V8Dat

Bump

The wiring is alot further along than that as well. Anyone interested in taking a look. Look me up it looks alot better in person.

Thanks man. thats the jist of it. Did you see the steering wheel and dashboard pic? thats a good one.

K, having trouble with the uploading of pics. If you search my profile and post you'll see em. In the meantime i'll keep wotking on getting up some. this (ratsun) seems like the perfect resource to finish this truck.

Yes im gonna do it, Cant seem to find time to finish this. So it must go. Started this project 20 years ago. in storage for maybe 15 yrs. Runs drives licensed and insured. Rust free V8 Datsun 620. Some specs. - 355 cid chevy sm block - m21 muncie 4 spd - 12 bolt chevy truck posi rear end 3:73 gear - Custom dash insert and guages. - frame chopped and narrowed in rear to accomodate fat tires - Full hand fabbed from scratch custom anti-reversion headers an dual exhaust - 78' monte carlo front Disc brakes. ( 4 wheel chevy bolt pattern 5 on 4 3/4) - 25+ gallon custom aluminum Fuel Cell - Wheel tubs - some body mods. Have more than what the asking price is in engine, tranny and rear end. Asking $4500. [/img]

I'd start by cleaning out the emulsion tubes. The tiniest grit in those will richen the thing up. They are the tubes just under the air correctors if you unsrew those, Just do one side at a time as to not confuse primary and the secondary. When you unscrew the air corrector jet you will see the emulsion tube underneath and you can use a small tapered punch or something like that to get a hold of it and it will lift out. When you get them out tap them upsidedown on a piece of white paper to see what comes out. Then check the float level, it sould be in the middle or just starting up the radius of the step in the float bowl. The step being the little step out casted in that the carb tp fits in that the float hangs from. Hope that helps. I wish I had some pics so I could explain better. If you want more detail IM me.

Not sure how smiley720's is but the forward links locate the rearend in the pictures of this truck. And the bagged links have shackles on them where they connect to the housing which will not affect the pinion angle. If they were directly connected they would. But they are not so it should work fine. GO for it man..

Just offering a little insight Z-Train. Check it out, we were on the subject of Bumpsteer, Your name is Z-train, I looked up in the corner and saw you owned a 240 Z. My bad, Just thought you might want to try it out on your Z. An easy mod the gets you Steered in the right direction. But if you want to be one of those guys. I can give you all of the details if you want. Just trying to be helpful.

If you are worried about bump steer on a Datsun, then check out what you got cause it probably ain't good. Datsun Z's have about 3 inches from full droop to full bump. But right on Roadracer Al. Move things around a bit you'll get it. If you move the inboard location of the lower control arm on an early Z car up 3/4" it solves the bumpsteer. If you have to start new on a truck/rack coversion then you will have to Fab mounts, just get it mocked up and check the Bsteer before you weld anything in.

Thanks guys, much appreciated.

anyone know where to find new door weatherstripping for 620 pickups. thanks.

Check with modern-motorsports.com has all the change over. Find my post on adapters for Porsche 930 cv adapters i made.

If it is definatly rpm relates not speed related than ye you are on the right track. Check the tranny mount. Th diff mounts on these things goes bad too. But not vibration related, you'll just get a big clunk in the back when you take off.

Wheels still for sale and Yes will ship

Cheaters never win. Now they are going back to review the 2001 superbowl with the Rams. Saying they filmed the walkthrough practice. Karma baby!! Maybe Belichick should watch the show My Name Is Earl!!!