DISLEXICDIME Posted January 24, 2008 Report Share Posted January 24, 2008 look for something like this some times they are black and made of plastic it is on your right fender well by the fender http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-280Z-620-VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-NEW_W0QQitemZ330205379435QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item330205379435 Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted January 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2008 hmmmmmm could this be it????? i can look more in the morning but i just happend to have this pic Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 24, 2008 Report Share Posted January 24, 2008 GGZILLA Alternator voltage is perfect (14 volts) and battery seems OK. is that at night with the lights ON? If still 14 volts Then you have a short somewhere. get a 4 $ test light now remove the Neg battery cable. Now place the test light between the neg post of batter and the Neg batt cable. if the light is on you have a short which is completeing the circut. and draining the battery. I would leave the trest light on there and disconnect the volt reg. then alternator. if light still on start popping fuses till the light goes out. When light goes out you know the circut then have to trouble shoot using a wirre diagram. ask yourself was anything spliced in?????stereo.alam ect. seat installed and smashed the wires going to the back. anything Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted January 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2008 i had it checked for a draw at auto zone.. the guy did exactly what you just said and there was no draw anywhere.. the alt was charing at 15.6 and the battery had 12.4v im thinkin i might have a externaly regulated setup and it maybe the regulator thats the problem.. does it look like what i circled in the pic Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 Josh, unless you changed it you have a voltage reg on your '77. Did you do the test with the head lights on? Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted January 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 yea the guy had me do all kinds of things he said it all checked out perfect.. i assumed that bad headlight was the problem but its disconnected completely and that charge light comes on.. im almost positive if i ran with headlights it would end up dying on me :( so i DO have a volt reg. ?? i will price one.. Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 go to p a w there is one ther Quote Link to comment
Guest DatsuNoob Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 they cost more than an alternator! Shitty. I think the guy at autozone quoted me almost $70 for one! Maybe you could get one from a local JY for around $5 or less. Whenever I check a 620, they're usually gone or crusty as hell. Quote Link to comment
LeDevil Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 Josh your regulator should be right behind the battery it's the gold thing right behind my battery Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted January 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 ok cool, costless has it for 53.. i will get one when i have the cash thanks guys Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 Yes -- I have one of those boxes, it looks just like the photos. What should I do with it? it is: 14 volts with engine running, headlights off 13.5 volts with engine running, headlights on I have discovered that if I disconnect the battery cable overnight or while at work, I have no problem. But if I leave it on, even 8 hours while at work, the battery is totally dead. I will try the test light method. I didn't see any spark when connecting the battery cable. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 ggzilla your voltages look about normal to me I believe you have a short somewhere. MY yellow 510 whn I first own it would kill a battery in about 2/3 days. I trouble shot it down to somebody wired the tach to the 12volt cig light circut(which is power all the time). which means it found a ground to complete the circut and drained the battery. However the tach input signal was never hooked up thinking it was NEVER on in the 1st place. I worked on Dave's(1low620) 521 once also and there was a drain on it also using the test light. I disconnected the alternator and the test light went out. I assume a diode shorted out. I believe he replaced the alternator ,distributor was 180 off and Jeff Hino got it running thats why I say disconnect the volt reg and alternator first. I assume your volt reg is OK. also On another 510 I seen over voltage. Just so happens the guy had a IR alternator and still was running the EXT volt reg also.But didnt know this untill later on. So it helps to know where people get there shit from!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 For $53 you could upgrade to an internally regulated 90 or 120 amp alternator from a saturn.... Alternator, pully and zx inlet from pull-a-part $35 Turnbuckle from Home Depot $2 New belt from Shmucks $15 Running all your lights, heater and stereo with power to spare...priceless :fu: If your lights are killing the truck immediatley it is not a charging issue. If your charging at 14 volts and still running the battery dead then the battery is poo. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 For $53 you could upgrade to an internally regulated 90 or 120 amp alternator from a saturn.... But he'll still have a dead battery Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 That's why I edited to add the battery issue....sounds to me like that's the problem ;) I concur, do you concur? :P Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 well not to turn this into a pissing contest He said the battery will start the car the next day if its disconnected ,so I assume its good. But yes its sometimes a overlooked item as the battery cables being bad also or bad connection Quote Link to comment
V8Dat Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 I race endurance races in a Z car. We could never get the Alts. to last. What we ended up doing was mounting Chevy 1 wire. Just trim the cast iron mount at the bottom I belive 5/8'' off the front ant the Chevy bolts right on. I believe its the same as the 510 as my buddy did it to his. Not sure about the trucks but I assume L motor right? If you needed help I could help someone with this. My shops in Puyallup. PM me. We'll give it shot. Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted January 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2008 OK SOOO... i replaced the voltage regulator.. Brand new.. and it still does the same thing.. i can drive around fine without usin headlights.. but once i turn them on it starts tryin to die.. i sent anthony to autozone to have it checked again to make sure the battery i put it didnt get killed from bein abused so much.. i guess we'll see what they say... im really stumped.. i've checked the belt, the alt, the volt reg. nothins changed on it.. all the wires too "OK" .. any more ideas?? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 30, 2008 Report Share Posted January 30, 2008 do you think 15.6volts is a little on the high side?? wanting to die?or is it dying?Just shuts OFF Is this maybe cause the idle is set to low then when you put the Lights ON it wants to die.alternator loads up(gets tighter) My 521 I can tell a big differnet in idle speed when lights ON/OFF. I too adjust my mixture and idle speed periodically battery cables tite? or maybe get new ones? have alternator cked? but since its putting out 15.6v I assume its good or the new reg is not adjusting it more closely to like 13.8-14 volts. Im kinda out of answers on this one . Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted January 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2008 she idles at 1000 rpms and it Will die while driving it sounds like it does when its running out of gas but its the battery dying an it not gettin spark.. then when i try to start it back up it wont cause the batt is dead.. i will find out what autozone says again and if its not the batt this time then im gonna get new battery cables or something... im shot gunning money at this thing like a big dog.. but its all been stuff i kinda neglected to begin with.. but now i cant find the damn problem.. i really appriciate the help guys! Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 30, 2008 Report Share Posted January 30, 2008 well Im telling you from my experience and what I seen If nothing was changed/added on your rig recently differnt coil.alam added ect... ect... ect there are only the alternator,volt reg,battery,battery cables to go bad. I have seen batt cable look good and ohm ck good(only using Miliamps) But I never seen where it just DIES putting the lights ON unless the battery cable was removed. I know my rig will RUN the same then disconnect the + side battery it will run untill I put my lights ON ,it will die. Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted January 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 ok so i think drivin on a bad volt reg. an havin to jump start it to get it runnin a bunch fried the battery, it wouldnt take a full charge at autozone they reccomended a new one.. i will try the battery from my se-r and see if that helps its brand new and works good we'll see what happens.. thanks again Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted January 31, 2008 Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 Not to mention a 15.6V charge would cook the plates in the battery pretty quick (overcharged)- you can tell on most batteries that have been repeatedly overcharged because they bulge on the sides. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 31, 2008 Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 ok so i think drivin on a bad volt reg. an havin to jump start it to get it runnin a bunch fried the battery, it wouldnt take a full charge at autozone they reccomended a new one.. i will try the battery from my se-r and see if that helps its brand new and works good we'll see what happens.. thanks again As long as the correct polarity is used, jump starting a battery won't harm it. Leaving it in a discharged state when stored or left in a vehicle is bad for them. Batteries will freeze easier if discharged... and that is a killer. Quote Link to comment
lynchfourtwenty Posted January 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 i see... i will put that other battery in an see what happens... cross your fingers Quote Link to comment
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