hessianben Posted September 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 Your project is getting there. Do you have access to the chassis that your motor & thans came from? If you do cut the crossmember brackets off of that chassis and weld them on yours if you decide to go that way. No- it went away to Datsun heaven... the crusher. Just from lookin under the 521- there's a main crossmember that is part of the frame, and behind that is the torsion bar crossmember... I don't see where there'd be room for another crossmember to fit! Quote Link to comment
hessianben Posted September 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 Went to work on the L16 pan with the wire brush... little paint next to the 620 pan pickup on left is L20b, right is L16 Another issue... existing exhaust flange doesn't allow for clearance around bottom of block and tranny going to have the muffler shop cut and bend and reweld to clear here are the 2 driveshafts from both motors Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted September 9, 2009 Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 Why not put plugs in the unused water inlet/outlet locations? Those hoses could spring a leak and leave you stranded. A plug is a pretty secure bet.. Quote Link to comment
SIXTY-NINE-DIME Posted September 9, 2009 Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 is this thing in yet?! Quote Link to comment
hessianben Posted September 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 Got down to brass tacks tonite. My brother jumped right in and we got this thing rolling... Clutch (thanks adam!) A-semble. wiggle. Issue: driver side mount is lined up and on. passenger side is about 1.5" out. I had noticed before, that the previous owner had about .5" of air between the motor mount and the block on the L16. I figured that he was just sloppy on the install... makes me wonder if maybe the frame is tweaked? Stopgap measure: we used thick steel spacers to allow us to bolt up for now and measure the driveline. will probably get a block of aluminum machined to fit in the gap and mount solid and flush. L20b with 5 speed. In it's un-natural habitat. My girl and the cat, approve. valve cover looks awful close to the hood line Smiler say: "I trade you 1 cats" Quote Link to comment
hessianben Posted September 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 Why not put plugs in the unused water inlet/outlet locations? Those hoses could spring a leak and leave you stranded. A plug is a pretty secure bet.. what do the plugs look like? is this one? It smells funny. Seriously, I would get pipe plugs if I knew what to look for... thanks Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted September 9, 2009 Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 Wanna be paisa Ben? Get any regular bolt that fits snug into that particular hose you want plugged. Plug it up with that bolt and use a clamp to hold the bolt in place. Instant cheap ass water blocker... You could also use a spark plug as a plug also for bigger hoses... Quote Link to comment
sdsurf Posted September 9, 2009 Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 Those motor mounts look like they are from a 620 not a 521 that may be your problem. I had the same thoughts when I put mine in. Make sure you use the mounts that were stock on the L16. The valve cover looked real close on mine too. WHen I closed the hood, no problem. L16 mount Note the differences with yours. Mine are not squared of and welded, they are rounder and one piece. Also note the Driver side is longer than yours Quote Link to comment
hessianben Posted September 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 Those motor mounts look like they are from a 620 not a 521 that may be your problem. I had the same thoughts when I put mine in. Make sure you use the mounts that were stock on the L16. Note the differences with yours. Mine are not squared of and welded, they are rounder and one piece. Also note the Driver side is longer than yours Yes, and I still have the L16 mounts and brackets. I don't think that is the problem though... I wish I had taken photos before because the L16 had almost that much gap and the PO had just cranked the bolts as close as he could get it and left it with 1/2" gap! I believe that both mount setups cover the same distance. I've been wrong before though! If it comes down to it, I have the L16 mounts to work with. thanks! Quote Link to comment
hessianben Posted September 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 Wanna be paisa Ben? Get any regular bolt that fits snug into that particular hose you want plugged. Plug it up with that bolt and use a clamp to hold the bolt in place. Instant cheap ass water blocker... You could also use a spark plug as a plug also for bigger hoses... haha that's what I got now!!!:rolleyes: Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted September 9, 2009 Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 I was thinking. Cant you make it look clean by using this? It just has two exits. One for the rad and the other for the heater... Want it? Quote Link to comment
hessianben Posted September 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 I was thinking. Cant you make it look clean by using this? It just has two exits. One for the rad and the other for the heater... Want it? That looks like it would work.... one less thing to rig up! Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted September 9, 2009 Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 Thanks for the inspiration Ben. And thanks for documenting this! My l-18 has been sitting on the engine stand for a few months, it was destined for the 521... but, since it has some ol skool aftermarket bits, now I am thinking of stuffing it in the '59. Hey Adam, where did that two outlet coolent thingy come from? My l-18 has a hose with a bolt in it like Ben's. (And thanks for the hookup on the short driveshaft piece!) Also Ben, what did you wind up doing for the trans mount for that long tail? I know taking 2" out of the stock 521 mount will fit the dogleg 5-speed (70's 200sx), is it the same spacing for the non-dogleg 5-speed? That'd be pretty cool, so you could use either type 5-speed if you had the different length driveshafts. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 9, 2009 Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 (edited) Since you have this head without the holes to circulate coolant through the intake: ... and you have this intake that does have coolant circulation with the outlet pipe: ... and because you also have the thermostat by-pass hose: ...and the return point on the lower rad inlet: ... why not drill the holes out on the head and run it??? Nissan designers found that the L series ran better and with better economy using this method when the intake air was at a regulated temperature. Why did the A-87 not have it?... because they used heat from the exhaust manifold that was bolted directly to the intake. Except for the L16 pan's sump being further to the rear for clearance, the pans are all but identical. Edited September 9, 2009 by datzenmike Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted September 9, 2009 Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 Hi Ben, I wish I was making the progress that you are. Do not mean to hijack your thread but I have the same situation on my L20B head and intake. Water ports in the manifold and none in the head. So my question to Datzenmike is do I have to pull my head to drill the water port holes? I like the detailing of colors you used on your motor. I was thinking of doing it like you but was afraid it would be to many colors, so I did black and dull aluminum. I wish I would have used more colors as my motor is plain looking after seeing yours. :eek: When do you think you will finish this swap and be driving it again? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 9, 2009 Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 I would think just remove the intake carefully to save the gasket and drill it where the manifold left an impression in it. Most if not all of the chips will fall outside anyway. Hate to say it but maybe a very thin smear of rtv to help seal the manifold when re-assembling it. Quote Link to comment
pl521sss Posted September 9, 2009 Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 Another issue... existing exhaust flange doesn't allow for clearance around bottom of block and tranny That exhaust collector is not from 521 That might be the issue Or both the collector and Exhaust manifold Seems that there's several items that are particular to 521 only like the engine mounts, oil pan, exhaust collector..... Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted September 9, 2009 Report Share Posted September 9, 2009 Thanks Mike and Ben!!! This is what Ratsun is about, Learning. Quote Link to comment
hessianben Posted September 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2009 Thanks for the inspiration Ben. And thanks for documenting this! My l-18 has been sitting on the engine stand for a few months, it was destined for the 521... but, since it has some ol skool aftermarket bits, now I am thinking of stuffing it in the '59. Hey Adam, where did that two outlet coolent thingy come from? My l-18 has a hose with a bolt in it like Ben's. (And thanks for the hookup on the short driveshaft piece!) Also Ben, what did you wind up doing for the trans mount for that long tail? I know taking 2" out of the stock 521 mount will fit the dogleg 5-speed (70's 200sx), is it the same spacing for the non-dogleg 5-speed? That'd be pretty cool, so you could use either type 5-speed if you had the different length driveshafts. As I figure out what I'm going to have to do for the tranny mount, I'll for sure keep you posted Fischy! Quote Link to comment
hessianben Posted September 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2009 That exhaust collector is not from 521That might be the issue Or both the collector and Exhaust manifold Seems that there's several items that are particular to 521 only like the engine mounts, oil pan, exhaust collector..... Aaah, any idea what these are from...? Quote Link to comment
hessianben Posted September 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2009 Hi Ben, I wish I was making the progress that you are. Do not mean to hijack your thread but I have the same situation on my L20B head and intake. Water ports in the manifold and none in the head. So my question to Datzenmike is do I have to pull my head to drill the water port holes? I like the detailing of colors you used on your motor. I was thinking of doing it like you but was afraid it would be to many colors, so I did black and dull aluminum. I wish I would have used more colors as my motor is plain looking after seeing yours. :eek: When do you think you will finish this swap and be driving it again? Keep on it Charlie!! as far as the water ports.... if you live in a non-freezing type climate, you should be ok.... as the exhaust mani warms up, it should warm the intake temp and keep things even... as to when it will be driving again... I am counting on it being operational by JCCS. yes. Quote Link to comment
0.C. Posted September 12, 2009 Report Share Posted September 12, 2009 Hey Ben for some reason, I can't reply to ur PM. Can you measure how much the tranny mount needs to be shortened? So I can just go pick it up, weld it at the shop and drop it back. For the intake bypass hose. I bought a brass fitting from ACE hardware store, looks cleaner. Not mine though cuz I got mine out of an L28 and has like 4 holes on it. As for the lower water inlet, I made my own so I could bypass the heater hose. I would make one for you but I don't have access to a TIG welder anymore. I'm free this Sunday. So I'll call you in the morning so I can go over. Quote Link to comment
hessianben Posted September 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2009 Hey Ben for some reason, I can't reply to ur PM.Can you measure how much the tranny mount needs to be shortened? So I can just go pick it up, weld it at the shop and drop it back. For the intake bypass hose. I bought a brass fitting from ACE hardware store, looks cleaner. Not mine though cuz I got mine out of an L28 and has like 4 holes on it. As for the lower water inlet, I made my own so I could bypass the heater hose. I would make one for you but I don't have access to a TIG welder anymore. I'm free this Sunday. So I'll call you in the morning so I can go over. THAT'S KILLER! I'll be around in the morning- gotta leave for work at 2. hit up my cell- you still have it no? Quote Link to comment
0.C. Posted September 12, 2009 Report Share Posted September 12, 2009 THAT'S KILLER! I'll be around in the morning- gotta leave for work at 2. hit up my cell- you still have it no? Yeah, do you speak txt? Quote Link to comment
hessianben Posted September 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2009 Yeah, do you speak txt? that's like jive, or ebonics, right? yes. yes i do. Quote Link to comment
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