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Story time: My 1974 B210 4dr. It ain't easy being green.


Dguy210

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Take a good hard look at the back side of the timing cover while it's off. When the chain gets this loose, the chain likes to eat a hole through the cover into the water jacket that is right behind the water pump. 

Yeah, I know, I'm just kinda bummed about this. I haven't pulled one of these apart before, so I'm not really stoked on doing it. I've got a timing chain and kit on the way. I was hoping there would be minimal fuckery and extra cost involved in getting this running but now I'm half tempted to order a rebuild kit and just pull the whole damn thing apart.

 

I'm kinda stressed right now anyways as my job position/funding ends this Sept so I've been hustling to make sure I have another position/funding lined up. So working 6+ days a week plus a 2 hour commute, plus a couple hours of computer work at night, plus small children means my free time this year has also just been almost nil. I'm lucky to get an hour or two a week to work on anything. I really wanted to try and get this up and running for the drive to Canby but I'm just not seeing that working out now.

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you were probably better off replacing the timing chain, even if this hadnt happened

You're right, I had been considering it anyways, I just didn't want to do it :sneaky:  Luckily I have a very stubborn personality (ask my wife) so instead of giving up when stuff like this happens I usually just double down to get it done. Timing chain will be in Thursday, and it will be changed and back together by the weekend.

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Pulled the timing cover tonight. Used some bolts and chain to hold the crank. Worked pretty well once I got the slack out.

1EA442D7-E869-4606-9E38-03548A6628C9-106

 

The plastic chain guide is just gone. The slack side guide has some cracks.

DB965EC6-5B9A-4ACC-8FD6-5E3C948D082C-106

 

Good news is the rear of the timing cover looks ok.

9604034F-0116-4702-97F0-C97B19D43579-106

 

But with the chain this slack does this look right for the red link with respect to the timing mark on the cam gear? Is this supposed to be directly above it or did it skip a tooth?

F173F8E6-DF03-486A-BE2C-441742C8D235-106

 

Also started cleaning up the diff and the trans.

46429C86-5B67-48DD-A0E6-EF71AE925B4A-106

 

I've got a fun run tomorrow so this will probably get changed and buttoned up Sunday.

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I keep finding all kinds of fun things.

 

Pulled the cam gear off, seriously worn.

4D090C69-B86C-46A4-B38D-A4A8E8C7F2C4-125

9BDB68F6-E62C-4777-8BCE-F855D2F478C8-125

75DA51B3-C308-4A17-B97D-F5B316E5B2CC-125

 

Also started taking a closer look at the block and cover, all kinds of neat wear from the chain.

FDE45FFC-90F1-4137-9C3A-15C2A0CFE10D-125

914A3166-D531-4C19-BAF7-5B2409AAE691-125

B90D02E5-AAFF-44EB-82BE-61CC92F860BC-125

 

But looking a little closer at the back of the timing cover I saw this weld just to the left of the wear mark on the back of the water pump. WTF?

50810BFD-D0AF-4D9E-AAED-00371FE5735A-125

 

Anyways I said fuck it and started putting it back together. Just waiting for the Permatex to setup enough to do the final tightening. The red says retorque so I'll remember to hit it before I button it up.

7CC78DC4-EA1B-4D03-B445-6BD972CB2171-125

591B6FD8-344E-417F-9818-20B59C2BB68F-125

 

I'll worry about the oil pump and distributor tomorrow. Doesn't help the torque wrench I rented was also no good. It was the only tool of the ones I rented that looked used though. I'll track down one from a different store.

 

I also had to do some yardwork earlier today, came up with this but I need to modify the mount a bit.

31EAD57B-D941-40C7-9A8A-C026672A99C2-125

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Test fit of the valve cover, cam and crank bolts are installed and torqued. I still need to test the oil pump. Not really looking forward to getting the distributor driveshaft installed correctly, seems way too easy to get it off a tooth and have the timing wrong.
C305FD22-4629-401F-9B49-5A867E4285AF-125
 
Also I realized I screwed up and way overtightened the cam bolt while using that broken torque wrench. Torqued down the crank bolt today with a good torque wrench and went after the cam bolt.  Looks like it was supposed to be ~100ft-lbs and I probably put it closer to 200ft-lbs.  Obviously this is way too tight, but does anyone know if this is past the torque limit for the bolt enough to cause problems? I'll pull and replace the bolt if absolutely necessary but I don't want to try to source one if it will be fine.
 
Also picked up this Luk clutch (225mm), might be using this with a 240z flywheel, haven't decided yet. Also I still need to source those stupid flywheel bolts.
C2718B14-26F7-4E61-B4E4-FC420BC699F5-125

To do still:

Fix or replace oil pickup tube.

Pound out oilpan dent.

install oil pump and distributor.

Pull off engine stand and install flywheel and clutch.

Install on other engine stand as this one is borrowed.

Finish crossmember motor mount mounting points. I already have the center section flipped, now I just need to cut and modify the towers for the motor mounts to sit on. Still need to figure out the correct tower angle.

 

Non engine stuff:

Finish cleaning up transmission. Remove old slave cylinder.

Figure out which throwout bearing collar I need to use and replace the bearing.

Finish cleaning up diff.

Change brakes on diff.

 

Build relay box.

Wire in fuel pumps and route necessary hoses.

Tearapart and redo engine harness as necessary.

Figure out how to mount new radiator, I can do this now and use it with the A14 for the time being.

....and a bunch of other stuff I'm forgetting.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well crap, yet another thing.

 

I had ordered two duckbill spoilers from Black Forest Industries back at the end of December, as they were discounted that way for shipping. Box arrived sometime in January and I set it down with the other parts without opening it. So I opened it yesterday with the intent of installing it before the meet.  Well, they only shipped me one spoiler (they come in two pieces).  I've emailed them and I'm awaiting a reply.

B04EBB12-B571-43D5-9CA7-C0B1138C671B-196

AE149857-8396-4CE9-A48B-53579B662129-190

 

Aside from that and a little flashing cleanup on the parts, looks like it will work well. I will probably get it installed this weekend.

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So received an email followup stating that they (Black Forest Industries) apologize that I didn't get all of my order but that they only allow 30days for this type of stuff and it has already been 90+ days. 

 

What I like is they can acknowledge that it is incorrect but because of the time involved can't do anything about it.  I guess I was stupid not to check it immediately when it came in, in which case I would then have had to still do the same damn thing I'm doing now just with a different outcome???

 

Kinda frustrating and I realize I really have no recourse here, I just wish they had done their job right the first time. I can understand their point of view on this, I just hoped they would have put a good faith effort into fixing their mistake. Maybe I'm being unreasonable here?

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So looks like Pete at Black Forest Industries has ignored my followup email completely. Do you think this warrants a posting in the bad sellers list? Other factors aside, I have a pretty useless response from them and I didn't get what I ordered due to their mistake. :confused: I get the feeling that since it is past the time to do a chargeback they just don't care.

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I got a chin i can sell. got from Same spot. Did not fit my truck.

I have one. The problem was I ordered 2 and they only sent one. I ordered 2 because it was something like $70 for one shipped or 2 for $105.

 

BTW Pete at Black Forest Industries has also ignored my second followup email. I just need to know if I'm being reasonable in pursuing this farther due to the time delay involved. However, I figure I did not get what I paid for due to their error.

 

I really should probably let it drop and call it a lesson learned but this type of stuff really drives me crazy, like to the point of obsession :frantics:

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Update on the KA:

 

New flywheel bolts and oil pickup tube o-ring are on there way! I can finally button this thing up. Got the KA flywheel from 510keeper at the Friday pizza meet. I've got it cleaned up and just need to scuff the metal surface for the clutch.  I also pounded out the dent in the oil pan. So as soon as I get that stupid o-ring I can put the oil pan back on, pull it off the engine stand and attach the flywheel and clutch. I still need to finish changing the brakes and cleaning up the diff and transmission.  I'm going to bolt the engine and trans together outside the car as I have to change the crossmember anyways. I ended up reusing the oil pump as the piston still seemed to slide freely and the gears turned nicely. I'll probably try to pickup a Miller M152 off a 280zxt manual when I have a chance.

 

I've already got the crossmember modded to clear the oil pan, I just need to modify the engine mount towers. If anyone has the angle and height of the 510 or equivalent towers that would make it a lot easier. Otherwise I'm going to make the angle of the lower mount to rubber mount adjustable (bolt and square tubing), make an educated guess for height and clearances and just bolt it on and weld the lower mount solid after bolting it on and getting it adjusted. Sorry for the crappy phone pic, I'll post better when it is all finished, the paint is temporary just to prevent flash rusting.

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Maybe the chain already busted through once?  :confused:

 

It's usually right behind the water pump where they rub through though...

That was my thought also. The chain was a Japanese chain but the silver links were marked with red paint, and I got the general feeling the engine had been worked on before. The head is amazingly clean for instance and the sealants used to attach stuff appear aftermarket. I poked aflashlight in with the spark plugs removed to take a look at the pistons and what I could see of the cylinder wall, everything looked decent.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have one. The problem was I ordered 2 and they only sent one. I ordered 2 because it was something like $70 for one shipped or 2 for $105.

 

BTW Pete at Black Forest Industries has also ignored my second followup email. I just need to know if I'm being reasonable in pursuing this farther due to the time delay involved. However, I figure I did not get what I paid for due to their error.

 

I really should probably let it drop and call it a lesson learned but this type of stuff really drives me crazy, like to the point of obsession :frantics:

Well got it fitted last week just been meaning to upload a pic. The whole problem with not getting what I paid for from BFI has kind of pissed me off about the whole damn thing though. I haven't gotten around to it yet but I need to file with the BBB (useless though) and maybe post a thread on this. All my emails after the first one have been completely ignored. Since they won't do the right thing and send me what I paid for, at this point I'm going to just see how much business I can cost them.

 

Oil pickup gasket is installed, and the flywheel bolts came in. I basically just need a free weekend (yeah right!) and I'll pull it off the engine stand and get everything buttoned up. Putting the valve cover back on though I found some of the holes were stripped, I'll need to pickup a helicoil kit (6 x 1.0 I believe) and redo the threads to be satisfied. This is not getting swapped before Canby :sleep:  I am going to see if I can get the A/C setup put in though as it has been warming up lately and that section through Redding on the way back is just balls hot.

 

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However, I don't really notice any difference in driving with it on versus before. I'm putting this into the category of cosmetic upgrade only.

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The KA24e is pretty much put back together at this point, I just need to pull it off the engine stand to put the flywheel/clutch on. I'm still figuring out the mounts for the crossmember, and how low it needs to sit.  No rush on this now as Canby is too close.

 

So I'm doing this instead. A/C bits I've been collecting for a while, moslty just need a drier, a couple of hoses, and the fluids and some free time to hook it up.


Parts laid out with regard to general placement to see what I was missing. I still need to flush the lines here.  Evaporator is out of a 620 along with the controls. Under dash parts are dealer B210, condenser, hoses and compressor are out of a 210.  The cardboard box on the left has some other misc. B210 A/C parts that use the old style hose barb connectors. Everything shown here is #8 or #10 flare and I've got some o-ring to flare adapters on the way.

 

08F38407-AA96-4C93-8209-1A5A01473CFE-368

 

This is not completely accurate but I'm basing the setup off this schematic ('78 B210). I would love to get the late B210 underdash unit, but I just never see them.

61C87195-86C4-4F2A-8FFB-50BA70311CDF-368

 

I'm probably going to skip the using a bulkhead connector exactly though.

 

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  • 4 months later...

"Wife Problem"? My wife used to complain about my 1967 Datsun RL411 until I pointed out that the 411 was the car I used to go get parts to fix her "good" cars! She now admits that I may be right when I tease her that I have "The Cutest Car in the World". Her Japanese friends now agree that my 411 is "Kawai" and so do my nieces and nephews in Tokyo.

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"Wife Problem"? My wife used to complain about my 1967 Datsun RL411 until I pointed out that the 411 was the car I used to go get parts to fix her "good" cars! She now admits that I may be right when I tease her that I have "The Cutest Car in the World". Her Japanese friends now agree that my 411 is "Kawai" and so do my nieces and nephews in Tokyo.

??Wife problem?? Not really. She is not really into Datsun's but she is just not a car person in general. She pretty much has no problem with how much time I spend on the cars as long as I'm home, she only gets irritated when I'm gone all day or several days and she has to take care of the kid(s) by herself. Also she thinks the 1200 is much cuter than the B210 so her taste is ok...well except for the part where she married my troll-like ass :rofl: The only car she doesn't like is my old Benz because of the old oil leak.

 

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  • 2 months later...

Added in a radiator overflow bottle from a 210.
 
Ground the rust and old paint off the bracket, sorry no before pic, and painted it.
D8A19CF3-94DA-4D71-9964-38952B9FA533-719
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Also cleaned up the bottle with some WD-40 a rag and some scrub brushes.
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And installed:
075874a3-b402-4c70-85d4-43497f49e7db_zps

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  • 2 months later...

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