izzo Posted May 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2010 got my 720 to my sisters place in rainier, thankfully. I really didn't want to let it go, had a buyer all ready for it and i backed out lol... Anyways. Got a good alternator in there (outta my truck). Got it secured. Pulled it onto the driveway, cleaned the inside up a bit. Needs a vacuum still. but everythings wiped down. Sprayed down the engine with some engine cleaner, sprayed it off. A little better, still needs it a lot better. Need to install an oil pump! Light keeps coming on. Figure ill replace it, along with the valve cover gasket. its leakin. Maybe losing pressure because of it?? Anyone know about that? Still need tires for the front at least. Quote Link to comment
playsnmud Posted May 9, 2010 Report Share Posted May 9, 2010 had a buyer all ready for it and i backed out lol... I have done this to many times Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2010 well, i have owned probably 30-40 cars in the last 10 years. This one i spent the most time on learning, working on. And this has been the most reliable rig I've ever owned. Longest rig I've owned also. Hard lettin it go lol Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2010 Shit.............. Passenger door wont open, PO said she slammed it one day any it never opened again. Took the door panel off today and started snooping around. Looks like the popper or w/e was loose and is jammed in there. I cant get the fucking thing off, been struggling with it for an hour now. Gave up and put the door panel back on. Might be easier to just find another goon door and cut this one up/off. Hate to do it, door is super straight and 0 rust :( Oil light still on, got a spare oil pump i think. Gonna do that after i get back from laser quick. Passenger side headlights work, driver side one comes on but dim. other day it was just one light out. They are ran off a relay, ill start by checking the grounds. Going to DMV wednesday and getting it some new plates/tabs. Be the daily driver then. Might take a look at the wipers today.. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2010 no pics i fail :) Got a different oil pump in, light still stays on for 20-30 seconds then pops off. Maybe its the sensor? eh. happy it goes off now at least. Motor is kinda tired. L20 coming up soon :D Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 11, 2010 Report Share Posted May 11, 2010 If you're saying it take 20-30 sec after you start it for the oil light to go off....that seems a bit long, but it will take a bit of time for the pressure to build up. The pressure is created by how hard the pump has to push the oil through the small holes and into the bearings. Once the oil is squeezed out past the bearing surfaces, it no longer has any pressure.....so the valve cover leak will not affect oil pressure. As for the door....I'm sure there's another option besides cutting a straight door. If you have to, cut the inside of the door, behind the door panel. Then you can weld it back together and it won't show. If some linkage is jammed, cut the linkage or the latch....both of which are easily replaceable once the door is open. Don't cut the door skin!!! :) It's the speed of going slow. It will be much faster in the long run to take your time and figure out the latch than it will be to deal with cutting the door up. Anyway....just my 2cents :) Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2010 If you're saying it take 20-30 sec after you start it for the oil light to go off....that seems a bit long, but it will take a bit of time for the pressure to build up. The pressure is created by how hard the pump has to push the oil through the small holes and into the bearings. Once the oil is squeezed out past the bearing surfaces, it no longer has any pressure.....so the valve cover leak will not affect oil pressure. As for the door....I'm sure there's another option besides cutting a straight door. If you have to, cut the inside of the door, behind the door panel. Then you can weld it back together and it won't show. If some linkage is jammed, cut the linkage or the latch....both of which are easily replaceable once the door is open. Don't cut the door skin!!! :) It's the speed of going slow. It will be much faster in the long run to take your time and figure out the latch than it will be to deal with cutting the door up. Anyway....just my 2cents :) I see what you are saying. I replaced the oil pump and the light still sticks on, it goes off on its own sometimes, sometimes itll go off it i tap the dash. Ill have to get a video or something of the door. I can get it open just a little, and move the rubber over just enough to see one screw and a little bit of the mechanism. The door will move back and forth, up down, but that mechanism is like stuck in place, it will stay in that one spot and just not move while the door is moving around. Maybe it is something bent and its just not releasing?? You know when you dont close your door all the way, its kind of latched but not fully? thats as much as i can get it open. When i push it shut i can hear the latch click. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 11, 2010 Report Share Posted May 11, 2010 for the door can you remove the kick panel and try remove those bolts that hold the door hinge on. Youll need 2 people. remove door panel inside incase you need to jam the mechism open. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2010 for the door can you remove the kick panel and try remove those bolts that hold the door hinge on. Youll need 2 people. remove door panel inside incase you need to jam the mechism open. Got the door panel off. Thats how i noticed the jam mechanism was well, jammed :rofl: Door moves around but that shit is stuck in place. Itll have to wait i suppose if it takes 2 people lol. Maybe i can get the wife to give a hand :D Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted May 11, 2010 Report Share Posted May 11, 2010 Got the door panel off. Thats how i noticed the jam mechanism was well, jammed :rofl: Door moves around but that shit is stuck in place. Itll have to wait i suppose if it takes 2 people lol. Iv got some heavy combat boots :cool: Ill just Chuck Norris kick it open from the inside :lol: Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2010 Iv got some heavy combat boots :cool: Ill just Chuck Norris kick it open from the inside :lol: Come on over lol... Got my wipers fixed and taken care of. Only thing left is the oil light and door. Getting plates and tabs tomorrow... she's a runner Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted May 12, 2010 Report Share Posted May 12, 2010 Got my wipers fixed and taken care of. Only thing left is the oil light and door. Getting plates and tabs tomorrow... she's a runner sweet! Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2010 Cowl off, all the wiper linkage out. There were a few problems.... First, the little C clip that goes on the linkage that goes from the motor to the actual linkage fell off :\ Was sitting there jammed against the firewall. Figured what the hell, might as well take it all out and clean/grease it up. Only broke 2 bolts on the linkage where it attaches to the cowling. Ill tap those out later and just use little bolts. For now its good enough to hold. Everything out, greased every joint thoroughly! Went to the hardware store got some longer bolts with nuts as spacers for the wiper since its a mazda wiper motor. Picked up an E clip also. Got everything installed, works like a charm. No squeeks, tweaks or anything. Am pretty happy i have wipers :D I did notice tho one of the wiper arms or something is getting stripped on the splines. Figure that one out later, this should get me thru the summer at least. (hard telling with the weather on the coast :rofl: ) Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 12, 2010 Report Share Posted May 12, 2010 YOu must have a Truck fuel pump?inlet out let facing in the wrong location. Kinda funky way to route the fuel line over the valve cover. if you get a 510 model pump the inlet/outlets are in the correct spots. PS do not kick 510 doors. the bolts that hold the locking mech will screw up. I know. My doors iced up one winter and I kicked the shit out of them on another beater510 I owned. was screwed after that. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 YOu must have a Truck fuel pump?inlet out let facing in the wrong location. Kinda funky way to route the fuel line over the valve cover. if you get a 510 model pump the inlet/outlets are in the correct spots. PS do not kick 510 doors. the bolts that hold the locking mech will screw up. I know. My doors iced up one winter and I kicked the shit out of them on another beater510 I owned. was screwed after that. Hmm.. Sawzall to the door should do the trick :rofl: And no, electronic fuel pump. Its rigged up weird i need a cheapo regulator. Got plates and tabs on it today, daily driver now. Got the second bottom bolt in the alternator so no more worries there. Cant find a good spot to mount my volt meter. Think ill wait and just make something for the center console area. Don't really want to make holes in the dash. Figured out what the problems with my headlights are. Passenger side works great, driver side high beam doesnt work at all. Low beam comes on but barely. High beam has NO ground. Will run a ground wire tomorrow, I tested it with just running a ground wire to it and its bright. As for the low beam. The power wire somewhere is losing power. Not sure where but have it narrowed down to a small area. Think i will just run a new connection and save some hassle. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 Sweeeeeeeeeeeeet! Working passenger door. Today the wife and i drove around to the beach, and some other places. She played daisy duke :rofl: Got home and decided it should be fixed, so i cleaned up the back of my car and got it organized. Then set out to fix the door at no stop :D Got the sob open! Think i know why it wasn't working for shit :rolleyes: Quick trip to the hardware store, and all set :D And tested to see if it opened again. Success! Opens from inside and outside and locks as it should. List of shit to do still. Need to wire in a ground wire for high beam driver side, new power wire from relay for low beam. Install inner/outter tie rods that i purchased New ball joints New tires Getting alignment. In the mean time, or after, install my L20 out of my truck and put L16 back in the truck :D Maybe throw on a single side draft. Might just stick with 32/36 dunno yet. Quote Link to comment
nismo dr Posted May 13, 2010 Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 Good deal, way better than trying to cut it open. :D Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 Good deal, way better than trying to cut it open. :D I was gonna get that fucker open one way or another :D Wouldn't cut it without having a replacement. Thing is, i didnt want to bed the pillar trying to get it off. Rather have cut a door and just put another on. It would have been a very last resort. but shit ya.... cant wait to get the steering and suspension shit here. Wanna do it NOW!!1! Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 15, 2010 Report Share Posted May 15, 2010 Need to wire in a ground wire for high beam driver side. The turn signal switch area there should be a wire that is the ground wire. this comes from the steering wheel. There is a copper arm that will contack a copper pad that is a circle around the steering wheel. This is the ground that trips the relay to add another ground for the high beams. But if the passenger side HIghbeams works then its not this what I just mentioned. try unplugging the conter and clean contacks and plug it back in.Unless wire is cut its just a old connction. Sometimes I wiggle the fuses for the left right side. The photo of the door with the 3 screw holes if waht fucked up on my car when I kicked the shit out of it. It oblonged the holes and whould never shut right again. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2010 Need to wire in a ground wire for high beam driver side. The turn signal switch area there should be a wire that is the ground wire. this comes from the steering wheel. There is a copper arm that will contack a copper pad that is a circle around the steering wheel. This is the ground that trips the relay to add another ground for the high beams. But if the passenger side HIghbeams works then its not this what I just mentioned. try unplugging the conter and clean contacks and plug it back in.Unless wire is cut its just a old connction. Sometimes I wiggle the fuses for the left right side. The photo of the door with the 3 screw holes if waht fucked up on my car when I kicked the shit out of it. It oblonged the holes and whould never shut right again. Got the ground fixed and working ok, but the driver side low beam is still kinda fucked. I ran a power tester and theres power going there but the light isnt very bright. If i run a wire from positive battery to there it lights up bright like it should. The headlights are ran off an aftermarket relay. Works well, but. From the passenger headlight there is a wire spliced in that looks like it goes over to the driver headlight. I think its losing power in there. I will try a new wire and if that doesn't solve it i will do some further investigating. Im betting on a new wire doing the trick tho. Quote Link to comment
nismo dr Posted May 16, 2010 Report Share Posted May 16, 2010 Kinda fucked. Is that a technical term? :rofl: :P Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2010 Kinda fucked. Is that a technical term? :rofl: :P Yes actually, I found it in the back of a datsun manual :rofl: Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted May 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2010 Got some goodies in the mail today :) Quote Link to comment
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