420n620 Posted October 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2009 (edited) G morning, got the fuse block installed and put the correct fuses in. Cleaned all of the spade connectors, battery connected then turned the key and she is now turning over so I took a compression test and came up with good readings, maybe to good on one of the holes. Here's what I got, #1 = 160, #2 = 190, #3 = 155, #4 = 160, on the first compression stroke it jumped up to 80 lbs then slowly stepped up about 10 to 15 until it reached it's final compression reading. I'm going to say thats a wet test since I squirted about 5 pumps of oil into each cylinders plus there's oil spewed all over the inner fender. :lol: Also would like to mention that oil is oozing out on all the cam lobes. :thumbup: I got a short day today to work on the dime because a friend is taking me steelhead fishing this afternoon and we don't stop fishing until midnight. I'm going to try and get it started today before I go so I got to check the carb out, gap plugs, run temp gas can, make sure I got spark, fuel pump is working and a few other little things. If I get the time I'll post if I get it running today. Edited October 21, 2009 by 420n620 Quote Link to comment
420n620 Posted November 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2009 time to update, cleaned all the terminals on the fuse block, new fuses, cleaned coil connectors and resistor connectors, took the original carb off and found out that 3 screws that hold the top of carb were stripped and the accelerator plugger was not squriting fuel, so I took my 32/36 DGAV weber off the 79 620 and opened it up to make sure no dirt or deposits were going to cause any probs, all looked good. Got it bolted down, hooked the weber up to a temp gas line with a aux gas can, cranked it over for a few minutes and she now runs, except when I let go of the ignition key she dies. For some reason I knew that was going to happen. lol Guess it's time to do some researching so I can get it to stay running. Thats it for now. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
pl521sss Posted November 2, 2009 Report Share Posted November 2, 2009 cranked it over for a few minutes and she now runs, except when I let go of the ignition key she dies. When you let it go from "start" position it dies? Check the ignition coil if there's power while it's in "ON" position. Quote Link to comment
420n620 Posted November 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2009 OK, I'll step out right now and check it, BRB Quote Link to comment
420n620 Posted November 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2009 (edited) OK, key in on position - test light on negative side of coil = no light, when I turn the key into start position it lights up but goes out when I let go of the key. key in on position - I put test light on positive side it does light up, when I go to start position it stays lit until I let go of the key, it goes off. EDIT: I found out that the ignition switch was not returning all the way back to the on position, thats why the light was going out when I released the key. now the 510 is running. Tomorrow, yank the gas tank out, clean the fuel lines, check all the running lights. Edited November 3, 2009 by 420n620 edit - add info Quote Link to comment
pl521sss Posted November 3, 2009 Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 OK, key in on position - test light on negative side of coil = no light, when I turn the key into start position it lights up but goes out when I let go of the key. key in on position - I put test light on positive side it does light up, when I go to start position it stays lit until I let go of the key, it goes off. EDIT: I found out that the ignition switch was not returning all the way back to the on position, thats why the light was going out when I released the key. now the 510 is running. Tomorrow, yank the gas tank out, clean the fuel lines, check all the running lights. sweet I say just drain the tank out. Replace the fuel filter Put new gas and see how it runs. Quote Link to comment
slam_dat_sun Posted November 3, 2009 Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 I may be dead ass wrong but isnt this the high/low beam relay for the head lights ? The only reason I say that is my High beams did not work when I bought my 620 . I was investigating the problem and I seen a relay that looks like your relays twin :lol: and it had one of the wire connectors unplugged . So I plugged it in and now I have brights , the funny thing is in your picture it is located around your horns and mine is mounted by my horns :lol: Quote Link to comment
420n620 Posted November 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 I'm not sure what it is yet, I'm still looking for a 72 510 manual, that pic is from my 510, did you score a dime. Quote Link to comment
slam_dat_sun Posted November 3, 2009 Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 No way , I am not lucky enough to have a dime . It is better that I never have a dime cause I would more than likely drop a 383 stroker in it with a 2 speed power glide and a narrowed 9" ford rear end :lol: Quote Link to comment
pl521sss Posted November 3, 2009 Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 I may be dead ass wrong but isnt this the high/low beam relay for the head lights ? The only reason I say that is my High beams did not work when I bought my 620 . I was investigating the problem and I seen a relay that looks like your relays twin :lol: and it had one of the wire connectors unplugged . So I plugged it in and now I have brights , the funny thing is in your picture it is located around your horns and mine is mounted by my horns :lol: Nope That's dual point relay for dual point Ignition. Quote Link to comment
slam_dat_sun Posted November 3, 2009 Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 Haha that is one way to find out what it is , say you think it is something that it is not :lol: Quote Link to comment
Braden Posted November 3, 2009 Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 i dont know how i missed this!!!!! nice score!! save those 620's too!!!! cant wait to see more Quote Link to comment
420n620 Posted November 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 (edited) NopeThat's dual point relay for dual point Ignition. AWWW,thats what it is, I guess something will have to been done with that when I drop the L20B in, it got EI. is that going to cause a bunch of headaches when the time comes for the trans plant. getto, I just picked up another 78 620 (# 9 ) last Saturday, my addiction is getting a little out of control. Wished some of you guys lived closer, I'm running out of space and can't squeeze any more on the property.... :eek: Edited November 3, 2009 by 420n620 mis spelled a word Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 3, 2009 Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 (edited) OK, key in on position - test light on negative side of coil should be + side of coil. or remove the wire from the coil it should ,lite up/12volts with key in ON position. - side of coil is ground and should not lite up, unless the distributor is position in a way where the light comes on cause its reading thru the length of wire in the coil . light really will be less brite or lower voltage. as for the dual point relay if you have a 78 or later I think those would not be in the truck. as for the 12volt in start and no 12volt in On on key position I sometimes have a loose connection under the turnsignal harness. I disconnect the plug and replug it back in some times. pretty much standard if the blk/wht wire has 12volt in ON(12volt in START in point sytem cars,blk/blu in 510s) this car/truck electrical is fine. the relays will bot be used and can be made to work Edited November 3, 2009 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
420n620 Posted November 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 I'll get a volts meter today and check what the volt reading is at the coil, both neg and pos just so I know. I think all I need to do is clean ALL the electrical plug connectors at the ignition switch and make sure I have good ground to the engine. She starts up fine after I wiggle the key around, kind of stiff to turn key, I need to pull the switch and clean it up with electronic cleaner, if thats possiable. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 3, 2009 Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 She starts up fine after I wiggle the key around sounds like its its OK and just the key sticky. Quote Link to comment
freaky510 Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 love the color my dime was that color when i first got it. shit as soon as i get some time am going to have to come over and check it out !!!!!!! I need a vacation :D Quote Link to comment
420n620 Posted November 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 that would be cool, give me a heads up if you do and I'll get the guest bedroom clean out for you. ;) Quote Link to comment
420n620 Posted November 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 a little update, I've run into a problem and can't figure out WTF. I removed the gas tank and clean it then cleaned out the fuel line from the tank to the carb, then removed the float because it had a good coat of varnish on the wiring so I took some carb cleaner and got it looking and working good again. So I reinstalled the gas tank, hooked up all the hoses and filled the tank. Got in and cranked it over in spurts so not to over heat the starter, after 5 minutes of trying to start it I thought it should of had gas up to carb by then so I noticed that there was no fuel in the fuel filter, disconnect the inlet fuel hose and blew back into the tank with the air hose with no results so pumped all the gas back out of the tank and removed it. Put a hoses on the tank outlet and no air will pass through, I've put carb cleaner in it, took a chunk of wire to see if that would help and still can't get air to flow through. There are 2 metal tubes coming out, one is 5/16 and the other is 1/4 which is what the fuel line was hook to, the 5/16 was plugged off , I assume the 5/16 is for a return line which the 72 dime doesn't have. Has anybody else had this prob and am I coming off the right outlet tube. Quote Link to comment
Braden Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 have you removed the sending unit to see which one is the real fuel pickup/ use that one, shouldnt have any problems, sounds like you are using a vent tube as a pickup tube dude Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 The larger one SHOULD be the fuel supply line... but I suppose I could be wrong. My 70 and late 510s all had the fuel supply on the passenger side, I never used a return line. Quote Link to comment
420n620 Posted November 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 have you removed the sending unit to see which one is the real fuel pickup/ use that one, shouldnt have any problems, sounds like you are using a vent tube as a pickup tube dude yea, I removed the sending unit and looked inside with a flash light but can't see any of the tubes because theres the baffle in the way. The reason that i'm trying to use the small tube is because thats what the fuel line was attached to, if i can't open it up tomorrow I'll use the larger tube. The larger one SHOULD be the fuel supply line... but I suppose I could be wrong. My 70 and late 510s all had the fuel supply on the passenger side, I never used a return line. my fuel supple is also on the passenger side besides theres no fuel line up by the vavle cover for a return line so I'll just use the larger one if I can't open the small tube. Quote Link to comment
Dirttrack510 Posted December 26, 2009 Report Share Posted December 26, 2009 I like the third set of wheels myself. That really is a good score. It looks like you have a great project to start with. I'm waiting for the weather to warm up so I can start on my dime race car project. Its snowing outside right now. Good Luck Quote Link to comment
420n620 Posted December 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2009 I like the 3rd set also, I went up to where that car was and the car is gone now. I'm sure I'll find something around town or on CL down the road, it not a big issue yet, right now I want to take the dash out but it's been to cOOled outside, come on spring. update:: I finally got the 1/4" tube cleared of the old tarnish, what a bitch it was. I found out if I was to use the 5/16 tube, it is about a inch from the bottom, the 1/4" tube turns down ward to get closer to the bottom of the tank, so now it good to go... wOOt the only thing I do with the dime is start it up once a week to keep the engine lube. thats it for now till it starts warming up... Quote Link to comment
muck Posted December 26, 2009 Report Share Posted December 26, 2009 Very nice save for sure. Quote Link to comment
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