Jump to content

purchase a 72 510 4 door ~ my 1st dime


420n620

Recommended Posts

G morning, got the fuse block installed and put the correct fuses in. Cleaned all of the spade connectors, battery connected then turned the key and she is now turning over so I took a compression test and came up with good readings, maybe to good on one of the holes.

Here's what I got, #1 = 160, #2 = 190, #3 = 155, #4 = 160, on the first compression stroke it jumped up to 80 lbs then slowly stepped up about 10 to 15 until it reached it's final compression reading. I'm going to say thats a wet test since I squirted about 5 pumps of oil into each cylinders plus there's oil spewed all over the inner fender. :lol:

Also would like to mention that oil is oozing out on all the cam lobes. :thumbup:

I got a short day today to work on the dime because a friend is taking me steelhead fishing this afternoon and we don't stop fishing until midnight.

I'm going to try and get it started today before I go so I got to check the carb out, gap plugs, run temp gas can, make sure I got spark, fuel pump is working and a few other little things. If I get the time I'll post if I get it running today.

Edited by 420n620
Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

time to update, cleaned all the terminals on the fuse block, new fuses, cleaned coil connectors and resistor connectors, took the original carb off and found out that 3 screws that hold the top of carb were stripped and the accelerator plugger was not squriting fuel, so I took my 32/36 DGAV weber off the 79 620 and opened it up to make sure no dirt or deposits were going to cause any probs, all looked good. Got it bolted down, hooked the weber up to a temp gas line with a aux gas can, cranked it over for a few minutes and she now runs, except when I let go of the ignition key she dies. For some reason I knew that was going to happen. lol Guess it's time to do some researching so I can get it to stay running. Thats it for now. :thumbup:

Link to comment

OK, key in on position - test light on negative side of coil = no light, when I turn the key into start position it lights up but goes out when I let go of the key.

key in on position - I put test light on positive side it does light up, when I go to start position it stays lit until I let go of the key, it goes off.

 

 

EDIT: I found out that the ignition switch was not returning all the way back to the on position, thats why the light was going out when I released the key.

 

now the 510 is running. Tomorrow, yank the gas tank out, clean the fuel lines, check all the running lights.

Edited by 420n620
edit - add info
Link to comment
OK, key in on position - test light on negative side of coil = no light, when I turn the key into start position it lights up but goes out when I let go of the key.

key in on position - I put test light on positive side it does light up, when I go to start position it stays lit until I let go of the key, it goes off.

 

 

EDIT: I found out that the ignition switch was not returning all the way back to the on position, thats why the light was going out when I released the key.

 

now the 510 is running. Tomorrow, yank the gas tank out, clean the fuel lines, check all the running lights.

 

sweet

 

I say just drain the tank out.

Replace the fuel filter

Put new gas and see how it runs.

Link to comment

I may be dead ass wrong but isnt this the high/low beam relay for the head lights ? The only reason I say that is my High beams did not work when I bought my 620 . I was investigating the problem and I seen a relay that looks like your relays twin :lol: and it had one of the wire connectors unplugged . So I plugged it in and now I have brights , the funny thing is in your picture it is located around your horns and mine is mounted by my horns :lol:

 

1dpaq.jpg

Link to comment
I may be dead ass wrong but isnt this the high/low beam relay for the head lights ? The only reason I say that is my High beams did not work when I bought my 620 . I was investigating the problem and I seen a relay that looks like your relays twin :lol: and it had one of the wire connectors unplugged . So I plugged it in and now I have brights , the funny thing is in your picture it is located around your horns and mine is mounted by my horns :lol:

 

1dpaq.jpg

 

 

Nope

That's dual point relay for dual point Ignition.

Link to comment
Nope

That's dual point relay for dual point Ignition.

 

AWWW,thats what it is, I guess something will have to been done with that when I drop the L20B in, it got EI.

is that going to cause a bunch of headaches when the time comes for the trans plant.

 

getto, I just picked up another 78 620 (# 9 ) last Saturday, my addiction is getting a little out of control. Wished some of you guys lived closer, I'm running out of space and can't squeeze any more on the property.... :eek:

Edited by 420n620
mis spelled a word
Link to comment

OK, key in on position - test light on negative side of coil

 

should be + side of coil. or remove the wire from the coil it should ,lite up/12volts with key in ON position. - side of coil is ground and should not lite up, unless the distributor is position in a way where the light comes on cause its reading thru the length of wire in the coil . light really will be less brite or lower voltage.

 

 

as for the dual point relay if you have a 78 or later I think those would not be in the truck.

 

as for the 12volt in start and no 12volt in On on key position I sometimes have a loose connection under the turnsignal harness. I disconnect the plug and replug it back in some times.

 

pretty much standard if the blk/wht wire has 12volt in ON(12volt in START in point sytem cars,blk/blu in 510s) this car/truck electrical is fine. the relays will bot be used and can be made to work

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
Link to comment

I'll get a volts meter today and check what the volt reading is at the coil, both neg and pos just so I know. I think all I need to do is clean ALL the electrical plug connectors at the ignition switch and make sure I have good ground to the engine. She starts up fine after I wiggle the key around, kind of stiff to turn key, I need to pull the switch and clean it up with electronic cleaner, if thats possiable.

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

a little update, I've run into a problem and can't figure out WTF. I removed the gas tank and clean it then cleaned out the fuel line from the tank to the carb, then removed the float because it had a good coat of varnish on the wiring so I took some carb cleaner and got it looking and working good again. So I reinstalled the gas tank, hooked up all the hoses and filled the tank. Got in and cranked it over in spurts so not to over heat the starter, after 5 minutes of trying to start it I thought it should of had gas up to carb by then so I noticed that there was no fuel in the fuel filter, disconnect the inlet fuel hose and blew back into the tank with the air hose with no results so pumped all the gas back out of the tank and removed it. Put a hoses on the tank outlet and no air will pass through, I've put carb cleaner in it, took a chunk of wire to see if that would help and still can't get air to flow through. There are 2 metal tubes coming out, one is 5/16 and the other is 1/4 which is what the fuel line was hook to, the 5/16 was plugged off , I assume the 5/16 is for a return line which the 72 dime doesn't have. Has anybody else had this prob and am I coming off the right outlet tube.

Link to comment
have you removed the sending unit to see which one is the real fuel pickup/ use that one, shouldnt have any problems, sounds like you are using a vent tube as a pickup tube dude

 

yea, I removed the sending unit and looked inside with a flash light but can't see any of the tubes because theres the baffle in the way.

The reason that i'm trying to use the small tube is because thats what the fuel line was attached to, if i can't open it up tomorrow I'll use the larger tube.

 

The larger one SHOULD be the fuel supply line... but I suppose I could be wrong. My 70 and late 510s all had the fuel supply on the passenger side, I never used a return line.

 

my fuel supple is also on the passenger side besides theres no fuel line up by the vavle cover for a return line so I'll just use the larger one if I can't open the small tube.

Link to comment
  • 1 month later...

I like the third set of wheels myself. That really is a good score. It looks like you have a great project to start with. I'm waiting for the weather to warm up so I can start on my dime race car project. Its snowing outside right now. Good Luck

Link to comment

I like the 3rd set also, I went up to where that car was and the car is gone now. I'm sure I'll find something around town or on CL down the road, it not a big issue yet, right now I want to take the dash out but it's been to cOOled outside, come on spring.

update::

I finally got the 1/4" tube cleared of the old tarnish, what a bitch it was. I found out if I was to use the 5/16 tube, it is about a inch from the bottom, the 1/4" tube turns down ward to get closer to the bottom of the tank, so now it good to go... wOOt

the only thing I do with the dime is start it up once a week to keep the engine lube. thats it for now till it starts warming up...

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.