datsunfreak Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 Time to do some reading up on (short) transmission options There are basically 3 options there. '80-81 510 (shortest, but won't take a lot of abuse) '80-83 200SX (middle length, but tougher) '89-93 240SX (longest and toughest) Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 There are basically 3 options there. '80-81 510 (shortest, but won't take a lot of abuse) '80-83 200SX (middle length, but tougher) '89-93 240SX (longest and toughest) I was thinking more like mid 80's 720 transmission. Should be ~25 in. As I already have a 63a transmission (~26 in) I'm hoping this is close enough to not need the driveshaft shortened/modified. The driveshaft I'm running is a rebuilt unit for an A-series automatic (the right size for L-series output splines) with zerked replaceable U-joints and I would like not to have to mess with it. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 The shortest transmissions are 26.3", like the 1977-1979 S10 5-speed and the 720 short-tailshaft units. 1 Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 The shortest transmissions are 26.3", like the 1977-1979 S10 5-speed and the 720 short-tailshaft units. The S10 makes sense, good to know the exact dimensions. I figure the 720 is probably the best donor at this point due to availability. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted January 6, 2013 Report Share Posted January 6, 2013 S10 bellhousing won't work well though. It's clocked for an L-series. The 80-81 510 is the exact same gearbox as the S10, but clocked correctly for the KA. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted January 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2013 S10 bellhousing won't work well though. It's clocked for an L-series. The 80-81 510 is the exact same gearbox as the S10, but clocked correctly for the KA. :thumbup: So I found a 81' 510 complete in the local picknpull, but unfortunately it is a 4 speed :sleep: Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted January 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2013 (edited) I'm probably going to put a parts wanted post up in the for-sale thread soon. Any suggestions or shortcuts are welcome. I'm doing this as somewhat of a budget build. I have a good amount of time to do this, but obviously I would love to have this up and running reliably for Canby. So the idea is 1) initially gather parts, 2) swap engine, 3) get it running, 4) test drive and get the bugs ironed out, 5) refine the issues with the swap as I have time. Currently I'm looking at keeping the EFI stuff and getting that to work, since this gives me the best MPG/ease of use and should be the simplest. I'm also doing research on which pieces will make the easiest/cheapest swap for the other parts. I figure if I can find a stumpy 5spd I don't need to shorten the driveshaft, or starting cutting up the interior of the car for a new shift location. Also I will remove the sway bar for now, and either flip the B210 spare crossmember I have and make new engine mounts to use 620 rubber isolators, or get a 510 crossmember and LCA's and do the swap on that. Once it runs and I can iron out the bugs, I will either see if another sway bar will fit, or make a custom oil pan and swap back to a stock 510 crossmember and put the B210 swaybar back on. It looks like I will minimally need: Electrical ECU #11 or #14 Picked up a #14 Engine wiring harness (240sx 89-90) (got wiring harness) Ignition coil (stock 240sx 89-90) (got coil) Mechanical Stumpy 5spd transmission, if I absolutely can't find one I may go 4spd just to get it up and running (probably out of a 720) New clutch kit -(NAPA kit probably) Flywheel bolts 620 engine mounts 69-73 510 crossmember and LCA's (this is a maybe) Fab stuff Flip Crossmember and/or engine mounts if I use the B210 crossmember Transmission mount (maybe) Block off unneeded hole(s) in the exhaust header Accompanying changes New radiator (the old one might work- from an AT 210 with A/C but quite old)- not sure which one would work best still looking for a good suggestion here. Electric fan for the radiator and temp switch control- maybe new on this, PNP wants ~$40 for this. New exhaust setup for 2.5" (I have a 2" for now and I might just make that work until I can put together a new one) - may farm this out to a muffler shop Inline electric fuel pump, and surge tank or new fuel line and return line- still need to work out how I'm going to do this. Misc. Exhaust manifold gasket Intake manifold gasket O2 sensor (the old one has the wires broken off, I might be able to salvage it) Other gaskets? Various wire and connectors, shrinkwrap Relays (I may have these) Radiator hoses Oil filter Fluids Spark plugs (will change as a precaution) Other little bits and pieces Clean up differential and paint also likely change the seals/bearings/shoes. Maybe do: Might pull the timing cover and take a look at the timing chain and tensioner while it is on the engine stand. I will also put together a steering box brace when the engine is out of the way. Edited January 7, 2013 by Dguy210 Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted January 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 Drove down to the Stockton PNP from Sac today. They had a reasonably unmolested 1990 240sx for me to grab parts off of. They also had one other manual missing the engine and an automatic missing the head. Ended up pulling a wiring harness, ignition coil, and valve cover. I'm going to strip this spare valve cover and repaint as I have time, I just need to come up with a color/theme. Or maybe just polish the damn thing, I haven't decided yet. Also started on the cleanup of the block. Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted January 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2013 Still cleaning this up, haven't decided what color to paint it yet. Also picked this up. A little bit more beat up than I like, and it already had PnP writing on it in the truck ('84 720 KC), but it was the only one I could find. Minimal input or output shaft play, oil was dark with very minor fillings on the drain plug magnet. No big pieces or anything of consequence though, and I could shift it into all the gears. If it ends up no good I'll probably just end up rebuilding it. I'll probably keep a lookout for another one just in case. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted January 19, 2013 Report Share Posted January 19, 2013 I like where this is going. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted January 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 You can't tell from the pic but the letters are color matched green to the car, and yes elephant oil cap, which just barely fits. Also swaybar. I will need to add a small plate to extend the bushing mount point to the frame rail, but other than that it looks like it should clear the front sump nicely. Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted February 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 (edited) Radiator came today. Still need to pickup the flywheel, flywheel bolts, and clutch kit. I've got the crossmember about half done (center taken care of) but haven't worked out the motor mount height yet. 19*22 dual core aluminum radiator. Inlets could be better positioned but the price was right and this should cool much better than a VR6 rad. Turns out it doesn't fit. Bummer Edited August 18, 2013 by Dguy210 Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted February 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 Been working on this slow an steady. Also cleaned up the intake manifolds of unnecessary crap and replaced the hoses. The bottom coolant hose was packed with straw? WTF? :confused: Still a couple of spots on the block that are hard to get all of the grease off of, but much better than before. Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted February 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 This worries me a bit though, minor dent in the oil pan, I'm probably going to need to pull the pan and make sure it is not hitting the oil pickup. Unless I get lucky and can pop it out via the plug hole, or get a flashlight angled to take a look. Anyone know if this is a big enough dent to be a problem? Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 I would say yes, it's dented too much. The good news is where the pickup tube sits is very accessible. Just pull it and hammer it out a bit and you will be good to go. Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted February 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 I would say yes, it's dented too much. The good news is where the pickup tube sits is very accessible. Just pull it and hammer it out a bit and you will be good to go. That's what I figured, ehh at least I'll get a good look at the innards while I have the pan off. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 This thread is awesome. Exactly what I was looking for as far as ideas for the 4 door B210. I hope to pick one up next weekend. Now to see if I can "finish" the 620 enough to work on a B210 in one weekend :P Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted February 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 This thread is awesome. Exactly what I was looking for as far as ideas for the 4 door B210. I hope to pick one up next weekend. Now to see if I can "finish" the 620 enough to work on a B210 in one weekend :P What year? Anything other than a 74 should be a bit easier for the fuel setup, as the 74 does not have a fuel return line. I think I might be able to "creatively" reuse the vent line, if not I do have another solution. Quote Link to comment
Kirden Posted February 15, 2013 Report Share Posted February 15, 2013 It is a 76. It is also factory green :) Quote Link to comment
king bee66 Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 whats the sway bar from? Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted March 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 whats the sway bar from?1200Bit smaller than b210 but fits and front sump. They had a 74 b210 and a 1200 at the pnp at the same time on 1/2 price weekend. Quote Link to comment
vw40life Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 Have u been to stockton pnp lately i need a 80s crrossmember since since i have bought a 1982 210 and am trying to do a ka24e swap also on the car thank u Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted March 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 Have u been to stockton pnp lately i need a 80s crrossmember since since i have bought a 1982 210 and am trying to do a ka24e swap also on the car thank u I rarely go to the Stockton pnp because it's about an hour south of where I live and there are about 5 others closer. Actually, I rarely get out to the pnp lately due to wife, kid, job stuff anyways. Hell last 1/2 day I was pulling parts with them in the car waiting, which seriously did not earn me any brownie points. I assume you mean you're looking for a late 510 (hl510) or a 200sx crossmember? Check the inventory page to get an idea if they have the car you're looking for. Quote Link to comment
Dguy210 Posted March 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 (edited) Pulled the oil pan to fix the dent. As soon as I flipped the engine I heard it, pulled the pan to verify. Plastic guide bits everywhere in the oil pan. I'm going to have to pull the timing cover and get a timing chain set it looks like :mad: I wonder if I should replace the oil pump while I'm at it? I don't have an impact gun or the correct sized socket so getting the crank pulley off is going to be a real bitch. Edit: I bet autozone rents a tool for this. Well..fuck. You can just see the bits of the plastic guide on the filter. Pickup tube filter is kinda mangled also. The rest of the guide and some other debris. Not sure what the stringy stuff is, but some of the crap was insect parts :confused: no metal bits though. The screen has also separated from the base here (bottom), although I pulled the tube and the insides where clean so it seems to have done its job. I'm going to need to replace the pickup though. Edited March 18, 2013 by Dguy210 Quote Link to comment
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