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Weber 32/36 Diagnostic help...


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So i been on here asking about this issue before and had some reccomendations and tried them and had luck now since the weather has changed i got a few other issues that i need everyones help with.... its a 32/36 that i was having a washing down the cylinders problem...customer came in wanted something powdercoated and said he could fix my issues i was having by rejetting it....took it for an afternoon and i think all he did was mess with the mixture screw cause it was better for a while now, It will flood periodically when i try and start it back up and i am getting heavy sooty discharge(yes i said discharge) out of the tail pipe... the oil is again starting to smell of gasoline again and i dont wanna waste a set of bearings...like my mazda that sits dead thanks to this carb...anyway the carb has only seen maybe 8000 miles between my mazda and datsun....funny it was sooting up the drive way idling in my mazda too....am i just way off on jetting or what....since i started having the flooding at restart issue i have noticed that the idle sometimes doesn't wanna drop back down to the set spot either...the flooding issue really is only when i go smewhere , jump out then get back in, in under two hours... over night its fine...half a day its fine....now that i am charging good with the saturn alt... i wanna make sure this thing is gonna run its best to....to me it sounds like my washing the cyylinders down and flooding problem are linked....its wierd this carb has had this problem since day one....its actually the second 32/36 i got ht efirst was gross ly over jetted on the mazda. sent it back the next day....black smoke that burned your eyes and reeked of fuel while running....any questions or frther info needed to help diagnose this problem or suggestions would be great... thanks Jon

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couple of other things i noticed was that ofter shut off the smell of raw fuel and some residual fule around the gasket area not much just damp a little....


Was that particular weber that you are having trouble with meant for your truck ?


I honestly do not know much about carburetor re-jetting , but I do know that when you start to run into metering block issues , stick float or dirty/worn needle and seat it is about time to have a quote on a professional shop to rebuild the carb for you ! ( because on a carb as one thing starts to go , so does the rest close behind in my experience with many carbs ! ) ( I was quoted $210 U.S dollars with fine tune adjustment after rebuilding on my weber 32/36 DGV carb for my 240z ) Do some research , the carb rebuilders will be able to tell you exactly what jetting needs to be done , will tune very close where it needs to be , replace with genuine parts ( the ones I like do at least ) , re dip your carb with anti corrosion coatings , and probably be less on your own mind whether you did it correct or not ! ( I have seen carbs from factory with thread shavings plugging the jet holes after opening up ! )


I know Hitachi SU carbs you can do yourself easily and would not hesitate to do , and if you know your engine is in great shape a little more money is not much ! If you decide to re-build yourself it seems like you would want original parts as you know ( cheap stuff almost never works quite correctly IMHO )


It might be worth it too have your carb re-built , and you just work a little over time ! ( or if your comfortable , just be very clean , use non metallic cleaning supplies , clean every orifirice , ( make sure you don't have bushings or parts that can melt with carb cleaning , have had that happen to me on a subaru carburetor , threw the thing away ! ) be detailed , dedicated space , and use GOOD SCREW DRIVERS ! )


You can also buy a new one for around $225 + shipping , then order a $30 rebuild kit and dink around with the old one. Carbs to me are something that you really can't tinker with too much without paying a price somehow ! just a thought !


Thanks for letting me reply ! :D ( you can get close , but with carb stuff I like to be a perfectionist , and not rasp the cylinders or wash down the oil because I think I screwed up , I don't sleep much after things like that happen ! LOL ! )

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Number one cause of flooding is a sticky fuel inlet valve. A new one is included in your $15 rebuild kit. Just change that one part, don't bother to rebuild the whole thing (too easy to mess up a good carb).


I agree , but don't buy the cheapy parts , get the originals if you can ( I have seen a huge difference especially machining in my kits with the tolerances ! ) ( Holley's are sensitive to the brand of needle/seat valves , but I am not sure about Webbers ) Good Luck !

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I'd start by cleaning out the emulsion tubes. The tiniest grit in those will richen the thing up. They are the tubes just under the air correctors if you unsrew those, Just do one side at a time as to not confuse primary and the secondary. When you unscrew the air corrector jet you will see the emulsion tube underneath and you can use a small tapered punch or something like that to get a hold of it and it will lift out. When you get them out tap them upsidedown on a piece of white paper to see what comes out. Then check the float level, it sould be in the middle or just starting up the radius of the step in the float bowl. The step being the little step out casted in that the carb tp fits in that the float hangs from. Hope that helps. I wish I had some pics so I could explain better. If you want more detail IM me.

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If i understood post 1, it's not a problem of being too rich. It's a problem of flooding (fuel running down into the carb). A blocked air tube could cause that, but it's unlikely to be intermittent.


In any case, when you replace the inlet valve (needle valve) spray every little passageway and make sure it comes out somewhere (not blocked).

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so ...my plugs are still pretty dark so i think its a combination of rich and the flooding....but i dunno the thing is only a couple years form being new ....had a nice back fire the other morning then it started running a little wierder than just the flooding mainly the not returning to a normal idle

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That doesnt look like a 32/3 to me plus its a reverse pull type.

Main barrel is on the other side than standard 32/36s But we went throw this before.


You sure the fuel pump isnt causing gas in oil?


I say ck the needle jet on the carb. maybe a float arm needs adjustment or the needle is stick as mentioned.


let me kno about the saturn 3 wire plug if the 3rd wire was used ?




Is that hose goting to the PVC valve pinched???????

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That's a 32/36 (or I believe it is) but it's a DFEV (not a DGEV), which just means it's backwards.


As said above, if it's flooding just trying to start it it's getting too much fuel from the bowl overflowing.


Only 3 things can cause that:


1) Too much fuel pressure, which forces the float needle valve open. This is a VERY common problem with Webers particularly ones run off electric pumps and no fuel return lines- but it can happen with mechanical pumps too.


2) Sunk or maladjusted float


3) Stuck or leaking needle valve.

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well was turned around the other way but the throttle cable was too short( real tight) and there was this terrible whistle (video of it on a thread archive) it wasn't a datsun carb i bought it for my mazda and switched it to this when my mazda threw a rod.....it had the same problem on my mazda the flooding and running to rich.. I think I might just buy a new one and rebuild the mazda one annd put it back on when I get a motor for it....it seems to hav the exact same problem i had when it was on the mazda truck....

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Guest kamakazi620

I don't see a strong return spring on there,If I was you I'd buy a new webber meant for your datsun,and buy a rebuild kit for that one + some smaller jets,make sure you have a good strong return spring or it won't idle down.

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I don't see a strong return spring on there,If I was you I'd buy a new webber meant for your datsun,and buy a rebuild kit for that one + some smaller jets,make sure you have a good strong return spring or it won't idle down.


Yeah I was gonna try a stronger one to see if I could get a more consistent idle......I think its pissed and knows we are talking about it....last night on the way home it wouldnt idle at all kept stalling out.....I don't wanna spend more money but its looking like maybe I should....gonna try some stuff today at work to see f has an effect

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i swear i responded to your pm, yes on two wires were used the l and s, f not used, ....s to yellow and the white with black to the L...works great....the alt does ...the carb is about to be a boat anchor....stupid thing is stalling out at every light....unless i give it throttle....little back ground bought 4 of these for mazda's that me and a buddy were building...sold the other three trucks cause we couldnt get the carbs to be consitent...just when u get it running right it would do whats happening to me right now...wouldn't idle or choke would stick on, i'd have to mess with the mixture screw everytime a cloud rolled through....Honestly i used webers before on vw's and other cars but this set of carbs suck and the old ones were way nicer to use....feel like i should get "Im weber redlines bitch" tatooed on my chest....seriously I would buy the right one for my truck but there track record with me is causing serious doubt...I mean crap its not like i am sincing duals or something...wtf...now i cant find my schmatic break down.... i guess when it rains it pours....makes me pine for a hitachi...

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So here s an update carb still runs like shit....tigtened base gasket got a little better still is all over the place...tuned it and cleaned it to no avail... worse news some on e broke into my datsun and stole a bunch of my rc racing gear and my blackberry, ipaq and digi camera... yeah for me my truck dont run worth shit or keep tweekers out...oh yeah they stole my change not the pennies they took the time o pic out the silver only... thats how i know it was a tweeker..

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I figured how how I am gonna fix my df carb...Im gonna take it off and order the right one from race tep with better jetting....I am tired of trying to monkey withthis thing i will just rebuild it jet it and put it back on the mazda when i get a motor for it.....trying to make it woirk when it obvioulsy needs to get re done is just a waste of my time....oh well nother 300.00 bucks down the drain.....

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