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Goon down!!! SOS


Skib

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I tryed this once before and some dielectric grease when I put it back together and it still didnt help :(

 

Dielectric grease is an insulator. You want the connections clean and dry.... or did I misunderstand you?

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Putting dielectric grease won't solve a bad connection, but it is used to keep working connections from getting corroded. The metal-to-metal contact still has to be good and non-corroded FIRST to work.

 

 

ya I cleaned and sanded them first and put it on to keep it from corroding

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nothing wrong with that wiring.Eric had no proplems with this car.

Just charge up that battery. Then run the car in the driveway and measure the voltage. I bet its a bad alternator and you were running the battery down.

 

As for the tail lights that could be be a separate issue. If NO instrument lights you might not have tail lights as this happen to me w/my 521(cop!!!!). Ck fuse or better replace wiggle connector/clean connector

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nothing wrong with that wiring.Eric had no proplems with this car.

Just charge up that battery. Then run the car in the driveway and measure the voltage. I bet its a bad alternator and you were running the battery down.

 

As for the tail lights that could be be a separate issue. If NO instrument lights you might not have tail lights as this happen to me w/my 521(cop!!!!). Ck fuse or better replace wiggle connector/clean connector

 

 

i started having multiple electrical problems with the goon after a while, iv had to replace a few ends because of corrosion ect and other things.

(have lost headlights, all lights, turn signals, gas gauge, ect at different times.

 

its just happening to happen while I own it instead of Eric lol deff not saying I got sold a car with shitty wiring or anything, hes a stand up dude by far.

just par for the course of 40yr old wires

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wagons also back home in the garage cooling off so I can start tearing into it.

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nothing wrong with that wiring.Eric had no proplems with this car.

Just charge up that battery. Then run the car in the driveway and measure the voltage. I bet its a bad alternator and you were running the battery down.

 

The wiring was all there and in pretty good shape... other than some corroded connectors and a bad fusible link. Thats one of the reasons I thought it worthy of being saved from the big scrap heap in the sky.

 

 

 

its just happening to happen while I own it instead of Eric lol deff not saying I got sold a car with shitty wiring or anything, hes a stand up dude by far.

just par for the course of 40yr old wires

 

 

 

Thanks dude. I'm sure its somthing simple, you'll figure it out. Just think how good your trouble shooting skills are getting! :P

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The wiring was all there and in pretty good shape... other than some corroded connectors and a bad fusible link. Thats one of the reasons I thought it worthy of being saved from the big scrap heap in the sky.

 

 

it was worthy indeed :lol: aside from the electric gremlins Iv had its runs like a top and the heaters HOT

 

 

 

Thanks dude. I'm sure its somthing simple, you'll figure it out. Just think how good your trouble shooting skills are getting! :P

 

 

:rofl: I trust you for sure man, I wasnt even gonna test drive it :P I was just gonna pick it up and make the 2 hour drive home hahaha

 

its just the usual business of owning a car thats got 40yr old wiring

 

 

 

 

lol if it was Z id know exactly where to go but everything but the engine on a 510 is forein territory for me :D Im getting more fluent in Dime tho lol

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Clean connectors.

just clean . its a mantinace issue.

 

my 510 lights went bad right in front of Eric when he was over here once.my 510 made me look bad!!!!!!!!

My 521 temp/gas gauge srews up all the time.

 

Icehouse says on the 510wagoons there is a C clip splice by the fuse box wire harness that get corroded. where one might not get tail light. If neded more info PM him

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skibby you still running external regulated? Only takes 4 spade connectors and 2 wires to make it internal. I can take a pic if needed.

That is he has a IR alternator standing by.

 

C splice is a cheap ass way to take a wire and short to another.another way to explain it is take a pc of copper shape it like a C and then get soem pliers and squeeze the shit to gether and thats your crimp

 

 

Like a stock 510 has a ballast resisitor, Hot start wire set up. If you unwrap the tape far enough. you will see the blk/blu wire shorted to the blk/grn. what they do is just but maybe 1/8 of the insulation only out then get C copper crimp . Its just enough to slip wire the 2 wires and you crimp it together thus your short. Then they just tape over it.

 

most time in wagoon if the tail light is out you can just move the harness arouns and your see the lights work.

I learned this from Jeff. never seen this my self as I never owned a wagon

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C splice is a cheap ass way to take a wire and short to another.another way to explain it is take a pc of copper shape it like a C and then get soem pliers and squeeze the shit to gether and thats your crimp

 

 

 

ok those, Iv never called em that :P

 

 

theres a few of them that are corroded under the wrap :(

 

this ones the power for the alt/fusable link and is obviously not helping lol

 

071110_1512.jpg

 

one was also the ground to the old external regulator thats also running to one of the ones on the alt

 

 

 

Iv got the whole things unwrapped and going threw it it cleaning, fixing, and getting rid of the stuff I dont need anymore.

 

 

long as my alts still good this should have my electrical running proper again

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well went threw the harness and got everything cleaned, cleaned/fixed the fuse box and all the connections I could find.

 

also got rid of all the unnecessary wiring for the duel points stuff

 

 

 

 

and its all works again, lights, gas gauge, turn signals, and even the parking brake light that never worked haha

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