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jfbrink

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  • Content Count

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About jfbrink

  • Rank
    Hall Monitor
  • Birthday 07/25/1971

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.orange-claw-hammer.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Los Angeles, CA
  • Cars
    '66 PL411, '67 PL411 Wagon, '68 PL520, '68 Toyota Corona RT52, '60 Studebaker Lark
  • Interests
    Automotive modification/restoration
  • Occupation
    Writer / Fabricator

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  1. Time Left: 24 days and 16 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Discovered one of my axles and its bearing spacer were heavily grooved when I opened things up to replace the bearings. Would like to buy a replacement axle and spacer, preferably from someone near LA so we don't have to deal with shipping. Thank you, Jesse.

    $1

    - US

  2. Well, it looks like I have bigger problems than bad bearings. The inner race fell right off after I cut the collar free. Both the axle and the spacer are heavily grooved. Anyone in LA area have an extra axle they could part with? Jesse.
  3. So, I've finally gotten around to replacing my bad rear wheel bearings. I knew I had delayed too long when I realized I could tell how fast I was going by the pitch of the bearing whine. The driver's side bearing is full of rusty goo. It looks like water was getting in between the differential flange and the backing plate. Is there any reason that I shouldn't seal this joint with a thin layer of silicone sealant? This side has no shims. The passenger side, which still had viable grease in the bearing, has one shim. What do you all think? Jesse.
  4. Here's an update on the 411 wagon inner hatch seal experiment. First, I bought Steele Rubber's 70-0129-99, which is a rectangular profile soft foam measuring 5/8" x 1". I have a special case issue, which is that one corner of my wagon was poorly repaired decades ago, so that it has a much greater gap to the hatch than the other. So, I needed that 1" thickness there, even though the gap is much less elsewhere. Once trimmed, I faced two issues. The sharp rectangular profile did not look automotive/OEM at all. It looked like a storm door. And, even trimmed down, and being a soft foam,
  5. Time Left: 5 days and 5 hours

    • WANTED
    • NEW

    Hello, I need a left and right pair of working wiper pivot assemblies for my wagon. I don't need the arms, but if it's easier for you to leave them attached, that's fine. Let me know your price. Jesse. P.S. I accidentally marked my previous post "Complete" because I thought it meant I was done editing!

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

    Los Angeles - US

  6. I've managed to fix everything that went wrong at the exhaust shop, except for the shift linkage. I still don't understand what happened, but since I'm the only one who drives the car, I am fine to shift to N for R and L for D until I have a chunk of time to dig into the problem. I'm driving it daily, even though the decayed hatch seal fills the car with exhaust. It looks like I'll need to rethink my A/C condenser location. Putting it in front of the radiator really limited my fan options; there is just no space up front. And one 12" fan with no shroud can hold temperature steady,
  7. Well, I bit the bullet and bought a universal extrusion from Steele. The stock seal is very nearly rectangular and measures roughly 5/8" x 3/4". Steele and other suppliers had lots of options that were 1/16" under on both dimensions, which seemed the wrong direction to me. So, I went with Steele's 5/8" x 1". If it doesn't squish sufficiently, I'll make a little tool to slice it down. I'll report back once I've tested it. I sure hope it solves my problem. I just replaced the entire exhaust system, and if that had any effect, it made things worse. We'll see. Jesse.
  8. @MikeRL411 - Still thinking through what my solution to the cowl drains will be. I was able to retain them in previous swaps, but this engine was just a tad too long.
  9. I looked into this both because I wanted headrests and an adjustable back. What was clear very quickly was how narrow the 411 seats are. One donor option that seemed like it might work and not be too modern in profile was the MGB. First generation Honda Civics are also a possibility. As I recall, everything else was just too wide or too incongruous looking.
  10. @Datsunscom - Well, I'm not finished, yet. I am actually pretty judge-y about engine swaps that don't bother with the heater and hot rods (or cars of any kind) without wipers, so it's a bit of a sore point for me that I haven't been able to get around to these two items, yet. No wipers because I don't have a good set of the cast pot metal stands/surrounds that sit on the cowl. If anyone has a pair they are willing to sell, please let me know. But, the stock motor on the stock mounting plate will fit fine. I just need to make a removable tab to take the two lower mount screws. The
  11. Yeah, my hope was that someone had figured this out already, and I wouldn't have to be the one buying various profiles of extruded dense foam until I found one that fit. The 411 has an inner seal, set in a channel in the body, that appears to be a fairly simple rectangular profile. I think this is the one that keeps exhaust out. Then there is a more complex outer seal, attached to the hatch, which I guess is for keeping out rain. The outer seal in 67 wagons is rather complex, with semi-rectangular sides and a wing-shaped upper edge. @Duncan - Makes a point that has me h
  12. Has anyone found a good solution for replacing the weatherstrip around the hatch in their wagon? An amazing amount of exhaust gets sucked into mine, and driving around like this really limits utility:
  13. Okay, gang, the wagon runs and drives. I need to take it to the exhaust shop before I can really shake it down. It is very, very loud. But, everything seems to work as it should so far. Once I have exhaust (next week) and have driven around a bit, I will post a video. For now, some wrap-up pics. Overview of completed engine bay. It's all really packed in there: Dual line brakes with all new copper lines and the Blue Hands front disk kit. Inexpensive turbo manifold from eBay to save me having to fab a manifold that would clear the steering box. Ho
  14. Hey, gang, Time for another update, this time with photos. Essentially, I have the following tasks remaining before I can drive, at least around the block: -Mount ECU and TCU -Finish engine harness -Fabricate rear battery mount -Fabricate downpipe for O2 sensor -Mount cooling fans -Wire front turn signals (and probably headlights, horn and window spritz, since I'll be right there with wire) -Fill with fluids, bleed brakes Here's an overview shot showing where I'm at as of today: As we all know, the engine
  15. Here's a brief update with no photos, so not much of an update at all? Since my last post, a guy talking on his cell phone rear ended my Corona Coupe, so it's off the road indefinitely. A real bummer, as I doubt I'll be able to fix it. Two years of searching for the car, two years for my slow build and then two months of driving it. Oh, well. Now my daily driver is a 1960 Studebaker Lark, so I can't complain that much? I just hope I get an acceptable amount from his insurance company. Meanwhile, here's what I've done on the 411 wagon swap: -New fuel supply and return li
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