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Jacob's Goon Build - Now L19 powered.


Laecaon

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More things for me to do. Basically everything I have been doing in the last few days has been without going to the store, just materials I have laying around.

 

Decided that I should actually mount another speaker for now. I have had this door card in for along time with anticipation of actually wrapping it, but I think plans have changed. Still going to wrap it, but want a new material, and want some padding on it was well. So until that point, decided I need some tunes, or rather better sounding. With the addition of this 3rd speaker I have much better sound in the car. Can feel the bass in my seat now, and it gets plenty loud. Oh and the speakers sound very nice. Well nice enough I ripped them out of my previous car.

 

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I have been up to other things, like spraying some clear coat spray paint on my pitted headlights. Cleaning up the covers on the gauges. Getting my reverse lights functioning. Hopefully I will get more done tomorrow.

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This needs fixing. It appears that the two wires were layed side by side and soldered together. This is a no no. Solder is meant to make a solid electrical connection when used on wires, nothing else. Using it to mechanically hold two wires together is bad.Wiring should be at least twisted together or crimped and then soldered. On a car's wiring it is subject to movement and vibration and the soft solder can fail giving all kinds of intermittent electrical problems.

 

Other than that it looks like a good solder joint which should flow around the individual wires and appear shiny. Dull gray is a cold solder joint from not enough heat.

 

Really like this thread. It's like being there.

 

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This needs fixing. It appears that the two wires were layed side by side and soldered together. This is a no no. Solder is meant to make a solid electrical connection when used on wires, nothing else. Using it to mechanically hold two wires together is bad.Wiring should be at least twisted together or crimped and then soldered. On a car's wiring it is subject to movement and vibration and the soft solder can fail giving all kinds of intermittent electrical problems.

 

Other than that it looks like a good solder joint which should flow around the individual wires and appear shiny. Dull gray is a cold solder joint from not enough heat.

 

Well each wire was pretinned. I always flow solder first on each individual wire, then when I bring the wires together I let the heat do the job and never touch the solder to the iron. I am pretty confident in most of my soldering skills (even soldered a radiator with a 25 watt iron :blink: still holding after 150 miles so far, I dont expect it to be permanent). That said, I tugged on this joint pretty hard to get it to separate. After I wrapped it, and then the whole harness in electrical tape. It shouldn't be getting too much abuse... Also this wire is the starter solenoid signal wire. If this fails I dont think many bad repercussions will come of it, and I will probably just use mister hammer to get it started (to get back home).

 

So what am I saying? This wire rarely has voltage in it, rarely is a complete circuit. I already have starter issues without this being one of them. So if I see this needing to be fixed, it will, but right now it is not bothering me. Maybe this will become a lessen for me...

 

 

And thanks for stopping by!

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My headlights were pitted, which made them look foggy. So I sprayed some clear coat on them quickly. I think I will try some polyurethane soon...

 

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My new battery tie down, only slightly better than the bungee cord!

 

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Got my 4th speaker in today. This one took longer as I needed to make all the holes and add the snaps to the door card. I think I am going to make a How-To on this.

 

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Did some plastic welding on my hatch hinge cover. It was cracked pretty badly. The black is ABS plastic. At least it is one piece now. It also has a temporary color change, temporary as in the color is not staying.

 

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Currently I am working on my dome light. Corrosion everywhere!

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Well here is finally a picture of the hood on the car. Cant get far enough back to take a better picture.

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Made my own dash lights, with a dimmer in a really hard to reach spot... It was too dim before. I was hoping for a bit better even lighting (I even sanded the LEDs), but I have bigger plans for my gauges, so this is good enough for now.

 

It is a bit brighter than this,but not so intense, you can actually see everything.

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More like this, but not so glaring. Oh and my clock works now!!!

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Finally before I put my LEDs away, I am working on making a under hood light.

 

This is just the soldering of the LEDs and not at all what the final thing will look like.

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I buy these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-pcs-5mm-Round-white-Superbright-LED-Light-20000MCD-/170691825464?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27be068f38

 

I dont bother with kits. They cost too much. The board is from an old project, it is from radio shack (hate that place).

 

Just gotta know 4 things:

Supply voltage, forward voltage of the LED (white tends to be about 3.2-3.8, I calculate at 3.4 to be safe), LED current (they tend to be at 20mA for these little guys, and the number of LEDs you are using.

 

Then this site: http://ledcalc.com/

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  • 2 months later...

ive enjoyed the build looked at all your photos and this cars is awesome. looking too get mine in this shape some day soon.

 

Thanks!

 

It is far from finished. I just got a job that I start tomorrow, so hopefully I will start to get some new things done.

 

I think I will make a quick list of things I need to do.

New Battery

re-ring motor.

finish interior cards

hatch seals

new suspension bushings and the sort

start collecting and saving for my motor swap (secret for now, not as stated on first page)

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Can i make the first guess???

 

That would hardly be a guess.

 

 

On a side note, got a new battery. Figured out why my old one was giving me issues. Its 11 years old. Guy at Napa was quite shocked. If you care to know it was a 72 month Exide battery from Shucks.

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  • 1 month later...

So my car has been over the last few months gotten worse and worse with burning oil. At idle it was making clouds. Going into the secondaries made the car behind me change lanes. Sadly this was not a diesel.

 

So time for action! Time to make a L18.5!

 

The plan:

L18 block/crank/rods

L28 Flat Tops 40 over.

This combo will create a 2mm overbore on my block.

This will also increase displacement from 1.77L to 1.85L

Finally I should achieve about a 9.3:1 CR with a open head!

 

Pics from today.

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