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Need Some Help


Brian D

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Would anybody in the portland area be interested in making a little money, free beer and helping me getting my 520 running right. I don't know much about points and timing and I would love to learn. I have to have the truck on the road as of next weekend.

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Check Mike Klotz's how to's he did a conversion of a match box distributor for an J mototr I beleive.

 

As far as points go they ar easy.

 

Pull the coil wire out of the coil & the distriboutor cap.

 

Remove the rotor.

 

Turn the motor over using a ratchet & socket on the crank pulley bolt until the the points start to open.

 

Look at the the distributor shaft where the points ride there are 4 high areas on the the shaft that as the shaft turns these high areas cause the points to open.

 

Turn the motor with the ratchet & socket until one of the high points is directly under the point's rubbing block. When you have the distributor shaft in this position the points will be in the maximum open position.

 

Take the apprpriate feeler gauge and adjust the points accordingly by loosening the points hold down screws just enough to be able to adjust the points.

 

Look closely at the points be fore loosening them to determine which screw is the pivot & which screw is the lock down screw (will be the scre that is in the slotted hole in the points). Remember to keep these screws a little snug as to put some pressure on the points so the points do not just flop loose they are under spring tension.

 

After adjusting the points with the feeler gauge tighten the slotted screw first the the pivot screw. Recheck with the feeler gauge to besure the points adjustment did not change from tightening. If the adjustment is good then replace the rotor the cap & the coil wire.

 

Points are done.

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I can do. My biggest problem is getting it to run smooth. I know the points need to be adjusted, but I don't think it is going to solve my biggest issue of lots of back fire and some flame from exhaust along with rough idle. i have to hold the throttle 3/4 open and rev to get it to start running smooth.

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Have you checked the valve clearance? When it has a miss at lower RPMs and it sounds like it gets better at higher RPMs but still has that sound, it's just smoother, then I check the color of the spark plugs and find the one that is differant. That is always the one that is too tight, like it's open all the time, no play in the rocker. I have assumed that the plug IS getting spark in that cylinder, and the carbarator is good. wayno

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Did I meet you over at the free 521 strip in beaverton? Where you should start is adjust the points as discribed earlier in this thread, if you do not have a feeler gauge then go buy one, charlie69 discribed the way to do it, your to far away for me to go there with all the projects I have going. If you can get it over here(vancouver wa.) i'll help you. If it still runs like shit then you need to figure out which cyl. is missing, you can pull the plugs and see which one is differant or you can pull spark plug wires one at a time at the cap while it is running, be aware that you can get ZAPPED if you do it to slow or without protection, it will run the same when you get to the bad cylinder, when you pull a good plug it will run worse. When you find the bad one, then pull the valve cover and check the clearances of that cylinder, and all the other ones too. If there good, and all the other stuff(cap, rotor, spark plug wires, points, timing, ect.) is good, then it could be the carbarator, if it's the carb, I can't help you, I know shit about down draft carbs. wayno

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Yeah that was me. I put in new ngk's, wires, cap rotor. It seems to be way to rich. I get smoke form the carb and somtimes flame. I will go out and check spark. It si no prob that you can't make it over, i understand. I am just getting stressed because somone on here was gonna come help me and I have never heard back form them. I hope i can get it figured out because i have to give my work van back next sat. Thank you for pointing me in the right direction and I will go get more info

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Well It was a weak coil, I swaped the points because the were only $3 and the timing was off also. I had a bunch of stuff but learned a lot about timing and points. The tranny is shot. I can't get it to go in gear most of the time, the shifter has A TON of side to side play and it needs a clutch. I figured I will just swap the tranny to a good one if I can find one and do the clutch at the same time.

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Hi there Brian, the timing is way off on the tranny, I couldn't sell one for anything, I didn't get one response, so I ended up scraping two of them, I have another one coming in a 66 520, i'll keep you and Jay in mind if I don't use that drivetrain, don't know if it runs yet. I'm glad you figured out what the problem was with your truck. HOW did you figure out it was the coil? wayno

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Wow, that is all so good to know. Hope that how to helps you figure out how to find a used transmission for your truck little buddy!! Then you can put it in gear and pull up to the weigh station and have the weighmasters wonder why some Tatooed white trash in a sweet little datsun knew exactly how to pull onto the scales!!!

 

YAY for ratsun! The forum where replying is like art, some see a beautifully crafted post, and most others see an off the wall pile of yaak poo!

 

Bill

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