72wagun Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 I've never been a fan of bleeding brakes, but I've had pretty good luck with the old glass jar full of brake fluid and clear hose method. This method is good because you can see if you are still pushing bubbles out of the system, but you still have to time your opening of the bleeder with someone pushing the pedal down or air can get sucked back in through the bleeder threads. I searched around, and saw some discussion about these: They use a check valve so that air can't get back in when you let off on the pedal, and they claim to have sealed threads so they don't leak air (it looks like they just have something smeared on the threads to me). I just came accross these: They look like the perfect solution because they create a check valve before the threads. It seems to me that you could just attach the clear hose to the bleeder, put it in the jar with brake fluid, pump the brakes until you don't get any more bubbles, and then tighten them down. Has anyone used these before? Do they work? Quote Link to comment
Duke Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 I recently installed the speedbleaders (top photo) on all hydraulic lines in my 510. One of the best things I have done. You can blead the brakes easily by yourself in a few minutes. I have had no problems with them leaking around the threads, and from the reviews I have read, neither has anybody else. Quote Link to comment
SRSANDS Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 Im goinf to pick a set of those.....whats the thread size for our Dattos Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 I've had a set of the speed bleeders for years....too bad they're in the box of 280zx stuff waiting to go on the car :( Quote Link to comment
72wagun Posted November 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 Glad to hear they work as well as they claim. Summit has them for about $10 each (either kind). At that price they kind of add up, but it seems like a pretty good investment. Quite a bit cheaper than some of the bleeder systems out there. I don't remember the thread size. I bought new regular bleeders about a year ago (still sitting on the shelf), but I can't remember the size. Anyone know off the top of their head? I found a thread that mentioned 3/8-24 for a 521. Is it the same for 510s? Btw Mike, I know the feeling of getting parts, but no time to put them on. I've been accumalating parts for my wagon and pickup, but can't find the time to work on them. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 I usually make time to help other people out....so you come work on mine and I'll come work on yours!! :) 521 is SAE....wgn is metric. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 i had the top set on a wagon i sold, worked great. now i have a kid w/good legs :lol: 521 is SAE....wgn is metric. :cursing: hate it when that happens! Quote Link to comment
72wagun Posted November 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 I usually make time to help other people out....so you come work on mine and I'll come work on yours!! :) 521 is SAE....wgn is metric. Haha! Good idea, I have the same problem sometimes. You don't happen to remember the metric thread size do you? It looks like RockAuto lists M10-1.0 x 35mm long. i had the top set on a wagon i sold, worked great. now i have a kid w/good legs :lol: :cursing: hate it when that happens! That works too:D My three year old son is fun to have in the garage when I'm working, but his attention span is... limited. I think I might end up getting some of these "one man" bleeders. He has his own projects to work on anyway (like making forts out of my stuff):rolleyes: Quote Link to comment
Duke Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 The ones I purchased from Summit came in a pack of 2, so you only need 2 of them. From what I recall, the fronts were M10x1 (280zx calipers, but I think the 510 ones are the same) and the rears were M7x1 (stock rear drums). I don't know about sizes for a PU. Quote Link to comment
sssr20det510 Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 (edited) I have a pressure bleeder works way better :fu: Edited November 11, 2009 by sssr20det510 Quote Link to comment
jfbrink Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 A year ago I installed speed bleeders from Summit (the top picture) on my Roadster and it was the best thing I ever did to the car. For the first time in years I had genuinely firm brakes. I was never able to achieve that with a pressure bleeder, suction bleeder or old-fashion foot-and-friend bleeding. Thumbs up! Jesse. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted November 10, 2009 Report Share Posted November 10, 2009 For the first time in years I had genuinely firm brakes. another venice rat??? :cool: Quote Link to comment
Nice140Y Posted December 2, 2009 Report Share Posted December 2, 2009 The ones I purchased from Summit came in a pack of 2, so you only need 2 of them. From what I recall, the fronts were M10x1 (280zx calipers, but I think the 510 ones are the same) and the rears were M7x1 (stock rear drums). I don't know about sizes for a PU. Hi there, These sound like a great headache reliever/helper. Can any of you guys give a part number and manufacturer so that I can look for them here in Canada as I have never seen a Summit around here. Thanks, Enrique Quote Link to comment
Bears510 Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 Having worked on cars for years and heard about the speed bleeder but never used them, it is encouraging to hear that they are beneficial and work so well. Oddly tho, I am curious as to how they work. I am assuming you still have to "crack them open" to get them to bleed...or? Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 The speed bleeders have a check valve inside them. The reddish stuff on the picture is a sealer so air does not leak around the threads. I have used the hose from the bleeder into a container, below the level of the fluid in the container with standard bleeders, after wrapping a turn or two of teflon tape around the threads on a standard stock bleeder. Quote Link to comment
Bears510 Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 (edited) ok, did a little research and found that you do crack them a bit...makes sense now..lol! Edited December 6, 2009 by Bears510 Quote Link to comment
71ka510 Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 yup, crack em open...... put on a hose.... pump brake, let up slowly, go look for air bubbles...... if none retighten, done... if still bubbles then start from pump brake again..... super simple my brakes feel soooo much beter now... and you can get a set at your local napa for $25 Quote Link to comment
macrosshn Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 The ones I purchased from Summit came in a pack of 2, so you only need 2 of them. From what I recall, the fronts were M10x1 (280zx calipers, but I think the 510 ones are the same) and the rears were M7x1 (stock rear drums). I don't know about sizes for a PU. so did we get a definitive answer on thread pitch? i'm pretty sure it is M10 x 1 but there are different lenghts for this pitch. i measured the bleede valve for my 280zx calipers and they seem to be about 25mm overall. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 Has anyone tried the same without special bleeders? I always fit a hose to the stock bleeder, put the hose is glass of brake fluid, crack the bleeder and pump the pedal slowly until no more bubbles. It works great. Not sure what spending the extra money on special bleeders would do. Quote Link to comment
71ka510 Posted January 8, 2010 Report Share Posted January 8, 2010 i would say do to the fact, when you let up on the pedal it sucks fluid back in...... so unless you do a full flush everytime you bleed your brakes, you suck dirt and old fluid back on... and you dont have to be concerned if your hose isnt airtight around the nipple or if you sucked in air...... jus t more security Quote Link to comment
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