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About jfbrink

  • Birthday 07/25/1971

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Los Angeles, CA
  • Cars
    '66 PL411, '67 PL411 Wagon, '68 PL520, '68 Toyota Corona RT52, '60 Studebaker Lark
  • Interests
    Automotive modification/restoration
  • Occupation
    Writer / Fabricator

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  1. Time Left: 4 days and 14 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Discovered one of my axles and its bearing spacer were heavily grooved when I opened things up to replace the bearings. Would like to buy a replacement axle and spacer, preferably from someone near LA so we don't have to deal with shipping. Thank you, Jesse.


    - US

  2. Well, it looks like I have bigger problems than bad bearings. The inner race fell right off after I cut the collar free. Both the axle and the spacer are heavily grooved. Anyone in LA area have an extra axle they could part with? Jesse.
  3. So, I've finally gotten around to replacing my bad rear wheel bearings. I knew I had delayed too long when I realized I could tell how fast I was going by the pitch of the bearing whine. The driver's side bearing is full of rusty goo. It looks like water was getting in between the differential flange and the backing plate. Is there any reason that I shouldn't seal this joint with a thin layer of silicone sealant? This side has no shims. The passenger side, which still had viable grease in the bearing, has one shim. What do you all think? Jesse.
  4. Here's an update on the 411 wagon inner hatch seal experiment. First, I bought Steele Rubber's 70-0129-99, which is a rectangular profile soft foam measuring 5/8" x 1". I have a special case issue, which is that one corner of my wagon was poorly repaired decades ago, so that it has a much greater gap to the hatch than the other. So, I needed that 1" thickness there, even though the gap is much less elsewhere. Once trimmed, I faced two issues. The sharp rectangular profile did not look automotive/OEM at all. It looked like a storm door. And, even trimmed down, and being a soft foam, it offered a LOT of resistance to closing the hatch. So, I next bought Steele Rubber's 40-0480-73. This is a 5/8" x 7/16" soft foam with a "check mark" shaped section. I used a trimmed length of the 70-0129-99 to fill the excess gap in the one corner. Then, I was able to run the 40-0480-73 around the entire channel without modification. I have not yet glued the weatherstrip into place. It is just held in with masking tape. The hatch opens and closes nicely, because the seal is created by bending the leg of the check mark. Before I installed the weatherstrip, CO levels inside the car were between 20 and 40 PPM, depending on driving conditions. With the weatherstrip installed, they are 0 to 10 PPM, depending on driving conditions. Cruising on open road best; accelerating from stop sign/light to stop sign/light is the worst. Window open / closed / cracked doesn't affect it much with seal. Window cracked / open is actually worse for CO without seal; I assume it's sucking the CO forward in the cabin. That's my report for now.... Jesse.
  5. Time Left: 13 days and 5 hours

    • WANTED
    • NEW

    Hello, I need a left and right pair of working wiper pivot assemblies for my wagon. I don't need the arms, but if it's easier for you to leave them attached, that's fine. Let me know your price. Jesse. P.S. I accidentally marked my previous post "Complete" because I thought it meant I was done editing!


    Los Angeles - US

  6. I've managed to fix everything that went wrong at the exhaust shop, except for the shift linkage. I still don't understand what happened, but since I'm the only one who drives the car, I am fine to shift to N for R and L for D until I have a chunk of time to dig into the problem. I'm driving it daily, even though the decayed hatch seal fills the car with exhaust. It looks like I'll need to rethink my A/C condenser location. Putting it in front of the radiator really limited my fan options; there is just no space up front. And one 12" fan with no shroud can hold temperature steady, but the fan never shuts off once the thermostat fully opens. I think I'll have to go with two little condensers set down low near the sway bar. Jesse.
  7. Well, I bit the bullet and bought a universal extrusion from Steele. The stock seal is very nearly rectangular and measures roughly 5/8" x 3/4". Steele and other suppliers had lots of options that were 1/16" under on both dimensions, which seemed the wrong direction to me. So, I went with Steele's 5/8" x 1". If it doesn't squish sufficiently, I'll make a little tool to slice it down. I'll report back once I've tested it. I sure hope it solves my problem. I just replaced the entire exhaust system, and if that had any effect, it made things worse. We'll see. Jesse.
  8. @MikeRL411 - Still thinking through what my solution to the cowl drains will be. I was able to retain them in previous swaps, but this engine was just a tad too long.
  9. I looked into this both because I wanted headrests and an adjustable back. What was clear very quickly was how narrow the 411 seats are. One donor option that seemed like it might work and not be too modern in profile was the MGB. First generation Honda Civics are also a possibility. As I recall, everything else was just too wide or too incongruous looking.
  10. @Datsunscom - Well, I'm not finished, yet. I am actually pretty judge-y about engine swaps that don't bother with the heater and hot rods (or cars of any kind) without wipers, so it's a bit of a sore point for me that I haven't been able to get around to these two items, yet. No wipers because I don't have a good set of the cast pot metal stands/surrounds that sit on the cowl. If anyone has a pair they are willing to sell, please let me know. But, the stock motor on the stock mounting plate will fit fine. I just need to make a removable tab to take the two lower mount screws. The stock tab that was welded to the firewall got in the way when moving the engine in and out. No heater because I am building a custom heater/air conditioning setup for the car. This involves a blower box from a Geo Metro that I've already modified and mounted under the stock heater air intake and a metal box to hold the heater core and AC evaporator, along with a defrost/room flapper. I've designed the box and built in in cardboard, but I moved to a new house before I could fabricate it, and it will be months before my workshop is usable again. I'm pretty bummed because when I drove the car to the exhaust shop, and it was so quick and smooth. A delight. But, when I went to pick it up, the ignition switch was broken, there was a massive vacuum leak that I can't locate, the entire brake pedal had fallen off and the shifter mechanism was totally jacked. This is the fifth engine swap I have taken to this shop, and I like their work, but this time around was a disaster. Thanks to the move, I haven't had the time or the space to deal with any of these issues. Such a drag. Best, Jesse.
  11. Yeah, my hope was that someone had figured this out already, and I wouldn't have to be the one buying various profiles of extruded dense foam until I found one that fit. The 411 has an inner seal, set in a channel in the body, that appears to be a fairly simple rectangular profile. I think this is the one that keeps exhaust out. Then there is a more complex outer seal, attached to the hatch, which I guess is for keeping out rain. The outer seal in 67 wagons is rather complex, with semi-rectangular sides and a wing-shaped upper edge. @Duncan - Makes a point that has me hopeful. I'm just about to get a new exhaust for the car now that I've finished my engine swap. The old exhaust could easily have been leaking surreptitiously as I'm fairly certain it was original to the car and had definitely seen better days. I'm surprised there are no 411 wagon folks have who haven't already run around this mulberry bush? Jesse.
  12. Has anyone found a good solution for replacing the weatherstrip around the hatch in their wagon? An amazing amount of exhaust gets sucked into mine, and driving around like this really limits utility:
  13. Okay, gang, the wagon runs and drives. I need to take it to the exhaust shop before I can really shake it down. It is very, very loud. But, everything seems to work as it should so far. Once I have exhaust (next week) and have driven around a bit, I will post a video. For now, some wrap-up pics. Overview of completed engine bay. It's all really packed in there: Dual line brakes with all new copper lines and the Blue Hands front disk kit. Inexpensive turbo manifold from eBay to save me having to fab a manifold that would clear the steering box. Honda motorcycle coils. An eBay aluminum radiator and fans from Mishimoto: On the right side we have a Kia Soul fuse box, a super-compact cobra head intake elbow from a Kenworth semi truck, and a universal throttle cable from Control Cables. I still need to take the harness out once more and wrap everything: The ECU, TCU, Deutsch bulkhead connector for the 42 wires and the bulkhead stud for the remote battery. Oh, and some un-patched holes: The aforementioned remote Miata AGM battery. Just on the far side of the battery is a 200A circuit breaker that I can easily switch through the side access panel without lifting the deck: That's about it until I make a video. Thanks for looking. Jesse.
  14. Hey, gang, Time for another update, this time with photos. Essentially, I have the following tasks remaining before I can drive, at least around the block: -Mount ECU and TCU -Finish engine harness -Fabricate rear battery mount -Fabricate downpipe for O2 sensor -Mount cooling fans -Wire front turn signals (and probably headlights, horn and window spritz, since I'll be right there with wire) -Fill with fluids, bleed brakes Here's an overview shot showing where I'm at as of today: As we all know, the engine bay in the 411s is super short, front to back, so fitting radiator, condenser and intake tubing was tricky. The key component was the "cobra head" elbow that comes off the manifold. It's from a Kenworth semi truck of all things. At the bottom of the below image you can see the condenser, which is from a Geo Metro, which is the source for most of my A/C components. It's mounted with "headless" bolts I made, which pass through short lengths of vacuum hose so the condenser "floats" somewhat. The radiator is an aftermarket eBay three-row meant for MK1 and MK2 Volkswagen Golfs. It's turned upside down and hard mounted as shown: A variety of hoses assembled from my hose bag and a trip to the parts store with some bent hanger wire: The 411 doesn't offer very good paths for EFI fuel lines from the front to the back of the car. I moved the brake line to the left side of the tunnel, along with the fuel return line. I kept the wiring on the right side of the tunnel and added the fuel supply line: I was surprised and delighted to discover that the stock A/T gear selection indicator is luminescent: I like to have hazard lights, which is easy to do in the 411 using a spare headlight switch, spare flasher pot, the unused lighter hole and a heater fan knob painted orange: Here's hoping my next update will include a driving video.... Jesse.
  15. Here's a brief update with no photos, so not much of an update at all? Since my last post, a guy talking on his cell phone rear ended my Corona Coupe, so it's off the road indefinitely. A real bummer, as I doubt I'll be able to fix it. Two years of searching for the car, two years for my slow build and then two months of driving it. Oh, well. Now my daily driver is a 1960 Studebaker Lark, so I can't complain that much? I just hope I get an acceptable amount from his insurance company. Meanwhile, here's what I've done on the 411 wagon swap: -New fuel supply and return lines -New brake lines -Modified 2008 Kia Soul fuse box (holds all the necessary fuses and relays for old and new circuits) -Oil pan cut and patched -Custom drive shaft fabricated -Stock 411 A/T gear selector joined to Miata A/T (via Geo Tracker cable and various custom brackets) -New rear wire harness At this point, I'm aiming to make it run, drive, stop so that I can move the car. Basically, that means that everything will be done, but the engine/ECU harness will be very messy. Remaining to do before test drive: -Cast custom thermostat housing -Reinstall oilpan (this is a hassle on the Miata engine) -Return engine to car (probably with some tunnel clearancing for shifter mechanism) -Figure out mounting for A/C condenser -Figure out mounting for radiator -Plumb radiator -Temporarily graft coil igniter to engine/ECU harness -Temporarily graft engine/ECU harness to fusebox -Bleed brakes Not a terrible list, but I have a lot of other stuff going on, so we'll see how long it takes. Jesse.
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