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Deboxing a 510


Everat

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its a real Frankenstein right now. my air compressor is only a 30 gallon so when Im grinding the welds i get about 30 seconds of grind then have to wait about 2 minutes for the air to catch up. It drives me crazy, I was about to buy a 220v 60gallon compressor right before I got laid off. Slow economy and winter suck.

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I that the Miller 211? If so that's what I have, I find it's kind of difficult to do sheet metal because it has the weird cold start function. I have to turn mine to around 5 then do very quick zaps, with lots of cooling of coarse :)

 

Looks awesome dude!!!!

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My welder is a miller 140as, its got that "smooth start" also and I have the same problem as you. I either have it set to 4 and do a long zap or do it your way. I dont usually put it to 5 because I stress about warpage but in the wheel well I put it to 5 and let it rip.

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Yeah mine is the same way, if you get the zap timed just right on number 5 is does such a awesome spot weld, if you give it a little to long it does get hot FAST. I don't know why miller doesn't make a setting for guys like us :)

 

Dude car looks awesome! I remember Augusto always talked about what you are doing. Your going to have to swing it by his place when you are done!

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Yeah I will, I'm starting to think I'll be done sooner than later, once the metal works done the bodywork will go really fast and the metalwork on the right side will be easier than the left side. If I had a bigger work space and better equipment I'd be done already.

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UuugHh! Did you weld all the way? Or Spot Weld? Either way sheet metal can stretch out with too much heat at once. I messed up a door once at a body shop class I took a few years back. My class project back then was shaving off the handles on a 91 Civic. I cut out a piece of metal to cover up the gaps and spot welded too fast which made it warp quite a bit. Then again this is tin can 90's Sheet Metal.

Sometimes even after you body hammer it will have a pop up effect because the metal is streched out. If I remember right, my teacher back then would torch up the high streched metal bumps and bang it back down with a body hammer. This shrinks down the metal, I would use fibergalss instead of body filler to even out your body lines.

Body filler will just crack especially if you end up building up a thick layer.

Also I happen to have an extra brand new OEM intake gasket. It fits the S13 SR20DE and DET's. I know you got the S14 so I dunno if its the same. Let me kno!

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thanks,Yeah I already did

 

I was thinking about shaving my 70 2dr. Just because I like the 68-69 bullet style blinkers but not the rectangle ones so much. How legal is it to have them shaved? Do you have any pictures of 510's done with shaved sidemarkers? Just curious.

 

I'm in Arlington, hopefuly we BOTH have our cars running by this spring eh? Cya round.

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I spot weld, it will end up being less bondo than the car had before.I was aiming for as little bondo as possible but welding in three pieces into one quarter isnt a recipe for success. I think the cold weather might have affected it some also. Ive done plenty of small patches but this was definatly the biggest area Ive done. Im gonna be using allmetal for the big spots. It will be fine and the other side will be cleaner.

 

I dont think the s13 one works for mine. they have different part numbers atleast. Is your oem one a paper gasket? Because if it is Ill just make one from my gasket material.

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Yeah the gasket is different. I just checked at FRsports. The one I got is metal and it looks like they got yours in metal too.

http://www.frsport.com/Genuine-OEM-Nissan-Intake-Manifold-Gasket-S14-S15-SR20DET_p_9500.html

I still suggest you do fiverglass over body filler if you end up over 1/4 thick in filler.

 

 

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if by fiberglass you mean duraglas or long n strong that stuff is great but i would suggest using all metal first over your patches and over grinded welds then you can use duraglass. the biggest reason is it doesnt shrink or absorb primer as much and it uses fiberglas hardener too. also it is a little stronger. if you dont use all metal then is would go with duraglas, its the shit! also if you dont completly weld up seams they Will crack out eventually. for stretch metal you can use a unispotter without a nail and it will shrink the metal just like a torch but faster and its more concentrated to one area, i have one you can use bob o

 

 

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Yeah you know how it is James. I run everything by you first, whatever you say goes. You do this shit for a living so I'm going by your plan. You paint 80,000 hotrods for a living, if it's good enough for them then it will work for a 510

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