New HG, But Still H2O In Oil??

[atkinson40]

I'm Back. Been going through my rental after getting it back from my kid after he'd lived there 5 years. Good news is I can rent it for the $1200 its worth not the $800 I've been renting it to him for. Bad news is he left it a mess. Fuck...He's on my shit list.:mad:

 

OK now to the pickup question. I'd been going out and starting it once a day to warm it up and keep the battery charged. I'd just recently finished doing a HG replacement. Last time I started it I noticed the oil leaking from the pan gasket looked frothy. I removed the drain plug and out poured water. Is there any other way for water to get in the oil other than the head gasket? I thought the head surface was flat, but I may have made a mistake. I thought I'd ask before I took the head off again. Thanks kevin

[Z-train]

Did you re-surface the head?

[ggzilla]

Some engines can let water into the engine through the intake manifold gasket.

[420n620]

recheck the torque to make sure its where its suppose to be..

[datsunaholic]

Lots of ways to get water in the oil.

 

Gaskets: Blown Head Gasket, Manifold Gasket, timing cover gasket.

 

Warps: Warped block, head, manifold, timing cover can all blow gaskets.

 

Cracks: Cracked block, cracked head, cracked intake manifold, cracked timing cover.

 

Erosion: Eroded timing cover (leaks through water pump recess when pinholes form from caviatation)

[datzenmike]

Pull the water pump, gasket is a buck, and take a good look at the inside of the timing cover. If the timing cover gasket is bad around the lower rad hose inlet it can leak in beside the chain and down into the pan. Bolts tight?

[atkinson40]

Pull the water pump, gasket is a buck, and take a good look at the inside of the timing cover. If the timing cover gasket is bad around the lower rad hose inlet it can leak in beside the chain and down into the pan. Bolts tight?

 

 

Thanks DM, Will do. That would explain it. I'm not getting water in the cylinders, or at least not getting steam out the exhaust when it runs. I should have the gasket from the set that I bought when doing the HG. Kevin

[banzai510(hainz)]

front cover bad

[atkinson40]

I've removed the H2O pump. Where should I be looking for a problem? Thanks Kevin

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

just a basic look on my part over the internet look like the 8 o clock position could be corroded enough to let water by when its gets pressurized.

 

or where water comes from block into the front cover

 

 

looks like you should get a another front cover anyways.

L16/18 cover will work

[ggzilla]

If that cover is aluminum where the rusty areas are, it looks pitted. Could be a pinhole leak right there and when under 14psi /1 bar will leak a considerable amount. Yikes.

[atkinson40]

Thanks All. Looks like I can pull it off without removing the head? Is this correct? Drop the Oil Pan, pull the Oil Pump/Dizzy/Crankshaft Pulley, and maybe it will slide off? Thanks Kevin

[datzenmike]

Time the motor to TDC comp. drop oil pump and spindle, remove front oil pan bolts, don't forget the 4 bolts on the front botton of the head too. If it isn't bad or if you do replace it, replace the front oil seal now too.

 

Might be a good time to consider a chain/guide/tensioner kit and replace while everything is off.

[atkinson40]

I removed the front cover and it looks OK from the backside. The gasket could have been bad, but hard to tell as it broke up as I pulled the cover off. Timing chain tensioner etc. all look recently replaced. I'm going to clean all the surfaces up, replace the gasket and front seal, and put it back together. I'll also replace the pan gasket I honked up by over tensioning the bolts. -K

[ggzilla]

hmmm... if it still leaks when you are done, here's the way to solve the problem. Use a cooling system pressure tester. Pump it up to 20 psi or whatever the directions call for. Then listen. Use a hose to find out where the hissing comes from. I did this on a six year old Corona, it was the timing chain cover, a pinhole leak. This was after I replaced the head gasket. A little testing saves a lot of work....

[atkinson40]

Finally finished the timing chain cover gasket R&R. Replaced the oil pan gasket again also. Hopefully I didn't tighten the bolts too tight this time and it won't leak. Battery's charging and I will go to Autozone for oil later and fire it up. Hoping that I don't still get H2O in the oil.

[banzai510(hainz)]

front cover bolts dont take that much pressure.

remember the cover are aluminum and can crack.

 

if the front cover is pitted badly but still dont see any hole I still wouldnt run it myself.

 

good luck

make sure the oil pump has oil in it before start up.

[KPGC10]

I've seen a few L-series in the past that cracked through the oil feed passage. If this doesn't solve your problem, I'd look there next.

[atkinson40]

I got her up and running enough to put a timing lite on and realize I need to retard the oil pump dizzy drive sprocket at least one tooth. It's way advanced. The "11:25" position is confusing to me. From all the pictures I see, it looks more like "12:25" Regardless, I need to retard it.

 

While warming it up, the overflow hose began spewing water. Why would this happen? The temp gauge only showed about half way up. Also when I shut it off I could here a slight hiss coming from the intake/exhaust manifold area. Once I get it timed correctly I'll retry warming it up, but I'm expecting the "H2O in the Oil" problem may be coming from this hiss.

[KPGC10]

The radiator overflow is spewing water?

[datsunaholic]

Radiator overflow spewing water usually means you've got WAY too much pressure in the cooling system. I'd suspect you're still blowing combustion gasses into the cooling system- something isn't sealing, or you've got bigger problems like a cracked block or head.

[datzenmike]

With the timing set exactly at TDC on the compression stroke the dizzy drive spindle should look like this:

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/L%20Z%20Heads%20and%20Motors/motordistributortiming.jpg[/img]"]

 

If it's close it's good. Note that the tang? is offset to the left slightly.

[atkinson40]

Radiator overflow spewing water usually means you've got WAY too much pressure in the cooling system. I'd suspect you're still blowing combustion gasses into the cooling system- something isn't sealing, or you've got bigger problems like a cracked block or head.

 

I can here a hissing noise coming from the intake/exhaust manifold area. Is there a way for the exhaust to get into the cooling system from there and cause an excess pressure? Thanks Kevin

[atkinson40]

With the timing set exactly at TDC on the compression stroke the dizzy drive spindle should look like this:

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/L%20Z%20Heads%20and%20Motors/motordistributortiming.jpg[/img]"]

 

If it's close it's good. Note that the tang? is offset to the left slightly.

 

Thanks Mike, I've been using the bolts holes as the center line. -K

[banzai510(hainz)]

I would get another motor or have the head cked for a crack. If head OK throw block away and get a another L motor.