare MINIMUM wiring to run the engine with just a battery/alt, MSD box, & matchbox dizzy. Mine runs like a champ and has been working for well over a year. I completely re-wired my dime from scratch in a very ummm... interesting way :P

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Well like I said, not sure if my diagram translates to other set-ups. I made that diagram for bare MINIMUM wiring to run the engine with just a battery/alt, MSD box, & matchbox dizzy. Mine runs like a champ and has been working for well over a year. I completely re-wired my dime from scratch in a very ummm... interesting way :P

 

Mines far from minimum :( Shit's everywhere. lol

 

 

Do you still have the IGN control module on the dizzy?

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Find the orginal MSDbox and receipt. place MSD in box

drive to nearest River. Thow in water.

 

Blk Box match box if on your 210 dizzy is good , no need to get a MSD. I find them unreliable.

 

Some people swear by them others not.

 

your waisting your time and money on that thing.

Unless you running stinky old leaky SUs that need to burn all that gas washing down the motor at idle.

 

 

Z train is correct about the 12volt ON ingition. Just needs one wire will turn the box on.Then it powers up the rest.

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  • 2 weeks later...

MSD Box is the Best if you have it set up Correctly. My 210 starts right up, pump gas pedal 3 times and turn switch and Vroom vroom!! :D.

 

Blue is Positive and Black/White is Negative.

On my Distributor I have Red and Green. Red is Positive and Green is Negative.

 

So your Blue connects to Green MSD wire and Black/white to Purple on MSD Wire.

Then you have Black and Orange Wires coming out MSD box which go: Black to Negative on Coil and Orange Positive on Coil.

 

Big Red Wire goes to Positive on Battery

Big Black Wire goes to Negative on Battery

 

Little Red Wire (from MSD box) goes to Ignition Fuse on Fuse Box.

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so any noticeable difference? i was going to go with a KA swap but the A15 thats in it now runs so nice and the internals appear to be spotlessly clean. So I think im going to keep it and just do some minor bolt ons to improve throttle response and efficiency.

 

Actually, I noticed a HUGE difference!! Only problem is that since it's a multispark box, it magnifies every single ignition issue x10. I found after that the timing was off by about 40 degrees and a whole tooth on the distributor. Also had to lock out the vac advance to get it to run right. But after all is done, it revs like an indy car! Runs way smoother. I can bump the starter and it will fire right up.

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It starts better because it isn't one tooth off anymore. Also if working right it will run better with vacuum advance. Better off idle performance and mileage.

 

I know that's true laugh.gif

 

Well, I have two diaphragms. From what I've managed to find, one is cold and warm advance. The cold advance leaks so i hooked to the warm advance and I have an issue with it missing and not firing right about 2300RPM when driving regularly. If I floor it then it runs better. Never figured it out, but it runs 10X better without the advance.

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I found after that the timing was off by about 40 degrees and a whole tooth on the distributor.

 

 

WTF??????????????????

 

One tooth = 18 degrees. Vacuum advance may be stuck full on and no need to move one tooth?? Also vacuum was disconnected to get it to run right which tells me this isn't fixed right yet and it could maybe run even better yet..

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One tooth = 18 degrees. Vacuum advance may be stuck full on and no need to move one tooth?? Also vacuum was disconnected to get it to run right which tells me this isn't fixed right yet and it could maybe run even better yet..

 

actually, the advance is stuck. I'm going to pick up a new reman dizzy from Rock Auto and get it timed correctly!

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i had a bad vac adv stuck also but it should have still ran soemwhat OK

 

210 use a worm gear drive and dizzy could still be off. so put on TDC and roor should be right plug wire with timming plate in center

 

Well it was okay with the stock ignition, but with a multispark ignition that fires for 20 degrees of crank rotation, it's a much more obvious problem.

 

Thanks for the advice. I will check up on that ;)

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