BACARDI_DWB Posted August 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 the front looks like its set up for a rear sump pan and if i remember correctly 90% of fords used front sump i forsee an issue here :rolleyes: I got my motor out of an 89 foxbody. it has a rear sump pan but i may still have to modify the oil-pan a little to make it fit. already thought of that one... thanks for looking out though!! heres the proofs.... Quote Link to comment
sdsurf Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 very impressive and all of it done in a not large side yard... Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 I got my motor out of an 89 foxbody. it has a rear sump pan but i may still have to modify the oil-pan a little to make it fit. already thought of that one... thanks for looking out though!! heres the proofs.... bitchin that makes life easier how much do you think you will need to modify it shouldnt be to bad by the looks of it Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted August 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 bitchin that makes life easier how much do you think you will need to modify it shouldnt be to bad by the looks of it no it shouldnt be too bad. i am just worried about closing the hood and clearing the rack and pinion. i may have to shave the oil pan a little bit in the mid section to clear, but we will see when i get there... Quote Link to comment
Madness Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 looking really good man :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted August 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 Here is today's work. everything is tack welded in place and I got one good weld down right before I ran out of wire:( Oh well...its coming along. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted August 25, 2009 Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 maaaaaaan its pics like that that make me want a welder bad keep up the good work Quote Link to comment
Madness Posted August 25, 2009 Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 just out of curiosity, why didn't you go under the bed mount with your subframe brackets? just curious Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted August 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 just out of curiosity, why didn't you go under the bed mount with your subframe brackets? just curious Because it would of been almost impossible to get the weld on the underside in the corner, this way i can have welds on both sides of the mount. also this way there was alot less grinding to make a perfect mate up to the underside of that mount. This way i just cut off the excess and weld away. Quote Link to comment
Bob3 Posted August 25, 2009 Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 just out of curiosity, why didn't you go under the bed mount with your subframe brackets? just curious Bart, He did it a lot like mine. I didn't want to leave the bed mount only supported on one side. You won't see it and it will be strong!:thumbup: Quote Link to comment
Bob3 Posted August 25, 2009 Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 Here is another view of how I did it. Quote Link to comment
Hyphy Posted August 25, 2009 Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 Nice welds. How much wider is your rear track width going to be over stock? Maybe I missed it somewhere. Just curious. My s13 rear sub wont be as easy. The mount points and suspension travel may require me to re-work the frame rails a little. We shall see. Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted August 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 Nice welds. How much wider is your rear track width going to be over stock? Maybe I missed it somewhere. Just curious. My s13 rear sub wont be as easy. The mount points and suspension travel may require me to re-work the frame rails a little. We shall see. I just measured it and its 7 inches wider hub to hub, but it should only stick out about 1/2 inch each side with the rims that are on there now. I plan on using a +45 offset rims to see if it will fit or not. If it still sticks out to much i will throw some flares on there and go with some wide meats. Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted August 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2009 Ok here is my issue: I have installed a power steering rack capable K member, but my power steering rack looks like this: I also have a non power steering rack and was wondering if it was possible to use the non power steering rack to fix the power steering rack or will I have to purchase a whole power steering rack in order to make this work. Here are some pics of the power steering rack: This side is not broke: just sitting weird: And here is the non power steering rack still on the miata in perfect condition spiderwebs.... Thanks guys for your help. I am pretty sure i can take apart the two and make one good power steering unit, but i just wanted to make sure. And yes i know i don't need power steering, but if i am going this far on a build I am going to have power steering and A/c if its possible. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted August 26, 2009 Report Share Posted August 26, 2009 I don't know if the tie rods are interchangeable between power and non, but you can just buy new tie rods for either. The inner tie rod "end" is the inner joint (inside the boot) and the entire rod. edit: According to rockauto there are different parts for power and non power, so I'd assume they're different. Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted August 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2009 I don't know if the tie rods are interchangeable between power and non, but you can just buy new tie rods for either. The inner tie rod "end" is the inner joint (inside the boot) and the entire rod. edit: According to rockauto there are different parts for power and non power, so I'd assume they're different. I looked it up and i see what you are talking about. I am going to do some surgery and see if the parts are the same first. If they are not i will order it up from rockauto. I hope messing with the rack is not to difficult. Quote Link to comment
ocurie Posted August 26, 2009 Report Share Posted August 26, 2009 Great work...keep it up.:D Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted August 26, 2009 Report Share Posted August 26, 2009 changing the inner tie rods on a rack is easy. Remember to use "lock-tite" on the rack end.:D Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted August 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2009 I didn't get to work long today on the truck but i feel i made pretty good progress, i only found one missed weld that i will have to tackle next time i have the welder out. I also have to finish the drilling and find some good grade 8 bolts to connect the rear subframe. oh yeah, i have found out when i am grinding, the wind doesn't want to blow. But when I pull out the welder, it doesn't want to stop....grrrr Heres the pics Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted August 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 (edited) Here is today's work. I would of got the drivers side arms done but it was WAY to hot outside to continue. I have to take the arms back apart and replace some pieces that are broke, worn and torn but i want to at least get it assembled for mock-up. Guess I am going to need a new one of these, and I know the castle nut is upside down. that lets me know that its not torqued and needs attention. Edited August 27, 2009 by BACARDI_DWB Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted August 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 Well I went back to work since it cooled down. Man was it hot out today: This picture is for anyone's reference, On the left is the power steering rack and pinion tie rod and on the right is the Manual steering rack tie rod end. Note they are different. Oil pan fit, time to modify!! Now the question is, should i send out the oil pan to Monster Miata in order to have them modify it how they modify most of their pans to fit? or do i do it myself. Here is what they make it look like: So should i have them do it? they charge $150, all i have to do is send it to them mine, This is a hard choice, I am getting pretty good at welding, but i don't know if my welds are oil tight. $150 seems a little pricey for an oilpan. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 weigh your options how much would it cost you to cut the pan and weld it like theres ? Quote Link to comment
BACARDI_DWB Posted August 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 weigh your options how much would it cost you to cut the pan and weld it like theres ? Well its definitely cheaper to do it myself. but i don't know how much I trust myself with welding it.... I have a few extra oil pans laying around maybe i should give it a try on another and see if my welding holds up. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 How cheap/easy is it to get another pan? If it is cheap/easy, then take a crack at it yourself. But...I will say that it is pretty challenging to get mig welds water tight on thin metal.....at least it was for me!!!! I modded another with the tig...much easier! If you have .023 wire....try it.....or go buy a small roll. I think you said you're running a bottle on your welder. You'll like being able to run a bead on sheet metal with that small wire :) Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 you dont trust yourself with welding an oilpan yet you do awsome work on subfame attatchment points you can do it man its only sheet metal at that even easier in my opinion Quote Link to comment
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